It is now time to remove the useless, ugly smog pump. I've read the how to on belt re routing and it seems pretty straight forward to me. Could I hear from someone who has done it using the recommended Dayco 968k6 belt? My car is 92 Z28 305. Also how does the smog pump come out? I can see the bolts on the pulley. And what about the plumbing on the top passenger side of the engine? I'm kinda a novice wrench, but I want to get this done, any help is greatly appreciated.

GM makes a replacement pully. Its something like this:
http://www.thirdgenranch.com/catalog...2f93848b9ba07d
There might be a cheaper place to get it but its an actual delco part.

96.5 in belt and you should find a write up on here somewhere how to re route it. I'd spray some oil on those smog bolts i stripped one out trying to remove mine but I've had luck taking them off every other Third gen I've owned no problems.

Thanks for the replies. So I take the three bolts out of the pulley and then re route the belt the way it's shown in the how to section of thirdgen.org. Does the whole pump then come out somehow? I don't see how that is held in place.

Iirc there are two bolts that hold in the pump. Upper and lower. I think there torx.

'Funny how they did that on the later years. On the '84 L-69, the air pump is driven by its own belt, so none of the other accessories are affected if it's removed...

I just spent a few hours yesterday working on deleting/removing my Smog Pump from my 88 Iroc with a serpentine set up and wanted to share my procedures. From a scale to 1 to 10 it was about a 3. It wasnt that difficult at all. After looking at the wiring diagram I found that on the whole system there is only 2 digital outputs from the ECM with no inputs. As a result there were no fault codes induced based on the work below.

Thanks Thirdgen viewers/writers!

REMOVAL:

1. Loosen (3) 10mm bolts that hold the pulley to the pump while leaving the belt on. The belt (stock 98.0" effective length) was used to hold tension against the pulley.
2. Remove the serpentine belt with a 1/2" breaker bar.
3. Disconnect the Air Select Valve and Air Diverter Valve electrical connectors.
4. On the back side of the smog pump there are (2) 10mm bolts that hold the tube supplying air to the control valve. Remove these.
5. Remove (2) 10mm bolts that connect the supply air tube to the control valve.
6. Remove the rubber hoses used to deliver air to the catalytic converter and the air tubes supporting the exhaust headers.
7. With the control valve free remove the supply air tube and control valve.
8. Remove (2) T45 bolts that hold the smog pump to the front drive accessory bracket.
9. With the smog pump free'd fish it down and across to the driver side and drop it between the power steering pump and steering gear box.

INSTALLATION:

1. Reinstall the (2) T45 bolts. Keep in mind that they are different lengths.
2. Remove the aluminum supply air tube that is routed to the catalytic converter. From the factory there is a bolt that that connects it to the head. This will need to be removed. I took a set of bolt cutters and cut the tube in half to assist with removal.
3. Cap the catalytic converter supply air tube with a rubber cap and hose clamp.
4. Wrap electrical tape around the Air Select Valve and Air Diverter Valve electrical connectors to provide a water tight seal. Do not clip them off.
5. Zip tie the electrical connectors to the support bar that connects the accessory drive bracket to the head.
6. Leave the air check valves in place supporting the left and right bank headers and the crossover air pipe routed behind the engine. Use a rubber cap to black off the plumbing.
7. Install new ( 96.8" effective length; part number Dayco 5060968 6PK2460) in the same routing as before.

Acceptable ranges of belt to tensioner

IMO, the best way is with a smog pump delete pully...............

Here's mine on LB9 1991 no A/C (now 383) with new belt ACDelco 935K6... (edited: forgot to mention I have underdrive pulleys, that's why using 93.5" belt, other wise you have to use 96.8")

Wait....there's a valve cover on the passenger side? I did not know that.

Do you still have all the smog components? I would like to buy them from you. I’m in California and just got a z28 with no smog parts smh

I've heard the myth, but still have my doubts.

I have everything but the tubes from the manifold. I have ceramic coated edlebrock headers with the tubes

Is that a first system? Can you take a couple pictures of your whole engine bay? I’m putting a first on right now and deleting things

Yes it is:
Here's the thread: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/engi...st-intake.html