First things first, I'm no longer a 3rd gen owner after wrecking my 90'

Now that this is out of the way, I'm needing some help, I have a 96 Chevy K1500 that I am building a new engine for, and was originally looking to swap a complete TPI engine from a 3rd gen as mine made TONs or torque, and that is what I'm looking to do. But then I came across this intake manifold, I'm not finding a ton of information on it, other than every 3rd gen owner that has swapped to vortec heads, love this thing

https://sdparts.com/i-23896057-sdpc-sd3816-tpi-vortec-lower-intake-baseplate.html

Any info would be greatly appreciated

 

If your running vortec heads scoggin Dickey or Used edelbrock base are your only choices.
unless you go hsr or first.

 

https://firstfuelinjection.com/

Ken can machine the intake for any cylinder head bolt pattern.

GD

 

I knew SD adapter would end up being the base intake, but does anyone have any experience with it? Any complaints? Or would there be another MPFI intake that may suit a pickup better? I know the TPI intake and Vortec heads pair well together, but other options may be interesting as well

 

Use the search feature lots of guys using that base.
its pretty restricted by design can’t port much.

 

It is extremely restrictive and really no room to port it out for more flow - there's just no material to work with.. Speaking with Ken at FIRST - he has had customers compare before/after using the Vortec base TPI and then the FIRST manifold and with no other changes they picked up 60 HP at the wheels.

GD

 

That was one of my big concerns as well, the Vortec heads I plan on running on this engine has already had a small port job (not polished though) 2.02/1.50 valves, screw in rocker studs, and will be planning on beehive valve springs. So if the manifold cant be matched to the heads, itll already have a small disadvantage off the get go, even though it would be much better than stock. Horsepower is nice to have, but the torque is what I'm mostly after, horsepower will come along with RPM, but it's a full sized 4x4 truck.

 

Eh - I don't know about those Vortec mods. The Vortec's respond to exhaust help, not so much on the intake. Often porting the intake or changing the intake valve sizes actually causes them to do worse on the low end. Mine have stock ports, stock intake 1.95's and only larger 1.6 exhaust valves for modifications and they are paired with a split duration 276/288 camshaft for more help on the exhaust side and really strong PAC racing beehive springs with 130lb on the seat. I make 325 HP at the rear wheels, and the torque is around 450 ft/lbs at 2500.

GD

 

I've heard the same thing about exhaust help, and not so much on intake help, but I've also heard that intake help, and exhaust system help also wakes these heads up considerably. Taken that you dont polish the intake runners. I honestly dont know either way? But I do have 3 or 4 sets of these heads laying around that i could easily scrounge up another set of heads, porting exhaust runners, and a larger exhaust valve.

I'm still not exactly certain on the cam to run, at least not until I figure out what the top end will be able to handle, but something like the Comp Cams XE264HR, along with the Comp Cams 26986-16 Beehive valve springs. 137lbs of seat pressure. But again, it comes down to what the heads are machined for. No since in buying this cam/spring set if the heads wont take the lift.

If I may ask, are these power figures out of a 350CI, or 383CI?

 

350 - not even a 355 - did not touch the bores. It's a stock 97 Vortec short block (rebuilt - line hone, decked, polished crank, stock size bearings, every [stock] piston 0.025" in the hole) with a 0.015" MLS head gasket. The heads were machined for screw-in studs, and the guides were cut down and with beehives they have no issue with .500/.520 lift - miles of clearance. But the Vortec heads don't need tons of lift. I'm running the Comp NX276HR for it's split duration. Matches the Vortec's really well. You can lookup my post with the dyno charts. It's recent.

No polishing was done to the ports, and the FIRST manifold is completely as-cast. No work was done to it either. I don't see the point - the few or 10 HP it would make is no concern. I'll never feel it and I'm just going to ProCharge it anyway and push it up to 500 wheel. I don't bother with all that porting and busy-work. Add more boost and those minor inefficiencies won't make a bit of difference at higher pressures.

GD

 

Thank you for the information, I'll likely be looking up your dyno charts later today. I am shooting for a .030 overbore vortec short block, 6" I beam rods, 18cc dish pistons, External balanced crank, along with head combination, with MPFI. And it's good to know cut down guides, screw in rockers, and beehives clear plenty of lift.

 

I would suggest not touching the bores unless they are damaged. There's just no good reason to remove material from the bores and honing is not necessary or recommended for proper ring seating. Just don't touch them - the results will be better all around. Less break in materials.

GD

 

unfortunately the block I have has three out-of-bounds cylinders, i could get by with a .020 overbore, but .030 parts are a little more available. I'll have to check, but possibly another block could be a good choice as well.

 

Mine had 177k on it and died from the plastic intake manifold gasket failure - full of milkshake. All the cylinders were in excellent shape - actually the whole engine was great. I got it fully dressed with everything even the clutch fan for $200.

You might just start fresh with another block. I would.

GD