ede

i did a engine R&R on my truck, chevy 1/2 ton 4.3 m5 4x4. it hasd a safety switch that doesn't allow it to start without the clutch being depressed. when i went to start it for the first time after the R&R the clutch felt like there was nothing there untill a couple of inches off the floor then it got hard and would go no more. this wasn't enough to let the starter engage. i had the slave clyinder off but nothing disconected. it was too late to look into it so i have no idea what maybe the problem. i was wondering if anyone else has had a similar problem and if so what was it? thanks for your help.

RB83L69

Sounds like something is misaligned inside the bell housing, keeping the throwout from being able to move as far as it's supposed to...

Zepher

iTrader: (1)

I had a problem with my clutch switch, so I just bypassed it.
Is your clutch on the truck hydraulic or cable?
If it's hydraulic, it sounds like it needs fluid.
I had a similiar problem on my 86 Trans Am when I changed the slave cylinder. After the swap and putting in the fluid there was no pressure in the pedal.
I was going to replace the master clutch cylinder when all of a sudden I got pressure in the clutch.

I would just fill it with fluid and slowly pump the pedal with the cap off of the resevoir. If you pump hard it will spill out.

Vader

Ede,

Happy New Year. Been busy?

It sounds like your clutch is typical. If you had the slave disconnected, the system got into a hydraulic lock and wouldn't travel any farther. At least you know the master is O.K.

The reason is that there is usually a light spring in the slave to help extend it, or actually keep it from retracting all the way. This overcomes the hyraulic action when the cylinder is released, and is what helps maintain fluid level in the slave as the clutch begins to wear and the arm travel and at-rest positions change slightly.

I'm guessing that the light spring had already had the slave nearly fully extended, and that the minimal travel you were able to achieve was the master cylinder closing up on the slight taper at the rear end of the bore (which allows more fluid to be drawn in) and the little bit of copmpression that you were able to build in the system. I'll bet that if you reinstall the slave, or retract it manually so that the actuator rod is retracted, the master cylinder will travel far enough to allow you to start.

BTW - You're getting pretty familiar with those 262's aren't you? How's the 3/4 350 doing?