What is the current fix for this ancient problem?
New starter.
Works fine when engine cold.
After driving and engine is hot, starter barely turns and
won't start the engine.
Suggestions?

 

I got a Powermaster mini starter. So tiny! Solved my problem completely. No heat shields or anything. Summit, etc have house brands too....

Apparently the later model LT1 starters are somewhat of a "factory" mini starter although they aren't as small as the aftermarket stuff.

GD

 

^^^This^^^^ times A BILLION!!

Yes at least some of the LT1 starters are also gear-reduction. Not sure about the B-body ones.

 

Double check your timing, because it may be a little too far advanced......it's probably the starter.

Good luck

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...987-350-a.html

 

Reads like the problem is in the starter motor. Or maybe lack of a good heat shield. If you don't want to buy a new starter a couple of things you can try here.

Install a functional heat shield on the starter. No, not a wrap - no, no, no. Something that mounts to the starter in only 2 or 3 locations and has an air gap between the starter every where else - no matter how small. This is a must have if you're running headers with a stock starter.

Next you could disassemble the starter motor to clean the rotor/commutator slots, install new brushes (if needed) and make sure you use high temp grease to regrease the end bushings/bearings.

Hope this can help and good luck.

 

I have experienced the same thing in my old G20. I finally got wise and used a Vortec truck gear drive starter. It would start a hot engine with 18° initial advance without even thinking about it. The trucks use a 168 tooth flexplate. I think most cars are 153 tooth. I believe the LT1 starter matches the cars. Almost the same thing except a different bolt pattern to match the car flywheel/flexplate. The factory gear drives are tougher and more reliable than the aftermarket mini starters. I pull mine off 1996-2002 4.3/305/350 junkyard Express vans or Suburbans, etc for less than $40.00 including the mounting bolts. If I ever change a flexplate in an automatic F-car it gets a truck flexplate and starter no questions asked. The bigger flywheel has more leverage on the crank and makes starting high compression/agressively timed engines a breeze.

 

Thanks, Guys!
Hey "Fast 355" (or anyone) turns out the 350 in my IROC
used a truck block - before mods.
Starter is on the "drivers side"; so inverted from the Stock IROC 350.
Is there a mini-starter for such?
C

 

Happy to report the suggested LT-1 starter - 1996 - was easy to
install and works every time! No matter how hot!
Thank you!
Chuck