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Tech / General EngineIs your car making a strange sound or won't start? Thinking of adding power with a new combination? Need other technical information or engine specific advice? Don't see another board for your problem? Post it here!
Motor back together, broke the AIR pipe arguing with it trying to get the valve cover back in. Suppose others have had the same fate. Thank god they still make these
Disconnected the fuel filter and put the battery on the car and it turns over nicely. No fuel came out and the fuel gauge is pegged to over full so would assume sender and pump are shot. Confirms the tank is coming out unless I’m missing something???
Found a new issue as the trans line going into radiator is leaking which probably explains why the hood was full of it. I’ll have to splice in a union and buy that stuff along with a bender and flare tool.
Found some transmission lines pre-bent from Hawks so ordered a set of those but technically just need the upper, way cheaper that buying tools to fabricate a patch with a union for me though. Ordered more of the coolant hoses and need to grab a length of heater hose to replace the section above which probably contributed to the rust/crack on the line?
RockAuto just got the Bosch fuel pumps back in stock and heard nothing but good things about them so ordered one today. Found and order the AIR line and valve I broke too.
Watching all the YouTube videos on dropping the tank as trying to get excited about it, not this guy does a good job although he admits to dropping the exhaust first is best prior to removing the heat shields -
When you do the pump make sure the hose from the pump to the pick up tube assembly is made from "submersible" fuel line that is ethanol safe. Trust me there's a BIG difference between fuel injection hose and SUBMERSIBLE fuel injection hose.
IMO it's too much trouble to replace the pump with stock when you can get a 255LPH or 340LPH pump for like $90.
When you do the pump make sure the hose from the pump to the pick up tube assembly is made from "submersible" fuel line that is ethanol safe. Trust me there's a BIG difference between fuel injection hose and SUBMERSIBLE fuel injection hose.
IMO it's too much trouble to replace the pump with stock when you can get a 255LPH or 340LPH pump for like $90.
GD
Yeah sorry to confuse GD the heater hose I was referring to replacing is the one in the photo as believe it was leaking and led to the rusted now leaking transmission line.
I think the fuel pump has a new piece of fuel hose that will come with it, I was keen on the Bosch as it has that turbine better than stock design. I'm not planning any modifications for HP gains at the motor to justify a higher flow pump I guess
I ordered a Spectra sending hanger unit too, was reading other threads as symptomatic of the gauge stuck on full.
These came today too and found NOS off eBay for nearly same price RockAuto had -
Both of the pumps I listed are turbine designs and essentially silent. The next guy that wants more power would thank you. But the Bosch pump will work fine. I just have a difficult time not upgrading when the price is essentially the same. Fuel pump's are a racket - you can get quite a lot of pump now for CHEAP with DW or AEM and we use them by the gross - never had a single failure. I have a DW 255 in my Trans Am and a Walbro in my Formula (not a turbine but it was free - came with the car in an "Edelbrock" kit).
Looks like you're having better luck than I am. I am currently doing the same thing with 91 formula. Although, I am having to rebuild the motor in mine. Too much sludge. What they did to the motor I'm not sure. Good luck with yours.
Victory, she’s out and the tank is in great shape! There is a light line with mild varnish but very pleased. Someone has had it out before as one of the strap bolts was different and noticed the hose clamps are aftermarket.
You haven’t lived until you’ve dropped a gas tank in one of these as used up the rest of my PB blaster to soak all the bolts last night and it paid off well as the exhaust disconnected without trouble
The sock on the end is crispy and the assembly seems tired. Those factory Bilsteins clean up nice too.
When you go back together you might want to leave out the pulsator. It’s purpose is to dampen vibrations from the fuel pump to the line and quiet pump noise. A hose in its place with hose clamps does the trick to prevent leaks .
Unusual to see one in that kindof shape. Must have been non-ethanol fuel. Both of mine were parked around 2004 to 2006 and the tanks were absolutely trashed inside.
Appears the 87-89 that Inline Tube shows has the correct bend. Emailed them and in case anyone else has a similar issue hopefully they update their application for model years.
The ones they sent were for the carburated model as 82-86 had and they dropped in 1987. These actually fit from 1985-92 for the TPI fuel-injected models -
Tank is back in, all together back on the ground and threw about 4 gallons of gas in. Then tested to she shows a fuel reading on the gauge!
Waiting for a double flaring tool to be delivered today as decided to splice in a transmission line chunk. Everything is delivery impacted from weather and line set I ordered coming from Michigan won’t be here until mid next week.
Once I fix that time to try and start as can’t wait...
Started up and blew all kinds of smoke and rust flakes out of the exhaust, it wouldn't idle off the bat and had to restart it multiple times then finally stayed going. Killed it after a couple of tries after revving it up but after it got warmer it kept going. There was a bunch of smoke of various oils, chemicals burning off under the hood too but laid down and idled nicely...
Good oil pressure, coolant temp, and the electric fan came on and works, A/C compressor probably needs freon. Blew all kinds of crap out of the vents when I turned it on, lol... The transmission was super low on fluid, I shut it off and then ran to O'Reilly in my daily driver and picked up 4 quarts of fluid. It used them all and could probably use another half quart but think I'll change the filter at some point soon too. Ironically the new trans lines came in the mail today, but the repair I did last night is holding well.
Valve covers seem to be leaking onto the manifolds so tightened them down a bit and never had much love for stamped covers + cork and don't want to smash them. Anyone who has advice on these would appreciate hearing it as feeling like I should have used rubber.
Took it up and down the street close to the house and the brake light was on drove her around the block a few times and seems to go off. Took it around the way on a busier drive and had a bit of a violent death wobble with the steering shaking the wheel as I brought the speed up past 35. Freaked me out and thought it was a wheel coming off so I got out and did a check to see if all the lugs were tight and they were. I drove it some more and it seemed to settle down a bit, brakes pulsate though. Thinking stuck caliper or bearing for the wobble and probably warped rotors??? Either way as @GeneralDisorder mentioned the rust is gone off the rotors and be curious what you think GD.
Drove it home, had lunch and took it out again filled up with 10 gallons of gas. Got a bit better and trans was shifting nicer, was able to bring it up past 50mph and kick it down, she hauls ***!
Thanks to everyone who pitched in to help and very happy that it's alive again after 25 years!
Gave it a wash, also cleaned up the engine bay and it really popped -
The wobble is probably because the tires are square from sitting all that time. I just got a Z28 from Hawaii with 66k on it and same deal - has a pretty horrible vibration from the flat spots on the tires that have been sitting on one spot for 12 years.
Good job BTW and especially for taking the time to do the job the RIGHT way without cutting corners. Feels good doesn't it?
Valve covers seem to be leaking onto the manifolds so tightened them down a bit and never had much love for stamped covers + cork and don't want to smash them. Anyone who has advice on these would appreciate hearing it as feeling like I should have used rubber.
Use reusable rubber over steel core valve cover gaskets and are you using the load spreader bars?
The wobble is probably because the tires are square from sitting all that time. I just got a Z28 from Hawaii with 66k on it and same deal - has a pretty horrible vibration from the flat spots on the tires that have been sitting on one spot for 12 years.
Good job BTW and especially for taking the time to do the job the RIGHT way without cutting corners. Feels good doesn't it?
GD
Thanks GD yeah does feel good and learned a lot in the process of doing it the RIGHT way too, yeah flat spots make sense and ordered some new tires as need to replace a wheel too as have that and a new center cap as the car came with a spare and missing wheel.
You gonna post some of your revival of the Hawaiian discovery?
Use reusable rubber over steel core valve cover gaskets and are you using the load spreader bars?
Was afraid someone was going to say use the rubber ones. The stock load spreader bars are there and I read in another post to hand tighten them rather than use a ratchet which I did using a nut driver. Haven't ran it yet but fingers crossed that seals them up
You have a reference of a brand of rubber steel core?
Thanks GD yeah does feel good and learned a lot in the process of doing it the RIGHT way too, yeah flat spots make sense and ordered some new tires as need to replace a wheel too as have that and a new center cap as the car came with a spare and missing wheel.
You gonna post some of your revival of the Hawaiian discovery?
The car came with Toyo Proxes which were a hot tire back in the day and the tread is aggressive looking. They don’t make a model for the IROC in the Proxes line but have one called an Extensa HP II which does fit and has good reviews as is good in wet conditions which seems like a plus given no ABS brakes
Guess I feel some nostalgia keeping to the car and previous owners choice. I also have a NOS set of H&R Sport Springs in the box from the same era as they came with the car and he never installed. He also fitted KYB GR-2 front struts and Hella replacement halogen lights with bulbs too as the only other modifications to the car.
Tires are on and spent the better part of half a day cleaning the wheels and taking off years of inner grime, tar, and brake dust. Replaced the wheel lugs with the Dorman ones as the two-piece originals were falling apart and tired. Also repacked the front bearings and put in new grease seals. The transmission fluid started to darken more after driving it for a good hour over the weekend. No more death wobble!
Plus the valve cover gaskets seem to have stopped leaking after my hand tightening with a nut driver.
Decided to change out the trans fluid with a filter change and dropped the pan, what a mess of a job but what I saw in the pan looks to be in good shape. I also now have new coolant hoses, clamps and bought 2 gallons of Prestone so that's my next job flushing and installing these.
Changed out the outer window seal on the driver's door as they are both crispy, also tested and took out the door actuator as it's not locking but seems to be getting 5 volts from the supply?
Finally sorted out getting the filter for the transmission installed as I had the old version where the fluid intake was from the top, the new one comes from bottom. Had to move the angle of filter just a tad and wack it in with my hand to get the seal to seat.
Spent most of the day changing hoses on the car; upper and lower radiator, heater hoses and the bypass hose and glad I did as they were spongy.
Doing the coolant change and flush per the shop manual and drained block and radiator and kept flushing with distilled water -
We uploaded more videos to the YouTube channel too and having fun with it as the family is all in
It's been fun following along. I'm a bit jealous looking at the rust free condition of everything underneath your SoCal car. Here in the Northeast the rust and corrosion on everything is half the battle when turning a wrench.
Thanks as I know what you mean, I grew up in Minnesota so spent plenty of time racking my knuckles on rusty bolts with hammers and blowtorches. Yeah this car like many other in California is a dream to work on.
Weekend projects have been replacing the temp sender wire as it was melted and grounded to the exhaust manifold pegging the temp gauge, I first thought the gauge in the cluster was bad and took the instrument panel apart. Learned not to buy cheap wire loom too or it turns into candle wax, high temp stuff coming. Also replaced about five of the 194 bulbs that were burnt out including the right turn signal indicator. Nice and bright now.
Finished compounding the car with Mezerna 400 fast gloss and the Porter Cable polisher too and it looks sharp. Driving it around now and got a few nice ride from like minded folks who appreciate the car too.
Ordering parts for full brake system reuild including calipers and hoses as the fluid is starting to darken again too and got some pulsating going on.
Made it up the coast to Malibu in the car for a late night drive, also through the first tank of gas on the car. The smells of the engine are starting to normalize and going to get the car smogged so I can get registration done ✅
Really does nice on the California roads and the PCH US 1
Ordered headliner material as a guy is wearing it at times when driving...lol
The first batch of brake parts came in from Rockauto for the system overhaul, trying to source some of the rear is a bit of a challenge as the rear calipers are NLA so will have to rebuild.
The rear Delco-Morrain iron calipers are not worth rebuilding. Find ANY way to get rid of them. Honestly just switching it to drums is a 500% better option than doing ANYTHING with the Delco's. They are a serious mess to deal with and even with them working they don't do squat for braking. With my 86 on my DynoJet I have to put all my weight on the pedal to even stop the rear wheels from spinning with the car in-gear and idling. They are essentially dead weight and IMO it would be better to just cap the rear lines and throw the calipers in the trash - except for the parking brake - which is a B1TCH to adjust but does work *a little* once adjusted properly.
The rear Delco-Morrain iron calipers are not worth rebuilding. Find ANY way to get rid of them. Honestly just switching it to drums is a 500% better option than doing ANYTHING with the Delco's. They are a serious mess to deal with and even with them working they don't do squat for braking. With my 86 on my DynoJet I have to put all my weight on the pedal to even stop the rear wheels from spinning with the car in-gear and idling. They are essentially dead weight and IMO it would be better to just cap the rear lines and throw the calipers in the trash - except for the parking brake - which is a B1TCH to adjust but does work *a little* once adjusted properly.
GD
That stupid 19lb prop valve spring change in the brake section finally got my rear delco's working on my 86 after years of stuggling with them.. they even stop up in the air on stands now.. never did before..
That stupid 19lb prop valve spring change in the brake section finally got my rear delco's working on my 86 after years of stuggling with them.. they even stop up in the air on stands now.. never did before..
Yeah I did the spring mod also. Personally I didn't notice a significant difference. Being able to stop the wheels from spinning in the air is a good sign but it's far from stopping the car when it's rolling. 30 lb wheel and tire vs. 3500 lb car.....
Holy smokes a bit of threads on rear brakes and proportioning valves out there, read quite a lot and @GeneralDisorder can't say I can find many posts of folks being big fans of those rear calipers like you said as probably best those end up at a bottom of a lake. What is the deal with the recall parts???
Yeah, the 19lb spring thing seems to be the kicker to get some action from them @Camaro86IrocZ dude.
My intent was just to replace anything rubber as all the black crap I rubbed out of the nylon master cylinder on the first bleed had to be rubber deterioration.
I'm getting pulsation and wheel shimmy when hitting the brakes plus as a bonus a sticky caliper that happens to make noise from time to time. Along with hearing the pads jingling around in the calipers going over speed bumps.
Wonderful news though as a guy passed the SMOG check and she's California legal now. They did just about every test including checking the timing, pinching off EVAP lines at the charcoal grill, pressure testing the gas cap, and asked me if I smoke, lol no but I thought someone from CARB (Califonia Air Resource Board) was going to pop around the corner as the guys took over an hour on the car
I pushed a new video up as took her for another drive to In and Out....
[QUOTE=1985_IROC;6420477]Liked reading your thread Calidude. I'm flushing my coolant and replacing the heater core, I'm having a tough time finding the correct hoses.
Can you PM or post the hose part numbers that you purchased/used?
Thanks!!! [/QUOTE I bought all I bought at Rock Auto and upper radiator hose is a Dayco along with the heater hose, the throttle body is a ACDelco along with the lower radiator. I had to look at the 1986 model for a couple as they didn’t list under the 1985. Will dig up the numbers and PM you.
Did the brakes over the weekend and huge improvement, no more shimmy shake or pulsating pedal. Decided to leave the rears alone as the rotors and pads are near new, the rear calipers bleed out okay and I did change the hoses including the one to the body to the rear end.
Weekend into Monday project complete and the new headliner is a wrap. Did the fabric recover and ordered some nice material from Goliners on eBay and the material was perfect with the foam backing. Saved the backing material and strengthened the delicate areas with a fiberglass resin 3M kit and also bought the Permatex headliner spray both from O'Reilly, they even stocked the plastic clips for the window trim.
this guy does a good job although he admits to dropping the exhaust first is best prior to removing the heat shields - 
