LarryD

So, I have an ARP oil pump stud for my 1996 5.7L Vortec (it has the hole all the way through to the main bearing). At least, as near as I can measure, with the stud finger tight, I am not hitting the main bearing. The measurement is pretty close and the ARP spec says it is compatible with the engine so guessing it shouldn't interfere.

Anyway, a few questions:

Do I need to take the main bearing cap off and put the stud into the cap then put the cap back on to make sure it doesn't hit the bearing?
How do you tighten the stud (finger tight or with locking pliers) and do you use a blue or red thread locker on it?
Since this has a nut, washer and splash pan that also bolts to the stud with the pump, what is the correct "stack up of parts"? That is, does the washer go on top of the pump, then the splash pan and then the nut? Or, does the splash pan go on top of the pump, then the washer, and then the nut on top?

Thanks...

AlkyIROC

Studs are always installed finger tight with oil on the threads. All the clamping force is done by the nut and the twisting action usually done by a bolt which can distort the cap is eliminated. If the studs extends through the main cap enough to contact the bearing, grind a little off the end of the stud that goes into the cap then just clean up the threads so it threads smoothly into the cap. If the nut is torque correctly, it should not back itself off. Thread lock will change the torque.

As for the splash pan, I would put pan, washer, nut then torque to spec.

GeneralDisorder

iTrader: (1)

Why? What possible advantage over the stock bolt is there in using a stud for the oil pump? Seems useless to me.

GD

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Zackly.

Seems like an elegant heavy-duty solution looking for a problem to solve. But just as likely creating new problems along the way.