I recently got my car running and driving but I'm having a problem on a cold start with the car dying. If I just turn the key it starts then immediately dies. If I hold my foot on the throttle just a little for 3 seconds while turning over then let off the pedal then it idles just fine on its own, no stalling. If the engine is already warm then no problems at all. I've already put in a non-adjustable tps, new iac and cleaned the passage way of any build up, and made sure the idle screw was set appropriately. But now I'm left scratching my head. I do have the cold start injectors deleted but I've read before I took them out that theyre independent of the ecm in their control and others have deleted them with no problem. Does anyone have any ideas?

 

So you've done nothing to the tune, deleted the cold start injector, and are having problems with cold starts. Is that right?

 

Try adding to this table dependent on what coolant temp your startup is.

 

It is tuned for Bosch d3 injectors by tuned performance but other than that yes, you are correct.

 

The offsets are probably changed i don’t recall. Might have to experiment with the table posted. Honestly don’t recall do you have a burner is it a updated 27sf512 eeprom or stock prom in holder 2732

 

So do the fuel parameters need to be adjusted to take into account not having the cold start injectors? If so ill fill out your form on your site and have you do it, I dont have the equipment

 

Usually going from 86-88 tpi maf changing to 89 tune takes care of this issue.
85 I haven’t fooled around with much to refine cold start cranking . I do have a few of these older chips to try. Just need information like what temperatures it’s stalling at and I can try to add fuel to effected areas just not sure how much so it may or may not be an easy fix. Send me a email and I’ll try to assist. I’ve updated my website had a current problem but will help when I’m able.

 

I'll shoot you an email here in a bit and give you a run down, thanks for the help.

 

Update for anyone in the future with a similar issue. The culprit was a torn diaphragm in the fuel pressure regulator. I didn't have the typical symptom of fuel squirting out of the disconnected vaccum line but upon pulling the plenum it was evident that there was a wetness in it from fuel being sucked in. Fuel pressure would read zero at fuel pump prime and cranking until the car was turned over with throttle then fuel pressure would seem normal. Replaced the diaphragm and now fuel pressure is good in all conditions and turns over with no hesitation.

 

Great to hear it’s fixed