Changing Motor Mounts
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Joined: May 2015
Posts: 341
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From: Eastern Canada NS
Car: 1987 IROC z
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R
Axle/Gears: POSI 3:27s
Changing Motor Mounts
Car is my 1987 IROC with the 350 TPI.
Thinking this is pretty straight forward. I tried the search function here and didn't find any info which I found odd. So to YouTube I went and found this video.
Seems pretty straight forward but wondering if you guys have any reccomendations on what type to purchase?
Thanks.
Thinking this is pretty straight forward. I tried the search function here and didn't find any info which I found odd. So to YouTube I went and found this video.
Seems pretty straight forward but wondering if you guys have any reccomendations on what type to purchase?
Thanks.
Re: Changing Motor Mounts
Not that hard as long as you can safety raise car and motor enough to unbolt and remove frame clam shell mounts. Use best quality inserts or OE mount if you can find them. They have been discontinued for along time.
Joe
Joe
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Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 341
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From: Eastern Canada NS
Car: 1987 IROC z
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R
Axle/Gears: POSI 3:27s
Re: Changing Motor Mounts
Yes I have a Low profile Jack, jack stands and lumber.
I'll verify tomorrow if is the motor mounts for sure.
Thanks
I'll verify tomorrow if is the motor mounts for sure.
Thanks
Supreme Member
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,255
Likes: 54
From: Lincoln, NE.
Car: '87 IROC
Engine: 5.7 Vortec w/ factory TPI
Transmission: WC T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.45 Posi
Re: Changing Motor Mounts
When I replaced mine the AC delcos were running around $180 a pair so I went with the Energy Suspensions for around $50 a pair.
Not quite sure why the guy in the video removed his spring... If you have a long box end wrench you can get them out with a little effort. However when you put the nuts back in put a piece of tape on the wrench to hold the nut in place and it will go a lot quicker.
Not quite sure why the guy in the video removed his spring... If you have a long box end wrench you can get them out with a little effort. However when you put the nuts back in put a piece of tape on the wrench to hold the nut in place and it will go a lot quicker.
Thread Starter
Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 341
Likes: 5
From: Eastern Canada NS
Car: 1987 IROC z
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R
Axle/Gears: POSI 3:27s
Re: Changing Motor Mounts
So looks like he used the spring compression tool, then took out the control
Arm bolt to get access that way.
JHarrison Are you saying you don't have to go in from where the Control arm is bolted onto?
Arm bolt to get access that way.
JHarrison Are you saying you don't have to go in from where the Control arm is bolted onto?
Supreme Member
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,255
Likes: 54
From: Lincoln, NE.
Car: '87 IROC
Engine: 5.7 Vortec w/ factory TPI
Transmission: WC T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.45 Posi
Re: Changing Motor Mounts
When I did mine I supported the car with stands towards the rear of the k member and let the front suspension hang down with both front wheels off. I removed the three motor mount bolts by sticking a longer box end wrench up into the lower control arm hole in the frame to access the nut. Turned the bolt from the top side of the mount using a ratcheting wrench. Repeated the process for the other two bolts.
When I went to bolt the new mount in, I held the nut in place on the end of the wrench by putting a piece of duct tape across it and started the bolt by hand. Repeat the process for the rest of the bolts.
It is not a fun job and I don't want to do it again anytime soon, but i don't have a spring compressor and it just seems like a huge hassle to gain a few inches.
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,972
Likes: 127
From: Los Angeles
Car: 1989 IROC Convertible
Engine: 350 TPI L98
Transmission: WC T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: Changing Motor Mounts
I borrowed a professional grade spring compressor from Auto Zone to compress the springs and get the control arms dropped and out of the way. I used a jack and a length of 2x4 to lift the engine by the oil pan to get clearance. Not a fun job but do-able. Don't expect to go to fast and you won't get frustrated. The first side took me 2 hours, the other side took me 30 minutes.
I suppose one could take a long box end, like a distributor wrench, and bend it around to hold the bolts and get it around the control arm without taking the arm out. A good idea would be to get nuts that have the captive washer on them, that way they would sit in the box end without falling through.
That all being said, I can see it both ways. I do not like using spring compressors and working so close to them. Those springs are really loaded but the extra access makes it nice and you can change the control arm bushings while they are down. If you are going to use a spring compressor use a good one.
I suppose one could take a long box end, like a distributor wrench, and bend it around to hold the bolts and get it around the control arm without taking the arm out. A good idea would be to get nuts that have the captive washer on them, that way they would sit in the box end without falling through.
That all being said, I can see it both ways. I do not like using spring compressors and working so close to them. Those springs are really loaded but the extra access makes it nice and you can change the control arm bushings while they are down. If you are going to use a spring compressor use a good one.
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Thread Starter
Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 341
Likes: 5
From: Eastern Canada NS
Car: 1987 IROC z
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R
Axle/Gears: POSI 3:27s
Re: Changing Motor Mounts
Good tips guys. And I like the thought of changing the control arm bushings as well.
I work away from home for 2 weeks at a time and leave tomorrow. So ill order the parts and have them ready for next days off.
I work away from home for 2 weeks at a time and leave tomorrow. So ill order the parts and have them ready for next days off.




