I'm bringing an 85 IROC back to life after it's been off the road since 1996 (yikes that's 25 years) but haven't put a battery on it yet.

Was thinking of first ensuring whatever fuel was left in the tank doesn't get pushed to the motor. Any recommendations regarding the fuel tank, drop it and check the pump?

Appreciate any help...

 

If it has a carb and a manual fuel pump, at the fuel pump disconnect and plug the line coming from the tank and get a length of fuel line at your local parts store, connect that line to the block-mounted mechanical fuel pump and drop the other end into a fresh cantainer of gasoline. Make sure you do this outside with a fire extinguisher at the ready.

 

It's going to help to know whether is is injected (TPI) or carbureted (E4ME) since the procedures will be slightly different, and 1985 could have been either variant.

In either case, Pump, siphon, or drain as much of the old tank contents as you can, and acquire a couple of fuel filters.

 

25 years..... you should just figure on replacing the fuel tank, pickup, and pump. They will be garbage. Both of mine sat for over 10 years and the fuel tanks were a total loss.

GD

 

If tpi look at southbay 19#hr injectors, I’d do the rail rebuild sk24 standard motor products.
fuel regulator diaphragm and new pump after a tank clean.
if ccc pull qjet and rebuild.

 

Thanks guys, it's a TPI model as forgot to mention that...

Just ordered a siphon pump and will start there and post up what I find in the tank.

 

A fuel hose works just a well. Jack up the car. Just a fuel hose down the filler neck and blow compressed air past the hose to create a siphon keeping the hose below the tank level. Cheap and effective.

 

I am nearly finished resurrecting a one owned garage keep 85 that was parked in 93! New baffled Spectra tank and Areomotive E85 Fuel Pump 11542 and a Spectr Sending unit.

No saving this 85 IROC FP after 27 years

Spectra baffled tank requires you to rotate the sending unit fuel pump mount 90° so the filter runs left and right not front to back! Easy to do with patience and Dremel!

 

I tried that, can’t siphon dust! LOL

 

Waste of time. Just pull the tank. It will be garbage along with the pump and sending unit.

GD

 

Don't bother. My car sat for 13 years. Everything was garbage. Used a Spectra tank and hanger, Bosch fuel pump (tbi), fuel filter and a TBI unit from a recently parted car. Started right up.

 

Pulled 7 gallons out of the tank, it looks like ale. I threw on a new fuel filter which seemed to help remove more bad fuel from the lines. Changed the oil too as both gas and oil smelled just funky. Both the oil and fuel filter was the old emblem AC with the round red dot. I had to stab the oil filter with a screwdriver to start it off.



Car was missing the alternator so also rigging that up as hunted all over town for a bolt spacer. I finally ended up ordering something from Amazon that should be here soon. There were 2 K&N air filters installed and swapped those out too.



I'm going to finish that up along with change plugs, cap, and rotor next.

Thinking I don't have much to lose by at least throwing in a few gallons of gas and give it a turn to see if she'll run.

 

If your going to try to start with the varnished injectors and old pump. You might melt the relay connectors.
not sure it will even pop with old injectors maybe with starting fluid.

 

Crank it with the injectors unplugged to get some oil pressure into it.

In all likelyhood the fuel pump won't run. You can jump power to it at the relay connector and check pressure at the rail.

Injectors are sure to be stuck. You can try to get them to click with a 9v battery. Likely futile.

It will likely try to run on starting fluid. The ignition system is self-contained and will operate without the computer - locked to 10 degrees timing.

GD

 

Thanks guys, I'm processing and thinking through your feedback as appreciate the help. My hope is that since it's a southern California car the dry climate would work to my advantage as we don't have the seasonal aspects of a freezing cycle either which in my mind would create all kinds of moisture condensation in the fuel tank (hence an environment for rust) in other climates. Maybe I'm California Dreamin' tho

I'll purchase a fuel pressure gauge to connect with the rail then and disconnect the injectors which is really a step of taking them out too. If the fuel pump produces any kind of acceptable pressure or just works for starters that would give me a read to test the health of it. Any idea of what PSI that I should be looking for?

"You can jump power to it at the relay connector and check pressure at the rail."
Wouldn't just turning the key and cranking it turn the fuel pump on? Can you point me to a procedure perhaps...

I live by this place in Torrance and in regards to the fuel injectors they do rebuilding and are pretty well known. They will clean and test for $25 a piece * 8 = $200
https://www.rcfuelinjection.com/Stor...ector-cleaning

 

Cranking the engine should work for turning on the fuel pump, but with it cranking you can't hear the pump and that also drops the voltage down.

Should be 43.5 psi at the rail.

I wouldn't rebuild RP Multec injectors. Often the coil insulation degrades on them to the point they short out internally and the coil itself can't be serviced. Get a new set of Delphi's from South Bay.

GD

 

Southbay has 3 options for 19#hr injectors.
the cheaper Bosch not D3 work fine. Don’t waste your money on getting yours serviced.
general iirc multecs came out in 89.

https://www.southbayfuelinjectors.co...tors-1985-1992

try tg11 at checkout

 

Thank you both and I looked back in the car service history; the injectors, cold start valve and fuel pressure regulator were replaced in 1991 which was only 30 years ago

Yeah looks like Delphi isn't an option for the 1985 version of the 305 -
https://www.southbayfuelinjectors.co...brand_brand=19

However these for $150 seem to be good value like you said -
https://www.southbayfuelinjectors.co...maro-1985-1992

 

My mistake. Not multec's. Still - 1985 injectors be TRASH IMO. I wouldn't even both testing them. And the regulator diaphragm..... that's reason enough to pull it down. Clean everything and replace the important bits.

GD

 

I'm not a huge fan of the Bosch III's. Technically they do require tuning and they aren't very linear at low pulse widths. They will work but your fuel trims will often be railed at idle. Not a great solution IMO.

IDK about the Bosch II's. Maybe. Personally if you aren't doing any tuning I would get the EXACT SAME THING it came with stock.

GD

 

Yeah these are rebuilt Bosch units from that South Bay place, the Bosch III's seem to be using some kind of adapter too...

This is what RockAuto is carrying -

 

Just go with link on 17 they fine, ohm tested and flow tested and cleaned.
the D3 do have a press on adapter to make them longer to fit in tpi. Fuel injection connection sells the same injectors but double o-ring to seal them on the intake side. But like stated all over the board need tuning.

 

Looks like a bit of a project taking off the plenum and getting these out.

Photo of what's in there from the replacement in 1991, are these any good? as noticed they have a green band...

 

Replacing the injectors is a easy job. Just watch the length of the bolts and use a good quality t40 .
those look like Lucas injectors would probably have a D then a number to identify them on the top body.

 

Making progress although I'm stuck trying to get this Torx bolt off the passenger front lower. The others came off easy in fact a couple of them were loose.




It won't budge and I put a lot of force on and don't want to snap it. I annihilated it with PB Blaster but doubt it's going to reach the threads with that large head. There are all kinds of smog stuff and the coolant line to/from the throttle body that also make it a challenge getting a long extension straight on it.




I'm using these T40 sockets with a 3/8 rachet, the one on the left is a Great Neck and the one on the right is a Lisle... Does that Great Neck to me looks torqued or bent???

Appreciate any advice guys

 

The one torx looks twisted. You might look on eBay for a snap on torx. Quality really matters especially if it’s stuck. a wobble extension works well instead of the u joint socket. I doubt the bolt is rusted but over tightened .

 

Yeah quality sockets matter here - Snap-On would be preferable. Also take a punch and give the bolt a few good whacks straight down it's axis. Can really help break the thread tension.

Pull the valve cover to get a better shot at it also. It's not worth the effort to fight around it.

GD

 

Cornwell and max are other good choices for a t40.
going back together 8mm stainless Allen heads are cheap and a long ball head socket works great for install. A dab of antiseeze on the threads doesn’t hurt too.

 

Thanks guys, yeah all good advice and much appreciate. I'll give it some good jarring whacks with a punch and also get a decent T40 socket as had to step away from it or something was sure to go wrong last night

I was looking around for a decent Torx set and also to buy some wobble extensions as don't have them. I have some Snap On screwdrivers, SK wrenches and a 3/8 socket set but mostly Craftsman that are getting tired. I found a SK Torx set that looks reasonable and hear they are near good of quality as Snap On and a little cheaper. I'll look at those other suggestions too.

 

If you want a premium Torx bit, see if you can find Apex. They actually made the punch inserts for the dies used to head the bolts. Ask me how I know, if you want a Mary Shelly novel...

 

Thanks I ended up ordering a set of SK wobble extensions $65 and took the plunge and bought some Snap-On Torx sockets from eBay for $175 bucks, ugh... yeah who is Mary Shelly? sounds like you have some cool ties to the production line Vader.

 

Whatever bits you use, ascertain that there is a good fit. Using a non-conforming "star" driver (the oriental "equivalent" to Torx) is like re-threading the holes in your block during a rebuild using a Mongolian tap dimensionally rounded off to the nearest millimeter. It might clean out the crud and let the bolt in, but you could basically do the same thing with a twist drill.

I spent nearly 20 years in a Textron facility where cold forming was done. They developed and owned the patents for Torx and some other proprietary stuff. I cringe when I see the non-conforming knock-off tools, since we all KNOW what happens with inferior tooling. Mary Shelly was a particularly verbose novelist, who happend to author "Frankenstein" among other stories. It seemed somewhat fitting since we were discussing fake import tools and the impending disaster.

As for your stubborn intake bolts, applying a bit of heat can be helpful. Of course, you'll nee to be cautious using heat near any fuel or other combustibles. The factory used a polymeric sealant/locker on those bolts, and if any of it was left after the previous reassembly, it could create a struggle. There is no need to get the fastener any hotter than about 400°F, Exceeding 800° will anneal the head and allow the bit to distort the lobes and cam out. 400° is enough to soften the sealant and help break any aluminnum seizing which may have occurred since assembly.

 

https://boltbusterinc.com/kit/
A Flameless Handheld Induction Tool to remove rusted, seized or stripped nuts, bolts, bearings, gears, pins and more!
Many brands available.

 

I own one of those and it's not going to get down in there to the TPI runner bolts. Useful tools though.

GD

 

Okay finally some progress and had to perform surgery to get the SOB out!
Couldn't get the right angle on the bolt, wobble was close and it broke loose but I ground the head off. Then had to take off the valve cover to drill it out and lots of propane heat to get it to loosen with a vice grip. I may frame it, lol...

Now the fuel rail is off and can now rebuild as ordered gaskets, o-rings a fuel pressure regulator and will need to put on injectors. Add a set of valve cover gaskets and need to find a new bolt.

I'm also trying not to look at these original coolant hoses and belts. Suppose a guy should clean up the runners, plenum, and throttle body as lots of black crap inside them???
Have a new cap and rotor, plugs have to reorder as 45TS were in there, and ordered 44TS which is for a carb 305 I guess

 

Wow great work on getting that bolt out ! You got the bolt, and didn't ruin anything else in the process, good job

Now, just a friendly suggestion, if the silver looking specks I see in this pic is metal dust from drilling the bolt you'd best get it cleaned out of there before you put it back together. Oh, and, as to the hoses/belts, just as well to do em now that your into it, VS having them fail when your out driving someplace

 

Yep, sucked all those up with the shop vac. Found a replacement NOS long Torx bolt on eBay. Also ordered up 4 belts along with a set of valve cover gaskets...

The hoses seem to be a bit of a mystery locating for the to throttle body/water pump as that's the one that seems to be seeping along with the upper and lower hoses. Could be the cheap OEM wire and tower clamps though too? The heater hoses are the other two for a total of 5 to replace. The coolant looks good in the radiator and nice and green.

 

Nice work so far, now would be a good time to do the TB coolant hose bypass especially if that hose is leaking. Cleans up that area and makes TB removal easier

 

Made a bit more progress on a couple more things and replaced cap and rotor. Cleaned up the valve covers, coolant and windshield jugs. The sway bar end links had literally crumbled into pieces. Disassembled the fuel injectors from the fuel rail and will start pulling it apart for new o-rings. There was a pretty cool 4 part YouTube video on this.

The previous owner had put on KYB GR-2 gas struts probably as an upgrade over stock, looks like the rear Bilsteins are in as see the yellow, will have to pull the rear wheels next. Threw some juice on the bleeder screws and looking at the front rotors they are either going to need to be sanded, turned, or replaced with the rust on them?

 

The rust will wear off the rotors in a few miles. If the calipers bleed and work just run it. A few stops and that will be gone in a hurry.

GD

 

Thanks GD, appreciate it and I'm also reconsidering doing the pump (ugh dropping the tank) after having another whiff of that bad gas dribble out of the front lines today. Plus the fuel rail internals seem to have a nice golden color which a guy could call varnish I guess, ima thinking that the pump was probably fully submerged for 25 years since I pulled about 7 gallons of fuel out of the tank

Delphi seems to be the one RockAuto carries, just want this to be turn-key when I throw the battery on it.

 

Get an AEM or a Deatschwerks fuel pump. Both are good and are turbine pumps so they are silent. The 255 or 320 LPH pumps are cheap and we use them all the time. Very reliable.

GD

 

I might have missed if you mentioned it in the thread already, but they sell an O-ring kit for the fuel rail and I highly recommend changing them out while you have the rail off.

My current '87 project IROC was also stored for a considerable amount of time and even though it sucked, I dropped the tank to make 100% sure it was good and that I installed a new fuel pump.

 

Thanks guys, yeah that tank looks fun as been watching a few videos and everyone has been really helpful on this forum. Doesn't look tough but just time-consuming. I bought some Standard Motor Products o-rings for the rail and lines to it from the part numbers in this video series -
Picked up a nice big can of Gumout to clean the rail up and will start disassembly. Gaskets, Torx bolt, and belts come this week along with injectors so will be able to start reassembly too...

 

[QUOTE=calidude;6413143]Doesn't look tough but just time-consuming. Picked up a nice big can of Gumout to clean the rail up and will start disassembly./QUOTE]

Yeah it takes a little time to change out all the gaskets and O-rings, but that's still a lot less time then if you didn't and have to tear the whole intake assembly apart again.

No joke I have had my TPI setup on and off my engine at least six times in the last six months between not liking the look and deciding to paint it gold, changing out the runners to a SLP set, replacing the injectors to 30lb/hr, and a few other issues lol!

 

Think one time is enough for a guy, six times yikes!

Cool that you went through near same revival as this varnish fuel is something. Cleaned the rails and glad I got Gumout as it chewed the varnish up.







need a couple of o-rings, one for cold start injector and the mount to the rail, hmm where to find those?

Also if there is some kind of “I changed plugs on the 305” certificate be happy to pony up. What a job of concentrating. My universal joint SK socket from back in the late 80s I used to change plugs in my 83 base V6 model saved the day!

Belts are partially done and waiting on the serpentine, original as all but the AC one said GM as think the compressor blew or a power steering hose at some point as the hood insulation was saturated, I was looking on the floor thinking it was the tranny and tanked the thing in the bin and will order another...

 

We have injectors!

closing in on reassembly and still need to clean the runners/plenum and throttle body



These are the rebuild findings as RC rebuilt them including the cold start

4 of them were closed shut

 

I've been following your videos on YouTube with interest, OP. Can't wait till you fire that rebuilt 305 up. Excited to see how your cam upgrade will perform.

Edited: Now I'm not 100% sure you're the same guy I've been watching on YouTube. Sorry if i got you mixed up with someone else.

 

If you didn't done it don't do it....

In other words, if it were mine I would try to run some clean, fresh, LOW octane (for several reasons) fuel through the tank and pump into a catch can. If you can get flow and it clears up, try to measure an amount over time to determine the free-flow pump rate. You can always drop the tank if necessary, but if the pump operates you can save a lot of labor and focus on other issues.

 

Yeah not on YouTube @DaveyDug that must be the other guy, lol... however the wife has been taking GoPro videos of what I've been doing with the car so maybe we'll start a channel.

Okay so @Vader you got me intrigued again as have no desire to replace the fuel pump but kinda just think it's gonna be junk city. I need help on this then as yeah I'm hankering to get this motor started and was going to start reassembling the rest intake and injectors tomorrow but still working on de-carbonizing the plenum and runners then was planning to work on dropping the tank.
Just got back from O'Reilly with an arsenal of chemicals; Purple Power, Simple Green, CRC Parts Cleaner (spray can) and another jumbo Gumout can.

How would a guy run the pump independently then without using the ignition circuit? Connect the battery directly to the pump or relay connection and disconnect the line from the fuel filter and tap into that?

Appreciate a step by step for a guy as I'm willing to give it a go as I have two 5 gallon tanks that I still need to drop off the old fuel in them