not sure how you're going to solve that with a CS 130. it looks like the stud is already clocked about as far as itll go.

what you can do is swap out to an AD244 style. its physically bigger and puts the stud farther away.

search on AD244 and you'll find a few threads on how to do the swap.

 

LT1 valve cover....... ?

 

 

Cool. You'll love the performance of that thing. You literally CAN'T get it to below 14.2 volts even at idle with every last accessory and system turned on full power.

 

I cant wait!! I always had a voltage drop problem.. Thanks so much for the help. It made it an easy find for once!!

 

 

those must be some seriously tall rocker covers...

 

They have spacers on the heads to convert the heads from center bolt to perimeter bolt valve covers. They are probably a 1/2" thick.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/icb-551542

 

I use the stud type with my cast tall covers and its tight but works. .

 

I had the same problem with a powermaster alternator on my new engine build.... you can actually rotate or "clock" an alternator, pull out the screws and rotate the rear housing.

 

Before starting a new thread can anyone clear up wiring the ad244? What I gather all i need to do is wire the S wire to the battery or fuse box?

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/electronics/755380-ad244-conversion-took-plunge.html

 

I Read that article. I was using a 1 wire alternator. So if i gather this right I can take the L wire add resister and loop it to the output and it should work?

 

no you need to have the sense wire (the L terminal) hooked up to the switched ignition that way the voltage regulator knows what output it needs to supply to keep the system voltage up over 14V

if you do it like you're suggesting you're likely to see something like low 13V at the battery and possibly less than 13 on the ignition side.