help me on confusion with fan switch?
help me on confusion with fan switch?
ok, i have a JET fan switch (not installed), u know the one that turns on the electric fan at 200 and off at 185. anyway, im at college so i dont have the stuff to put it in myself. So i went to a shop today to get it put in. but they tell me that if they put it in the location the instructions say, i will lose my temp. gauge. but i thought they were two separate sensors. please clear this up about where it goes
Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 311
Likes: 0
From: Saint Louis, MO, USA
Car: 91 Formula
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
If that's what the guy at the shop told you, he's retarded (to put it mildly). That fan switch you bought replaces the stock fan switch, as which Rockhound pointed out, screws into the passenger side of your intake manifold --- on the completely opposite side of the engine compartment from the temperature sensor sending unit, which sticks out of the driver's side (you can ID it by the unusual sideways slide-on connector it has.
It is not very complicated to change fan switches. Technically, you're supposed to drain all your coolant, BUT you can (1st, let your coolant cool down so that it won't burn you) just unscrew the old fan switch (it might be difficult to get loose at first, try some PB blaster on it ahead of time, a couple times) and quickly replace it with the new one, before too much coolant leaks out. Let the car run (warm) with the radiator cap off for a few minutes to let any air bubbles you introduced work themselves out, then add any necessary coolant to the overflow tank. Oh yeah, teflon pipe thread tape on the threads of the new sensor wouldn't hurt. Have fun.
(take my advice at your own risk... this is what I did on my car a while back, but someone else here may have some reason why this might not be the best way to do it...)
It is not very complicated to change fan switches. Technically, you're supposed to drain all your coolant, BUT you can (1st, let your coolant cool down so that it won't burn you) just unscrew the old fan switch (it might be difficult to get loose at first, try some PB blaster on it ahead of time, a couple times) and quickly replace it with the new one, before too much coolant leaks out. Let the car run (warm) with the radiator cap off for a few minutes to let any air bubbles you introduced work themselves out, then add any necessary coolant to the overflow tank. Oh yeah, teflon pipe thread tape on the threads of the new sensor wouldn't hurt. Have fun.
(take my advice at your own risk... this is what I did on my car a while back, but someone else here may have some reason why this might not be the best way to do it...)
Member
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 408
Likes: 0
From: Chesterfield, VA
Car: '86 IROC, black and sharp
Engine: 305 tpi, bone stock
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 pos w/rear db
Hey, I might be wrong, but I'd be afraid to put teflon tape (or any type of sealant) on that fan switch. The way I understand it, that fan switch makes a connection between the wire (carries 12 volts from the fan relay) to the engine block when the desired temperature is reached. Putting something between the switch and the block might keep it from getting a good connection (providing the fan relay with a ground to the block) and keep the fan relay from sending power to the fan motor.
Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 311
Likes: 0
From: Saint Louis, MO, USA
Car: 91 Formula
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
I can understand your concern, but I think you'll still get plenty of contact with all the sensor's metal surface (besides the threads) that is still in contact... mine is working fine. I don't know if the tape really matters, though - just a habit.
Originally posted by Z's r Best
Hey, I might be wrong, but I'd be afraid to put teflon tape (or any type of sealant) on that fan switch. The way I understand it, that fan switch makes a connection between the wire (carries 12 volts from the fan relay) to the engine block when the desired temperature is reached. Putting something between the switch and the block might keep it from getting a good connection (providing the fan relay with a ground to the block) and keep the fan relay from sending power to the fan motor.
Hey, I might be wrong, but I'd be afraid to put teflon tape (or any type of sealant) on that fan switch. The way I understand it, that fan switch makes a connection between the wire (carries 12 volts from the fan relay) to the engine block when the desired temperature is reached. Putting something between the switch and the block might keep it from getting a good connection (providing the fan relay with a ground to the block) and keep the fan relay from sending power to the fan motor.
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Originally posted by Eric
Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't the fan switch is in the head on the passenger side between 6 and 8, not on the intake manifold?
Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't the fan switch is in the head on the passenger side between 6 and 8, not on the intake manifold?
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 1,266
Likes: 4
From: Tallahassee, FL. USA
Car: 92 Camaro RS
Engine: 350 Crate Motor
Transmission: Tremec TKO
Axle/Gears: 10 Bolt 3.73
I'm not sure about other years, but on my 92:
1)The fan switch is in the passenger side head, between cyls #6 and #8.
2)The gauge sender is on the driver's side head,
between cyls #1 and #3.
3)The computer's coolant temp sensor is on the
intake manifold, next to the thermostat housing.
-Rich-
1)The fan switch is in the passenger side head, between cyls #6 and #8.
2)The gauge sender is on the driver's side head,
between cyls #1 and #3.
3)The computer's coolant temp sensor is on the
intake manifold, next to the thermostat housing.
-Rich-
Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 311
Likes: 0
From: Saint Louis, MO, USA
Car: 91 Formula
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by Eric
Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't the fan switch is in the head on the passenger side between 6 and 8, not on the intake manifold?
Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't the fan switch is in the head on the passenger side between 6 and 8, not on the intake manifold?
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