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Tech / General EngineIs your car making a strange sound or won't start? Thinking of adding power with a new combination? Need other technical information or engine specific advice? Don't see another board for your problem? Post it here!
For all of you who followed my other “hopeless” posts, here is an UPDATE:
Shes at a different shop now. They gave her a crank, and the oil pressure was normal for cold crank. She didn’t want to stay running though. There was a gasping air sound, and she “hunted” a lot.
New shop removed her plenum(?) and found a kinked air hose. Oddly, they said there was “no sign” of previous shop having replaced her head gasket.
They checked her plugs and found them fouled (although previous shop had supposedly replaced them). They also gave her new plug wires.
Then she idled correctly after that. Her oil pressure started out normal from cold and there was NO KNOCKING from the engine.
However, when she got up to temp, oil pressure fell to 10-12, and they cut her off.
From there, they suggested installing a high pressure oil pump.
Also, one of the mechanics wanted to “flush her engine with diesel fuel”.
(I vetoed both of these ideas.)
I asked them to check her oil and filter for any signs of metal and/or dangerous funk.
They did that today and said that her oil smelled like gasoline, but they didn’t see any metal or debris. They also said it was very thin.
So they put 20/50?? 4 quarts, and 1 quart Lucas. Oil pressure did increase a little at cold start, and ran around 18 at temp...which was far better than the 3 she was last week.
So I’ve read all the posts I can find regarding this, and I’m concluding that the heavier oil plus Lucas is probably no more than a band aid fix.
I “could” have them replace the oil pump (not high pressure), but again, the general consensus is that it’s much more likely to be an engine problem, not oil pump.
Am I thinking right on this??
I would be overjoyed if a few parts fixed everything, but if it doesn’t, then I’ve spent 25% of engine replacement money already.
Also...if you’ve read my other post on idiot lights...I’m in the process of changing cluster bulbs. One of the blown bulbs is my CEL. So there’s no telling what codes she has to offer, but I guess I won’t know till I see what she blinks. No one seems to have an actual scanner that will work with her and I HATE that because I’m betting she has a lot to tell. Alas, I’ll have to use the paper clip.
Why would her oil smell like gasoline? I noticed it smelled that way even before her head gasket was fixed.
One more time, my 3rd Gen friends. Anything you could offer would be great! You guys are awesome and I’m eternally grateful!!!!
Honestly, if the engine shows no signs of metal in the filter or oil, and the oil smelled of gasoline - I would replace the fuel injectors, get the CEL working, address any further fuel injection issues, put 20w50 in it and drive it. Sounds like it's fine and probably had really thin oil and insufficient pressure because of it. Assuming no metal in the oil, I see no reason to go any farther than changing the oil, verifying the hot idle pressure is back where it should be and address the fuel injection problems that led to fuel dilution.
Honestly, if the engine shows no signs of metal in the filter or oil, and the oil smelled of gasoline - I would replace the fuel injectors, get the CEL working, address any further fuel injection issues, put 20w50 in it and drive it. Sounds like it's fine and probably had really thin oil and insufficient pressure because of it. Assuming no metal in the oil, I see no reason to go any farther than changing the oil, verifying the hot idle pressure is back where it should be and address the fuel injection problems that led to fuel dilution.
GD
The mechanic told me that the oil smelled like gas because the oil was too thin. But that didn’t make much sense to me!
What fuel injectors would you recommend using and where do I get them??
Before replacing the injectors have them check the fuel pressure regulator . If the diaphragm of the FPR develops a leak it can cause the exact same symptom as leaking injector(s) will , a way too rich running engine that leaks fuel past the piston rings into the oil . Only after the FPR has been tested and deemed good should the injectors be suspect , the FPR is a $20 part VS a bit over $100 for the injectors .
and if it does end up needing injectors please look to TGO site sponsor "South Bay Fuel Injectors" for your new parts . He not only contributes financially to keep this site going , he spends time here helping people out with answers to questions about our car's fuel systems . He offers a discount to us TGO members so talk to him in person , tell him your from TGO , and he'll take good care of ya , Orangebird is running a set of South Bay injectors and literally purrs like a happy kitten .
What fuel injectors would you recommend using and where do I get them??
I've personally become a big fan of Rockauto.com over the past couple years. I did a quick search on there and it looks like a set of 6 runs just shy of $250 for Standard Motor brand, which I haven't had any issues with that particular brand of parts in the past.
They also show AC Delco injectors for more money of course, but only have 5 in stock.
For the oil smelling like gas, could be more than one thing but most likely is, one or more injector is leaking then the fuel that makes its way into the cylinder, and after sitting for even a few hours will make its way past the piston rings and into the oil.
a leaky injector can also cause the car to run rich and carbon foul the plugs, and also be a source of lost engine power.
In all honesty, if you have reasonable oil pressure and its not making any funny noises I'd personally replace the injectors, use a good quality 20w50 oil and just drive it if its driving nicely and not acting up. In the meantime you could slowly build your budget up for a fresh engine eventually.
I've personally become a big fan of Rockauto.com over the past couple years. I did a quick search on there and it looks like a set of 6 runs just shy of $250 for Standard Motor brand,.
With all due respect , Why would you have the lady spend $250 at RA when she could get a perfectly functional set from SouthBay for $135 ? She ain't looking to play "break the bank" , she's looking to get her car running right while spending the least amount of cash possible
Before replacing the injectors have them check the fuel pressure regulator . If the diaphragm of the FPR develops a leak it can cause the exact same symptom as leaking injector(s) will , a way too rich running engine that leaks fuel past the piston rings into the oil . Only after the FPR has been tested and deemed good should the injectors be suspect , the FPR is a $20 part VS a bit over $100 for the injectors .
and if it does end up needing injectors please look to TGO site sponsor "South Bay Fuel Injectors" for your new parts . He not only contributes financially to keep this site going , he spends time here helping people out with answers to questions about our car's fuel systems . He offers a discount to us TGO members so talk to him in person , tell him your from TGO , and he'll take good care of ya , Orangebird is running a set of South Bay injectors and literally purrs like a happy kitten .
Kitten!! Lol
So thin oil has nothing to do with it smelling like gas?!
(I didn’t buy into that!)
Is the regulator inside the tank with the pump?
Yes, if Old needs injectors, I will order from your people! 😊
Kitten!! Lol
So thin oil has nothing to do with it smelling like gas?!
(I didn’t buy into that!)
Is the regulator inside the tank with the pump?
Yes, if Old needs injectors, I will order from your people! 😊
No , actually if the oil smells like gas it will be thin , it's quite possible that if your injector(s) or fuel pressure regulator are leaking that the excess fuel will end up thinning the oil and causing low oil pressure . What happens when either the injector(s) or FPR fail is that it runs way too rich . This fouls the plugs , washes the oil film off of the cylinder wall (bad bad thing for excessive wear) , and end up leaking past the rings and diluting the oil .
The regulator is on top of the fuel rail that mounts the injectors to the lower intake manifold and is accessed by removing the upper intake manifold (the spider looking piece with the 2.8 badge on it) . There are tests that can be done without physically taking it apart , one being to use one of those little hand pump vacuum tools to apply vacuum to the regulator and see if it holds vacuum without leaking . If it holds , it's fine , if it leaks , it's bad and if bad the vacuum line connected to it will very often be filled with either raw fuel or it'll stink like raw fuel , the classic result of a ripped diaphragm .
I agree with OrangeBird - check the fuel pressure regulator and *I* would replace the injectors for peace of mind. I have seen plenty of bad injectors - to the point that I own an injector flow bench at my shop for testing them.
Fuel thinned the oil. Oil pressure dropped. Noises were heard. But no metal is evident so damage was minimal if any occurred.
This is clearly a case where you fix the fuel system, flush the engine with cheap oil and filter, and then check pressure with your regular oil. Assuming all is good there - keep driving it.
And I second South Bay Fuel Injectors. Just make sure you ask for exact stock style replacements - we don't want to be doing any tuning for Bosch III's, etc.
I agree with OrangeBird - check the fuel pressure regulator and *I* would replace the injectors for peace of mind. I have seen plenty of bad injectors - to the point that I own an injector flow bench at my shop for testing them.
Fuel thinned the oil. Oil pressure dropped. Noises were heard. But no metal is evident so damage was minimal if any occurred.
This is clearly a case where you fix the fuel system, flush the engine with cheap oil and filter, and then check pressure with your regular oil. Assuming all is good there - keep driving it.
And I second South Bay Fuel Injectors. Just make sure you ask for exact stock style replacements - we don't want to be doing any tuning for Bosch III's, etc.
GD
Here's a 3rd for Southbay. Frank is awesome over there and use this code...TG-11 for 10% off whatever you buy! I think he may have a FPR also.
As GD said just don''t get the reman Bosch 3's, not just the tuning but they are loud, lots of clicking. I went with the Delphi replacement ones from Southbay and just like Orangebird my car runs so smooth since the replacement.
Last edited by vinny R; Oct 24, 2019 at 11:29 AM.
Reason: typo
With all due respect , Why would you have the lady spend $250 at RA when she could get a perfectly functional set from SouthBay for $135 ? She ain't looking to play "break the bank" , she's looking to get her car running right while spending the least amount of cash possible
Although they may be functional. They are not correct for the application. Those appear to be Ford F1ZE injectors which flow like 14 lb I believe, a little more or less due to higher/lower pressures on ford applications. Still functional but will throw off the ecm off a bit. I use to run them but switched back to stock.
Last edited by maroe624; Oct 24, 2019 at 12:20 PM.