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What is the best oil for a high mileage 305??

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Old Jan 16, 2002 | 04:38 PM
  #1  
IROCME's Avatar
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From: N/a
Car: 1986 IROCZ
Engine: LB9....rebuilding coming soon
Transmission: rebuilt 700R4
What is the best oil for a high mileage 305??

One that burns oil on startup and during WOT there is a smell of burning oil after...what is the best one,or are there any additives to help reduce burning oil that ACTUALLY WORK???Cause I cannot afford a broken down engine in the next 6 months,damn colleg
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Old Jan 18, 2002 | 04:08 PM
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ede's Avatar
ede
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From: Jackson County
one that's changed often (3000 miles) along with a new filter. i use pennzoil for regular dino oil and mobil 1 and amsoil for synthetics.
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Old Jan 18, 2002 | 04:56 PM
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From: Orygun
If you can't afford a broken down engine I can only suggest to forget the whole WOT idea
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Old Jan 18, 2002 | 07:11 PM
  #4  
George's Avatar
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From: Stouffville, Ontario
Car: 83WS6TA
Engine: ZZ4
Transmission: TH350C
Axle/Gears: 3:23
I think tpi_roc kinda nailed it there. Just back out of the throttle for the next six months and you should by OK.
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Old Jan 20, 2002 | 12:19 AM
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
I got started using AMSOIL while in college (married with two children to boot). I didn't have any engine failures while in college, and I ran at Scribner during those years.

The only potential issues are high consumption due to existing wear and/or hard seals, and a dirty engine when you switch over (petroleum oils will leave sludge and varnish in an engine which synthetics will tend to loosen, contaminating the oil). If compression is good, most likely you just need to change the valve guide seals to keep consumption in control. The sludge and varnish can be flushed before switching to synthetic, or just change the synthetic as it gets dirty.

Even in a worn engine, the typical synthetic is cheap insurance against total engine failure.
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