Engine Advice
#1
Engine Advice
Hey guys, I have an 85 Trans Am project that I'm working on and I had originally bought a POS 350 to get the car running/moving. As expected, that engine didn't last long (at least the rod bearings didn't). Anyways, I'm on a budget and trying to find the smartest and least expensive way to give it the engine it deserves. I'm not sure if I want to just go with a Blueprint 350, or build from scratch. I have 2 and 4 bolt main blocks sitting around, and I was wondering if anyone had any idea what a machine shop would charge (ballpark) for going .030 over, cleaning and surfacing the block, and basically freshening it up for a build. Thanks!
#3
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Re: Engine Advice
Machine work on a block should be around $300 - 400.
Pay acoupla extra ¢ to have it bored & honed with a torque plate. Makes a SIGNIFICANT improvement in ring seal.
Flat top pistons, Vortec heads, and a Comp XE262 cam will give you a real strong runner. Upgrade the valve springs to LS6 beehives http://www.texas-speed.com/p-1383-ls...od-to-550.aspx with Comp 787 retainers.
Pay acoupla extra ¢ to have it bored & honed with a torque plate. Makes a SIGNIFICANT improvement in ring seal.
Flat top pistons, Vortec heads, and a Comp XE262 cam will give you a real strong runner. Upgrade the valve springs to LS6 beehives http://www.texas-speed.com/p-1383-ls...od-to-550.aspx with Comp 787 retainers.
#4
Re: Engine Advice
Thank you! I have an intake and carb that I was planning on using, but the intake is not Vortec style. I realize that Vortec heads are the best cheap heads out there, but do you think it might be worth it to use the money I would be spending on an intake and carb to upgrade to some better heads that fit my intake properly? Side note: that cam has good reviews, and seems like a good option. What lifters and push rods would you recommend to add?
#5
Re: Engine Advice
What about going with a full top end kit? Seems like it has everything I'd want at a reasonable price. And hey, it even comes with a free carb!
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-2022
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-2022
#7
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Re: Engine Advice
Get a different intake, use the carb you have.
Use the lifters that the mfr recommends. Not least because, they may not warranty the cam otherwise, if it fails.
If your blocks are roller equipped, good stock lifters would be fine. In that case of course you'd need a different cam; similar profile, but of course, a roller instead. XR264HR for example.
Use the lifters that the mfr recommends. Not least because, they may not warranty the cam otherwise, if it fails.
If your blocks are roller equipped, good stock lifters would be fine. In that case of course you'd need a different cam; similar profile, but of course, a roller instead. XR264HR for example.
Last edited by sofakingdom; 11-11-2017 at 07:14 AM.
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#8
Re: Engine Advice
Got it. I'm at school so I won't be able to tear down the engine I've got sitting around just yet but I will report back. So that covers cam, lifters, heads, valves, intake, and carb. Any recommendations for a rebuild kit? I see they vary in price considerably and I don't know quality/reputable brands. Or should I buy pistons separately? And I'm thinking one of my 2 stock cranks will be sufficient after cleaning it up a bit, correct?
#9
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Re: Engine Advice
I wouldn't buy a "kit" necessarily; I'd pick the pistons I want, the gaskets I want, etc.
Price depends on contents. Typically, you get, AT BEST, what you pay for; but it's usually somewhat downhill from that. So if you pay "the least", you get, AT BEST, ... I'll let you do the math.
Moral of the story: DO NOT buy engine parts, or machine work, from the low bidder. Choose a level of parts and attention to machining detail that fits your goals, and pay what it takes to get THAT level of quality. Don't pay Pro Stock $$$$$ for a motor that's going in a 2.73 gear car with stock exhaust; and don't pay "fleet" price for a motor that you want to max out.
No idea about your cranks... too dark out to see them from here. If they're stock cast cranks I'd suggest replacing it. Aftermarket cranks are not that much more ¢¢¢ than working up a possibly metal-fatigued stocker.
Price depends on contents. Typically, you get, AT BEST, what you pay for; but it's usually somewhat downhill from that. So if you pay "the least", you get, AT BEST, ... I'll let you do the math.
Moral of the story: DO NOT buy engine parts, or machine work, from the low bidder. Choose a level of parts and attention to machining detail that fits your goals, and pay what it takes to get THAT level of quality. Don't pay Pro Stock $$$$$ for a motor that's going in a 2.73 gear car with stock exhaust; and don't pay "fleet" price for a motor that you want to max out.
No idea about your cranks... too dark out to see them from here. If they're stock cast cranks I'd suggest replacing it. Aftermarket cranks are not that much more ¢¢¢ than working up a possibly metal-fatigued stocker.