Clutch Fork Replacement
Clutch Fork Replacement
Has anyone here replaced their clutch for on their T5. I'm pulling my transmission tonight, and planning on rebuilding it to hold up for a little while at least behind my 355. I don't want to get it all together and my clutch fork go out. What has everyone else used when replacing it. Do you go to the dealership and get antoher or has anyone tried the Lakewood one out of Summit. I have one somewhere around the garage. Wanted to know if anyone else has used it. Thanks in advance.
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From: GO PACK GO
Car: 83Z28 HO
Engine: Magnacharged Dart Little M 408
Transmission: G Force 5 speed
Axle/Gears: Moser 9" w/Detroit Trutrac
Not too sure what you're asking...
If the Fork is not bent, and the pivot is not worn out - (the pin that screws into the casing), then keep the stock one. I personally haven't heard of anyone wearing a fork out myself.
Whether the car is a 2.8 V-6, or a 400 small block, it shouldn't matter IMHO.
If the Fork is not bent, and the pivot is not worn out - (the pin that screws into the casing), then keep the stock one. I personally haven't heard of anyone wearing a fork out myself.
Whether the car is a 2.8 V-6, or a 400 small block, it shouldn't matter IMHO.
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From: Readsboro, VT
Car: 85 IROC-Z / 88 GTA
Engine: 403 LSx (Pending) / 355 Tuned Port
Transmission: T56 Magnum (Pending) / T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 / ?
I bought a bunch of T5 parts from some clown online and the clutch fork he sent me had 1 of the throwout bearing tabs broken off. 
When you pull the tranny out, pull the bellhousing off and just pull the fork out. The only thing holding it into place when the tranny is the tabs around the pivot ball.

When you pull the tranny out, pull the bellhousing off and just pull the fork out. The only thing holding it into place when the tranny is the tabs around the pivot ball.
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From: Tallahassee, FL. USA
Car: 92 Camaro RS
Engine: 350 Crate Motor
Transmission: Tremec TKO
Axle/Gears: 10 Bolt 3.73
I've replaced mine.I think the Lakewood unit has different dimensions,as it was made for the traditional style bellhousing.Mine (1992)is hydraulic, I'm assuming yours is too.My fork and pivot stud were both pretty worn as they had about 215,000 miles on them.
Fork is #14075725, Pivot Stud is #14036058,Cost me $48.25 and $19.00 respectively,at a local dealership.Feels much smoother now.I'd only replace them if they're worn.I always install a roller pilot bearing as well.GM makes those too, but I usually just get the Moroso unit, part#41100 at Summit for about $20.
Oh, the rubber boot was cracked too,part#14075724, about $9.00.
-Rich-
Fork is #14075725, Pivot Stud is #14036058,Cost me $48.25 and $19.00 respectively,at a local dealership.Feels much smoother now.I'd only replace them if they're worn.I always install a roller pilot bearing as well.GM makes those too, but I usually just get the Moroso unit, part#41100 at Summit for about $20.
Oh, the rubber boot was cracked too,part#14075724, about $9.00.
-Rich-
Last edited by RICH92RS350; Jan 8, 2002 at 04:03 PM.
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