Alright, so today I decided to change oil, spark plugs and wires, as soon as I was done I let it sit for a while..so then after, I attempted to start it and it cranked but no start. However right before i decided to do all of the upgrades it was driving perfectly.. what do i do

 

Double check your plug wire orientation/ firing order.

 

#1 plug wire should go at roughly the 5 o'clock position when looking at the distributor from the front. Firing order is 18436572 and the plug wires go around clockwise.

 

Ok so far from what I've seen he swapped out one wire at a time before got there. The problem that we are having now is that there is no power getting to the fuel pump. So we made a opening in the trunk and cut the lines to the fuel hat and unplugged the harness cleaned the lines out, got a new fuel pump and both the filters because the filters where full of this black sand like crap and if you shake the pump parts rattle around inside so we put it all together and nothing happens. We can here the relay clicking and all the fuses are good so what else could it be?

 

Is there power getting to the pump? Just because the relay clicks and the fuses are good doesn't mean the pump is getting power.

 

*status update*
Tested fuel pump assembly and pigtail from the fuel hat, it is fully operational, fuel is moving to the injectors when on a better charger but not when I connect it to the harness, when connected there is no power to the pump. As for the fuel pump relay, when I cycle the ignition I hear a click but I heard the same click when I had the relay disconnected. In that case how do I test the relay and also test the injectors

 

Upon further investigation, I have found a black wire with a male single spike connector that is disconnected coming out of a large hose of wires coming from the dash, wire is located near the underside of the engine on the passenger side next to the rear of the engine, I cannot seem to find what it connects to

 

When you say there is no power to the harness....are you referring to 12 volt positive? Are you using a meter to test for power at connection to fuel pump? Black wires are usually ground connections in reference to loose wire.Make sure that you are missing 12 volt positive at harness and not missing a ground to fuel pump.12 volt positive AND ground(12 volt negative) should be checked for at harness to find out which is missing.Its possible you have 12 positive at harness.. but have lost the ground supply to pump

 

This is the wire, but i cant find where it goes

 

Looks like the connector to the knock sensor which is in range of the wire length.I believe it is either just above or below starter with sensor screwed into engine block.I don't think this signals your computer to control fuel pump action..but its possible. maybe someone else will jump in and help out.Re-connect to sensor and see what happens.You may need a mirror to locate sensor in block.

 

I don't see that it's listed if this is tpi or tbi. Regardless jumpering the orange to great wire of the ops will power the fp. The ecm controls the relay for a 2 second koeo prime. As you can see c is ecm power to control the relay.
B is a ground. A is power to the pump e is higher current power to the relay that when activated goes out a.
The connector could be ks or secondary fan switch on the cylinder head between cyl 6 & 8.