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Tech / General EngineIs your car making a strange sound or won't start? Thinking of adding power with a new combination? Need other technical information or engine specific advice? Don't see another board for your problem? Post it here!
I have a low mileage 90 l98. It was in my storage until for a few years and suffers from surface rust. Valley and crank are all rusty.
Im not sure if it would hone out so I’m thinking .030 over.
Im only looking to make about 400hp at the crank.
parts I’m looking to purchase sealed power h360cp30
pistons. Scatt 9000 crank 935050l , recondition my rods.
pro race 21266 balancer. T56 93-97 flywheel unknown part number or manufacturer yet.
what I do have is a lunati bare bones cam http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=2607
afr 180 heads 64cc and comp 1.52 rr.
does this sound like a good combination or am I being to cheap on the part selection.
As far as the timing cover I know the pointer won’t line up. A side mounted pointer can you still read it with a serpentine setup. If not looks like timing tape will do. https://skipwhiteperformance.com/cat...t-21266_87969/
Last edited by Tuned Performance; Mar 4, 2019 at 02:19 PM.
Why not just start with a used Vortec? I got a pull out for $200 loaded in my truck. That gives you crank and PM rods and a block you probably don't have to bore.....
The 383 isn't worth the effort IMO. The increase in torque is the biggest benefit - HP increase is often single digits. Torque you already have from the TPI.
I live in a very rural area and the nearest junk yard is 2 hrs away. I might as well use what I have. A machine shop is only a hour away. I’m going to use my t ram and I assume over tpi I will loose some low end torque that I think a 383 could give me.
I just don’t want to be disappointed with the power output of a build.
Doing a 383 will cause me to buy a expensive flywheel. I do have a lt1 t56 flywheel already.
Im very torn at this point my original plan was just do a hone and ring/bearing job on the 350 and use a set of 113s I have that are ported and machined for higher lift to use the lunati cam. I’d like to do something this summer as soon as the snow melts off. I think I’ll. Hold a engine run stand as well. It will be awhile until I can install my build in my first gen and I don’t want the rust issue to happen again.
I have a 40ft shipping container with the engine in it and it was covered with bags and 80/90 w oil and still rusted.
i fear another 383 I have that was a fresh rebuild but it’s a 2 pc rear main seal might be toast as well.
I have retrofit roller lifter and comp 276 cam I was going to use on that engine and stick it in my truck.
I’m not sure what centerforce part number for there iron flywheel.
But I contacted spec and there sc85s comes with a weight kit for 383s.Or
Steel Flywheel is 460350 a external balance weight added to the flywheel the kit is 560222
its reasonably priced at $400. And arp flywheel bolts 330-2801 or maybe it’s arp 200-2807.
Last edited by Tuned Performance; Mar 6, 2019 at 11:22 AM.
Think the cam head package is better suited to 355 but will work good in a 383 as well. With the stroke i would lean towards 195 heads and port the t ram as needed to support
Any piston suggestions for a 355 . I have used the sealed power pistons before zero issues and great price. Tons of meat to port the t ram. I just don’t want to hurt it’s value. I might have already by glass beading it. It was in horrible shape when I bought it.
Last edited by Tuned Performance; Mar 6, 2019 at 12:01 PM.
Back from spec : It weighs 26 as well. Yeh, their tolerances aren't as tight and I'm fairly
sure they do not include a race bolt kit with theirs... No need for a 30
lb fw, too.
I think your right about the heads being able to breathe on a 383. I don’t think I can afford 195s
Yes mallory metal is expensive but not always used. It depends on the counter weights and piston rod weights. May need to remove metal instead of add mallory. But it generally isnt hard to balance a crank. Especially a 383 using 6” rods
those pistons can be fine, just note they are deep in the hole depending on deck height
if its decked to 9” they would be .012 in the hole. If stock deck at 9.025 then .037 in the hole
they seem pricey for non forged tho
You don't need that, the crank come setup for internal balance if you order it that way.
That gets expensive, I contacted scatt and they want $222 for a balance and $103 per slug.
any chance you have a felpro 1205 gasket laying around that you can hold up against a t-ram ?
