What is the group’s opinion about leaving the transmission in the car and only removing the engine? Basically leaving the driveshaft, transmission, crossmember, etc in place. Somehow find a way so support the front of the bell housing area up off the ground...

ive pulled the transmissions on this car a few times in recent years, and while it’s not a tremendous task, it just really sucks to do those damn bell housing bolts

 

I'm all for leaving then trans in place. It makes for a lighter and more maneuverable package with just the engine hanging off the hoist. But again, I find those bell housing bolts to be a pain in the ***. My remedy for that has been to lower the tail end of the transmission as far as possible so as to open up the access to those bolts. That said, to get to that position, the torque arm has to be removed and to get that reinstalled is also a PITA. With the DA44 and aftermarket torque arm, I've not a lot of room to get that arm back into position.
​​​​​​So, it's a little from column A, a little from column B as far as effort. Pick your poison.

 

Or purchase one of these:

Plenty of different vendors make them.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/p...hoCCN4QAvD_BwE

 

So, I removed the transmission today in a few short hours. driveshaft is out, trans lines are also out, converter, and the DynoDons y-pipe are also removed also. since it is my first engine pull on this type of vehicle, its probably much safer and less risky to simply just pull the engine out on it own.. right out of the top.

I plan to do the engine removal this weekend, and I am hoping it is pretty simple now and things go well.

 

Make sure you have a nice soft pillow or other foam thing to protect the front bumper.

Thirdgen's noses are long enough that most hoists can't lift the engine up directly.

On my GTA there are times that the hydraulic ram is basically resting on the front bumper. Though, I usually pull the engine and trans as a unit and separate it later.

 

That's exactly what I was talking about when describing the new vs old hoists. And by old I'm talking about the days before the off-shore deal we have today. Seems the overseas manufacturers will copy an idea, let's say my engine hoist from 1980, and reproduce it at a 3/4 scale. Plucking a 3rd gen engine was no problem when I got into this in the 90's (with the lift from my youth) but the replacement...not so much.
Anyway, with regards to pulling the engine itself. Slow and steady. A leveller is handy but not entirely necessary when the engine comes out on it's own. It make take a re-jigging of the hoist chain and where you have it attached to the engine and hook but otherwise, easy peasy.

 

sounds good


I already have the nose, bumper, hood etc off so the hoist should clear no problem!

i am unsure where to put the mounting bolts at the back of the engine, since it’s a real tight squeeze between the firewall and the back of the cylinder head. Perhaps I can access this area from the underside now that the transmission has been removed. Any other thoughts on where to setup the rear lifting chain? The front one will just bolt to the heads in bolt holes used by the front accessories right ?

sorry if im
hijackng this thread Tootie, I figured it was still on topic enough, and we all could learn from the answers I would get ?

 

Use the accessory bolt holes on the head.. A stud and nut with a few washers so you can avoid marring up the head.

You'll easily be able to reach them with a hand and box wrench, or a 3/8th ratchet that has a swivel handle.

In the lower right you can see the ground strap from the firewall to the head. Its easily accessible from the drivers side.

 

Should still have the lifting eye on the passenger's rear head.

 

I forgot about that. It’s long gone on
my car. But honestly I’d add it back if I found one.

 

Nice wheels...

 

Mine are long gone as well. I find there's enough room for an inch and a half bolt (3/8-16) between the firewall and passenger side head to accept one link of the chain. Then across the engine diagonally to the drivers side head. In some instances I've been able to access all four corners which makes for a more stable arrangement when that lump is hanging from the hoist. I tend to remove all accessories before hoisting.
What I've never tried is the intake manifold lifting plate. Of course this doesn't work with a TPI but then again, my cars have been carbureted for the last 20 years. That said, I'm not sure I trust four little 5/16ths bolts that thread into aluminium to hold that amount of weight. I know many do though.

 

I've installed BBCs using the lift plate no problem. I do prefer the control provided by an adjustable cradle. To use the cradle right, you really need to have the manifold off and attach the cradle to the four outside corner bolt holes. Then you get real control of the motors weight.

 

Interesting that is Doc. And I've observed and noted the practice many times. So I dug into some engineering papers and it seems that the most likely point of failure is the fastener failing and not the female threads in the aluminium intake. I guess the lifting plate designers know their stuff. It was noted that for added insurance (although in this case there doesn't appear to be any need) one could add a heli-coil.
Stuff you learn here at 3rd gen!

That is my preferred method.
​​​​​​​

 

got the engine out today.


prior to hooking up the engine I removed: distributor, alternator, evap canister, wiper motor, vac lines, fuel lines, power steering lines, the complete wiring harness, transmission, tv cable, throttle cable, headers, y-pipe, spark plugs, fans, radiator, trans cooler, etc. all that was left was the 2 thru-bolts in the engine mounts.

didnt even slide the 3 ton engine hoist that far under the car, no idea why we didnt, but it was very effortless and quick

Used that lifting eye that you guys mentioned which was by the rear of the passenger cylinder head, and then a piece of scrap iron bolted to the drivers side head by the PS pump bracket. worked great. no issues at all; not bad for my first engine removal on a 3rd gen!!!





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Well yeah, just look at all the contingency stickers on that hoist! That's like 75hp just in Moroso stickers. Wait, how does 25hp/sticker convert to hoists? Is it like .25 ton per sticker?

Nicely done!

 

Nicely done! And that hoist is massive!!!

I also yanked the engine and trans yesterday. Did it from the top, wheels off frame lowered, radiator out, load leveler, two spotter-sons, and a "don't stain my driveway" wife-supervisor. Used four intake manifold bolt holes with high grade bolts. Had to pick it from the side since my "Caterpillar" hoist was the 3/4 mini-sub micro version. But it came right out. Easy.

 

oops. Too much coffee.

 

That's funny , I was gonna say "But you guys did it all wrong , where's the Valdez sized oil slick !?!?"

But then I saw you were well supervised . Fear of Wife trumps "wherever I be may my oil run free" every time .

Congrats to Tootie and IROCZman for two engines safely removed !

 

No photo of leaning tower of power train. Shame.

 

"Tootiepang" "Did it from the top, wheels off frame lowered"

Did you mean you loosened , but did not remove the subframe bolts? Where you able to leave the shocks, brake hoses, etc connected? I'm making notes cause I'd like an L98( ca SMOG) in place of my 305 TPI.

 

I did mine from the top. -no trans.
I've had some many transmissions that I can pull 'em in my sleep.
Came in from the side as the nose was too long for my hoist.

 

Alright Drew, I'll take plenty of pics of the installation. Plenty of angles to be had for all to enjoy!

Not even that. It means I took the wheels offered and lowered the car a bit so that 1. I wouldn't have to lift higher than necessary and 2. I wouldn't have the coil springs lifting the car up as I lift the engine up. I supported the the car from the frame, not the control arms/axle. My jack stands were still higher than necessary. I could have dropped the front of the car another 5 inches if I put the frame down on blocks, but it was still easy without that. K member, coils, all that stayed untouched.

 

I did mine completely from the top. T56 included. No help, just me, my tools, and one sore back.

the craggy crappy driveway was the hardest part as nothing wanted to roll smoothly. Especially my old butt.