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New CV joints

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Old Jan 1, 2002 | 03:51 PM
  #1  
bklucas12's Avatar
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From: Syracuse, NY, USA
New CV joints

My car is making a clicking noise when I turn, which obvisouly means my cv joints are gone, usualy I have this done but since I am so short on cash I might have to do it myself, how hard is it and what exactly do I do to change them
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Old Jan 1, 2002 | 03:53 PM
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Jza's Avatar
Jza
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From: Tulsa, OK
What kind of car is it?
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Old Jan 1, 2002 | 04:08 PM
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From: Panama City, FL, USA
I thought only front wheel drive cars have cv joints or some 4 wheel drive trucks?
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Old Jan 1, 2002 | 04:17 PM
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From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Right... our cars don't have CV joints.

Clicking from the front wheels of these cars usually means it's front wheel bearing time.
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Old Jan 1, 2002 | 04:21 PM
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From: Wilmington NC
Car: C1500
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.73
If you are talking about your Bird it doesn't have CV joints. Tell us a little more about this noise and maybe we can figure out what it is.
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Old Jan 1, 2002 | 05:16 PM
  #6  
Grim Reaper's Avatar
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From: The Bone Yard
Car: Death Mobile
Engine: 666 c.i.
Originally posted by RB83L69
...our cars don't have CV joints.
Damn!
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Old Jan 1, 2002 | 05:26 PM
  #7  
RB83L69's Avatar
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From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Actually I put some in my car once, but I installed them improperly... into the back seat floorboard. They were incapable of performing to their fullest potential there however, so I put them into some other car.
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Old Jan 1, 2002 | 05:41 PM
  #8  
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From: The Bone Yard
Car: Death Mobile
Engine: 666 c.i.
Originally posted by RB83L69
Actually I put some in my car once, but I installed them improperly... into the back seat floorboard. They were incapable of performing to their fullest potential there however, so I put them into some other car.
Can't you use them to tune the speed holes? Speed holes are great for lightening our cars, but they have to be at the right spot. It not, then you need the CV Joint to compensate...or did I miss something?
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Old Jan 1, 2002 | 07:42 PM
  #9  
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From: Costal Alabama
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 350, ZZ4 equivalent
Transmission: Pro-Built Road Race 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 Dana 44

HAHAHAHAHA
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Old Jan 3, 2002 | 05:59 PM
  #10  
bklucas12's Avatar
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From: Syracuse, NY, USA
Yeah, my wheels are making clicking noises, its wheel bearing time I thought we had cv joints, my mistake but anyways how hard is it to change these? people asked for what kind of car I had, but it was in my sig I dont understand
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Old Jan 3, 2002 | 08:29 PM
  #11  
8Mike9's Avatar
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From: Oakdale, Ca
Car: 89 IrocZ
Engine: L98-ish
Transmission: 700R4
Well, beings that you asked about CV joints, many probably thought you were talking about a different vehicle than your F-Body.

As mentioned before, could be wheel bearings. Could also be brake HW rattling.

Best thing to do is lift the frontend up and shake a few things and see if you can find where it's coming from.
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Old Jan 3, 2002 | 10:32 PM
  #12  
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From: Syracuse, NY, USA
Its def my ball bearings, when I turn the wheel it makes a very distinct clicking noise, having experience with cars I can diagnois problems I just in the past let other people fix them which I can not to now, it was my mistake I didnt know if our cars had cv joints or bearings, so how would you replace them? the bearings?
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Old Jan 4, 2002 | 10:43 AM
  #13  
8Mike9's Avatar
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From: Oakdale, Ca
Car: 89 IrocZ
Engine: L98-ish
Transmission: 700R4
You'll need to remove the wheels,

Pull the discbrake HW off, wire it up so that the caliper are not hannging on the brake lines.

Pull the dust cover. Pull the cotter pin on the castle nut, and unscrew the nut.

Pull the rotor assy. off. The outer bearing will fall out into your hand.

Pry out the old seal off the inside and the inner portion of the inner bearing will fall out.

Lay the rotor with the wheel studs up, supported off the bench a few inches and take a drift punch and knock the outer race for the inner bearing out.

Knock in the new outer race.

Pack the bearings in grease, install the inner bearing and the inner seal and slide it over the spindle.

Put in the outer bearing assy and install the castle nut.

Seat the nut to 20-25 ft/lbs, then back it off until the first hole lines up for the cotter pin (use new cotter pins).

Intsall the dust cover, brake HW.
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Old Jan 4, 2002 | 01:54 PM
  #14  
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From: Greenville S.C.
Car: 87 Grand National
Engine: 3.8 SFI Turbo
Transmission: BRF 200R4
you might need outer tie rods. Mine were clicking bad when I turned, so I bought Moog tie rods and this took care of the problem.
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