...and of course, I can't seem to find a way to do so. There really is no way from the bottom either. I have used Liquid Wrench. So here are the tools I've used so far:

• box wrench
• open wrench
• offset box wrench
• spark plug socket (can't fit)

Problems are the socket can't fit onto the plug because of the headers (prefer not to take these off) and because of the location of the plug, I can't get to one side of it. Pictures show the issues. I guess I'll have the same issues when I put the new ones in.

Does someone have any other suggestions? I'm thinking of the crows foot wrench, but I'm not even sure about that. I would have to buy them to check, which seems to be my next step.

 

Wow, that seems kind of an odd design..... I don't think you could get a socket on that, even with the headers off...... That's gonna make that one fun to get out of there......

 

lol, yep. It makes no sense. I mean, someone put that sucker in and tightened it.

 

Probably gonna have to suck it up & remove the header, and then take a die-grinder to the metal around the spark plug so you can get a socket on it...

 

A short spark plug (SP) socket may work. I've cut down the length of a SP socket, then used a box or offset box wrench on the socket. They usually have a hex section on the end where the 3/8" drive goes.

RBob.

 

Interesting, but as you can see from the photo, I can't go around the spark plug fully. The left side is blocked by that bolt.

 

Yeah, I'd rather not go that direction, but I think it's going to be the only direction left. I have an idea for modifying a wrench to get in there, but who the heck knows if it will work. Gotta try it first.

 

I'm thinking an offset flexible crow's foot wrench might do it.

 

A through socket set with a curved handle will be your best friend for these a straight handle version does not work. Before I got the set I welded a socket to a box end wrench that worked too.

 

This was my official spark plug remover on my Firebird for a while similar issue because of headers. It's a half inch drive socket so the spark plug could get all the way through it and I bent the wrench back a bit more.

After I got the curved handle socket set from harbor freight I stopped using it unfortunately harbor freight doesn't make the curve handle version anymore.

 

Unfortunately, as I have mentioned before and what is shown in the picture, I cannot use a socket for this spark plug. There is no room to the left of the plug that would allow me to put in a socket. Great idea though!

 

Yeah, I'm going to give it a try. If that doesn't work, then I guess I'll have to take the headers off and cut a groove.

 

first time i post. dont know if im doing it right. this is how i take my spark plugs out. Get 5/8 plug socket that a place to use a box wrench on top. Cut socket length way from top from under where wrench goes to the bottom, cut it wide enough to where it will go over the white porcelain. then put the socket over the porcelain thru the side. and use the wrench on the socket. if plug is to tight and opens the socket use a water hose clamp around the bottom of the socket. hope this helps you.

 

Hey there! Yes, you've done it right. :-) Unfortunately, I'm not sure what you are describing.

 

And yes, you will have to grind the cylinder head for clearance no matter what you do.

 

Hes saying to cut a portion of a short spark plug socket away. If it starts to spread or break when trying to loosen just put a hose clamp around it to keep a tight grip on plug. Then you wont have to grind bolt down.

This is example pic

 

Ah. I had the same idea today when I saw those specialty sockets online so I went ahead and made my own. It fit the plug fine, but the plug is too close to that bolt and I couldn't do it because I can't turn it. If I turn it, it pops off a little. I'm already starting to strip the plug so I'm going to stop. I spent all day modifying the plug and a wrench I had. I'm just going to take the headers off. I was going to take some things off to give the engine a good cleaning anyway, so I might as well just do it! Thanks everyone for your ideas!

 

Snap the porcelain off and try again. That might give you some extra room to get a better bite on it.

The more I look at your pic, the more I think that this head has angle plugs, and someone made a repair to that hole and tapped it straight.
That plug hole should be right in the middle of the two lower head bolts. Are the other plugs straight? Maybe a PO severely cross-threaded that plug???

 

Yeah, something's not right...

 

Well, the others were the same angle. This is a rebuilt engine (350 to 383 stroked ). I'm not sure if something was done to it due to the rebuild. I know this is not normal place for one, but it's mine and I can either fix it or get rid of it. I've been working on this car for 2 years little by little and I'm getting tired. lol, I just want to drive it! On a side note, I did get the driver side header off after having to remove the oil filter. I decided to not continue today, as I've run out of swear words.

 

You have no idea how well I know the feeling!...

 

I could loan ya a few I have leftover from doing the Goddamned bearing hub on my other (non third gen) car the other day ......

 

Ha! I'll think I'll pass on that generous offer. I don't want to have a surplus of them because that means I have to work longer using more swear words! That just means I have to drink more beer...

 

+1 to drinking more beer.

 

Looking at how that plug is blocked in there, I am REAL curious how they even got it in there in the first place......

 

On the old air cooled VW engines the nut's that held the exhaust onto the head would round off from rust. I used an impact hammer to chisle the nut loose. Placed on the rounded edge and hammer counter clockwise untill the nut loosened. You could do that to get plug out and then have access to the area to grind enough to get a socket on the new plug. I ,too, am wondering how that was installed. Must have been done with an open end wrench while engine was out. I hope it ain't cross threaded like was previosly mentioned.

 

Once the headers were out, I was able to put a socket onto the nut pretty good. I then used a breaker bar to get it loose and the rest is history (until I have to change plugs again). So the removal of the headers allowed me to get a good look and realize that there was barely enough room. I put the plug back in so that I could take this photo. And yes, that's the same mother$#$#ing plug! lol

 

Well, at least you got it out...

 

Success!

Sorry if was mentioned and I missed it, but what cylinder heads are those?

 

Anti-seize and stay on the low end of torque spec. Stops headaches.

https://ngksparkplugs.com/en/resourc...g-installation

 

Dunno. The person I bought it from didn't know much about it and I don't want to pull the valve covers because of the dirtiness of the engine. I'm guessing that's where the identification is? I don't see much on the outside.