Hi Guys ~ I've been lurking but and this is my first time logging in for awhile. Unfortunately, I need assistance. Is there anyone here that can assist with a no-start or possibly recommend a mobile mechanic in Kent WA?

I usually like to do my own work but I'd rather someone else just take care of it and get-er-done without endless troubleshooting on my part. Most obvious conclusion is that water got into dist cap but I thought that would have dried out by now (after 2 weeks warm weather).

Issue: I hosed down my 87 IROC pretty aggressively a couple of weeks ago (including the windshield cowl area). Afterwards, I started the car and it immediately sputtered, knocked, and died. It turns over but won't start. Gas is good but haven't checked much else.

Anyway, let me know. I've got cashola and/or interesting trades =)

Cheers, Jeff

 

:::update:::

Took the dist cap off and it was bone dry (as expected). Visually looks ok, as do the wires. Wire brushed and reassembled but still no luck.

Before the wash, the car was running perfectly with no signs of problems. After the wash, the car just suddenly had a hard time running and stalled, all over the course of about 30 seconds.

Any ideas from the experts?

 

Have you checked for spark?

 

Yep , start with the basics . You say you sprayed water on it and it ran like crap & died . Well , the distributor being dry is no proof that you didn't , for instance , destroy the ignition coil due to water incursion and the internal arcing that would result . Ditto for the ICM , if the coil became saturated and internally shorted due to the water getting in , that coil most certainly would draw excess current in it's shorted condition , and of course the ICM being what drives the coil it very well could have gotten damaged trying to supply that excess current the shorted coil was drawing . Yes there are ohm meter checks for the coil and the ICM but to be honest those are two components that can check OK with the meter but still fail under actual operating conditions , remember the meter checks the resistance with it's internal 9 volt battery when in actual operation the coil is subject to the forces of the 40 thousand odd volts it produces to make a voltage pulse big enough to jump the .060" gap of the spark plugs .

With all that said , if your electrical troubleshooting skills are lacking , before you pay someone else mad $$$ , try a new coil AND a new ICM , and my bet it that it'll fire right up for just the cost of those two parts , minus the labor charge of a "mobile mechanic" (Whose labor bill will be more than the cost of the coil & ICM) ......

 

Check all the fuses. Then check for spark. My vote would be for a bad ICM also.

GD

 

I would go with the ignition control module as they're known to good bad just looking at them from 40 feet away! lol. If you have an HEI distributor, pull the coil out as well and check the spring and under it for burned marks as that's common as well. While you're at it, look under the cap at the points and make sure that they aren't corroding or have a build up on them. Most times, the issue is the ignition somewhere. Whether it be the ignition coil, ignition control module, or the spark plug wires or boots. Water and electricity don't play nicely. If you can get the car to run even a little bit, try running it at night and take a spray bottle of water and spray down the wires and you'll probably see a nice little electrical (like lightning only a lot smaller) show if you have older wires.

 

update:
No change / still not starting after changing both the ICM and coil. I'm very much at a loss now. Any other ideas as to what could have gone wrong after washing the car?

Thanks guys
J ~

 

You should attempt communication with the ECM . Either using a scan tool or with the paperclip method.
GD

 

:::Update and Final Resolution:::

After some more testing I was able to rule out a couple of things to the point that I was "pretty sure" of the problem. Not wanting to get my hands dirty on this one, I called a mobile mechanic that is experienced in older cars. I told him the symptoms but not what I've already tested.

The mobile mechanic got out his meter, a paper clip and a screwdriver and started testing a few things. He seems to know exactly what and where to check and in about 4 minutes conclusively determined the problem.

It turns out that this had ABSOLUTELY NOTHING to do with washing the car and possibly getting anything wet. Instead, it was just STUPID COINCIDENCE that the FUEL PUMP chose this exact moment to retire from service.

In speedy fashion (6 hours) he dropped the back end, fuel tank, and replaced the fuel pump and put it all back together again. As a bonus, there were no leftover parts! and he managed to secure a few things in the exhaust.

$250 labor + parts and all is well again.