Two things Im looking for help on..

First issue:

Getting my third 700r4 and were having a hard time trying to find a torque converter for a v6 camaro 1988. Best deal if possible

Second issue:

Stock transmission was taken out with stock engine. 2nd transmission was put in along with other 2.8 v6 motor. I've been told there is a way to remove the transmission without removing the whole engine. Also been told its pretty easy too. Anyone done this or know where I can find a really good write up of this for when we put the transmission in the car in a few weekends?

Any info would help tons..

Thanks Bunches

 

Try any trans shop; you can get a torque convertor. Or are you talking an aftermarket performance TC?

Yes you can take the trans out without yanking the motor... I've done it myself, on my garage floor.

Just lift the car up high- and SAFE- on jackstands, all four corners. Raise by the control arm spring perches in the front, and the rear framerails in the back- don't support the car by the axle. Then, basically, remove everything.

1. Drain trans fluid (lighter, less mess), put trans pan back on
2. Undo TV cable at passenger side of trans, one 10mm bolt and one "hook", plug hole somehow
3. Undo shift cable linkage
4. Unplug TCC connector (driver side of trans)
5. Undo trans cooler lines (pass side of trans), fluid will drip out, plug holes in trans somehow
6. Yank d-shaft by rear straps at axle, might have to "pry" driveshaft towards trans (insert pry bar between front of pinion flange and rear of u-joint, don't pry the u-joint off the driveshaft by mistake!) Before you do this clean the driveshaft flange where it goes into the trans with a rag and some trans fluid--- ah never mind, you're swapping trannies, who cares about what happens to the old tranny's rear seal!
7. Put hydraulic jack under a block of wood under the trans pan (so you don't dent the trans pan in)
8. Remove crossmember
9. Undo torque arm mount, because you lifted the rear by the framerails and the axle is just free-hanging, the torque arm won't have a tendency to swing up and hit the floorboards
10. Remove everything else in the way
11. Support engine with another hydraulic jack by putting a block of wood between the jack and oil pan so you don't crush the pickup- trans acts as "rear" motor mount, so this keeps the motor from swiveling backwards and smashing into the firewall, watch distributor cap for clearance
12. Use a trans jack to hold the trans, or make your own adapter like I did... but secure the trans NOW! (Don't want to die from a trans falling on your brain; how embarassing!)
13. undo trans to motor bolts. All tools MUST be 1/2 inch drive tools- no thin 3/8 inch stuff! Need a long extension, ratchet, swivel, and 15mm or 19mm socket (depending on year, I needed a 19mm.) 3/8th (normal socket set stuff) extensions are too damn thin and will twist up and absorb your "strength" and not send the strength to the bolt. You'll be un-doing all of the bolts, with enough long extensions, to put the ratchet (or breaker bar) near the tailshaft of the transmission. That'll give you enough "swing" room with the breaker bar.
14. Remove everything...

On installation:

*** 1: FLUSH the trans cooler lines out!! They contain metal filings from your old trans, and you don't want that metal in your new trans!! Trans shops sell a flush kit; basically an aerosol cleaner with a special adapter. Could also flush using the new trans itself, do a search on the trans forum for "trans flush"
*** 2: FILL the NEW torque convertor with 1 or 2 liters of trans fluid. Slowly pour some into the TC snout- it'll fill up quick, but eventually bubble inside.
*** 3: MAKE SURE the new TC is FULLY SEATED! Our 700r4's have TWO sets of splines. You'll put the new TC onto the trans and I almost 99% guarantee you'll think "Geez TomP it's seated, I checked, it won't go on any further, you're a crackhead". Well here's how you tell:

When you put the new trans up, the TC should NOT mash against the flywheel! With both bellhousings touching, and maybe one or two trans-to-motor bolts threaded in, the TC should NOT be pressed against the flywheel. You should be able to slide the TC towards/away from the flywheel about an inch or two. Yes, the TC will slide along the trans input shaft. This lets you easily spin the TC around to get all the TC-to-flywheel bolts to line up.

If the TC is mashed against the flywheel, you only engaged ONE set of splines. You must drop the trans and get that second set engaged! When this is done properly the TC will seat so far inside the tranny bellhousing that the BACK of the TC will touch the FRONT of the trans fluid pump!!

If you start the motor with an incorrectly-seated TC, you'll destroy the TC and the new trans with one turn of the key. How does it destroy the trans? #1, input shaft gets killed- replacement requires a teardown of the whole darn trans. #2, metal goes through the whole trans- including the catch-all-pieces valvebody, requiring another teardown.

Good luck... full procedure is in the 82-92 Haynes Manual. I typed it up because I'm still awake after an awesome night of maybe one too many beers.

 

1)jack up all 4 corners on stands(not blocks)

2) remove driveshaft (unbolt fron rear yoke, slide forward and drop out then back)

3)remove convertor cover, and remove 3 convertor bolts

4) remove rear corsmember mount and assembly with a jack positioned under the pan in a block of wood.

5) pull out jack, let trans "hang" -remove pan, drain fluid- unhook trans lines (upper right side- 2 lines), tv cable (right side 10mm bolt), 12v connection plug (4 prong, left side), and speedo cable (left rear on tailshaft)

6)replace trans pan (leaving off the shifter linkage)- remove nut off of left side and zip tie cable assembly up out of the way.

7) replace jack under pan (with block of wood on it- A trans jack would be great help, but not necessary if you feel strong or have help.)

8) remove 6 bolts from trans to motor (at this point, hang on to the trans when the last bolt is removed-tip: take out the easiest one last) At this point- its a real f-ing balancing act to get it down without it falling off the jack- I have done it many many times myself and have lost it once-note:I can bench about 250lbs) I would recommend help on the other side balancing it- Again, a trans jack will eliminate this problem!) Bring the entire assembly down to the ground- convertor and all. If you try to leave the convertor attached to the flexplate and remove the trans only, there is not much room to twist it out of there.

tip#2: lots of rags handy for the leftover fluid that will be all over the place- even if predrained. seep out of all the little holes that are unhooked.

Edit well, you beat me to it Tom- I did forget about the stock torque arm mount- Mine doesn't have that anymore

 

Thanks guys I printed the info out and Im going to be getting the other transmission. Whats the cheapest you think I might be able to get by with for a torque converter? Anyone know how much these cost? I checked napa and summit didnt have much luck. Even looked at ebay. guess really were not sure which one to get.. Some say their not for v6's.

 

Just don't ever buy a used convertor- or put one back in that is "contaminated" by a tranny breakdown. Always best to put a new one in there- otherwise you will be pulling the trans again real soon.
Just make sure the convertor has braised fins. Any decent convertor will cost you a minimum of $150. Mine in my car retails at about $450, but its custom made.

 

Where might I be able to find one for 150.00 or around?

 

Call these guys (just one I found with a quick internet search.) http://www.bulkpart.com/cgi-bin/miva...y_Code=700R4tc

You want a better one, call Summit or TCI - but you'll pay more. You should have a shop somewhere local to you that you can call and have one priced and made- gotta shop around.

 

Heather, that's from the first line in my long message above. Guess you just printed it and didn't read it yet, eh?

Good point about the extra rags, too, AGood! Nothin' like rolling over into trans fluid to ruin an hour or so (until it somewhat dries)!

 

No I saw that bit. I was just trying to get more of an idea where besides there. I called around and looks like I can get one for 150.00 with no core charge. I hope its the right now.. Do these things have different numbers on them? the transmission is from an 89RS camaro 2.8 v6.