Hello,

Last night I installed a set of Bosch injectors from Southbay. I've never done them before, so im looking for some piece of mind.

I am waiting for a new bolt set and EGR coming in on Friday, so I can't get it fired up.

However I have the rail on, and eveverything buttoned up for it.

I reconnected the battery and turned the ignition "on", fuel pump primed... I didn't see any leaks...

Is this the best test one can do before putting together the rest of the intake?

Also I installed a new FPR from Southbay. Its adjustable, and ive never used one before.

Do you have to wait until the car is running to make adjustments? Or can it be done with a primed pump?

Thanks!

 

What PSI are you getting at the fuel rail? If you only did one ignition cycle, it's probably not up to full pressure. I like to try and get it up to at least 30-35 PSI to verify leaks, but yes essentially that is the best you can do without the engine running. The fuel pump activation deal via ALDL didn't work for me so I did it the lazy way and primed via 4-5 key activations. It should also be possible to jumper at the fuel pump relay if you don't want to mess around with the key.

I didn't bother to adjust fuel pressure until the engine was running. I set my regulator to what I thought was in the middle and ended up tightening it down some after the engine was running. Remember to set it with the vacuum line disconnected, and verify you're getting what you expect after you reconnect the vacuum line.

 

So I am having issues.

Everything is back together, there doesn't APPEAR to be any leaks...

The car wont start, I want to say vacuum related, but I can't see how.

I go to start it, it idles very high, I'd say around 4-5k and then instantly dies.

I don't know what to do, can anyone give me pointers on what to check, what I may have forgotten?

I installed a stock throttle body I recently purchased as well, it came with its own tps and iac sensors... I adjusted the tps, but I can't adjust the iac at the moment.

I've used all new gaskets all around, have a new egr, the throttle body, an adjustable FPR from southbay, and the bosch 3s from southbay as well...

Any help is appreciated, thanks!

 

If you haven't already double check all your vacuum lines to ensure they are connected. I had a similar thing happen to me and I had the wrong side gaskets on the front runner to intake manifold and that produced the same hard start and then high idle ( not as high as yours but it was an easy 2-3k rpm maybe more) but when I got close I could hear the vacuum leak. If you think this could be it just spray TB cleaner near that area and it will flare up right away, its an easy mistake to make.

There should not be any adjustment for the IAC other than the re-learn procedure that you can find in the how to section.

 

About the ONLY things that can cause this, would be the throttle being blocked wide open, or LOTS of MASSIVE vacuum leaks.

As far as pre-setting things so that it's somewhat in the ballpark when you finally do get stuff like ... blocked throttles and giant vacuum leaks ... all worked out, it depends on what injectors you actually used. There's more to it than "Bosch 3s". What CID is the motor? Which injectors are they? If they're the orange ones (the Frod 19 lb-ers) then set the FP a little toward the lower end of the "normal" range; i.e. the no-vacuum-line pressure at maybe 40 - 41 psi where 43 would be "normal". Expect to see 35 - 36 with normal (15psi ish) vacuum running idling properly hooked up. Once you get it started up and all the bugs worked out you can go to work on tuning it.