This was a hone & ring job done by a local shop. Would you run this?
Some obvious staining, vertical streaks & pitting that didn't clean up although the bores are still in spec they claim.

When I see stuff like this that didn't clean up by honing I feel it should go over whatever it takes be it .020 .030 etc.
Will this be an oil consumption issue at some point sooner or later?

 

I would not. That's pretty rough. Even worse, it has dished pistons.

 

If you can feel it with a fingernail, it's a no go.

 

To go to the trouble and expense of pulling that engine and then leaving the cylinder walls in that condition was a mistake; block should have been bored oversize and fitted with new pistons.

 

I didn't do it. The machine shop screwed up and didn't follow my instructions. Incompetent shop.

 

Maybe it's just my aging vision, your camera, or some combination, but is there still some ridge in those bores?

There is no doubt that it would run for a while. It's amazing how bad some engines are and still run acceptably. My guess is that it ring sealing and longevity might be in question.

How is the taper? It's a roller block, so it does have some core value. At least they didn't touch the deck.

 

That's my concern,,,,,oil consumption. May be ok for a while but how long? 1K miles? 2K? Less? Who knows. I SMDH that a shop would let this out the door even if there may have been some miscommunication involved as to what was supposed to be done.

There does appear to be a ridge but it is very slight. Can't really feel it much at all.

I don't have the correct tools to properly measure taper but I did some upper ring gap measurements on a few cylinders and they still fall into spec according to the 1987 shop manual........spec is 010-.025 and these were at .021.........so it does seem like the bores are ok, assuming they are actually still round.......just don't know how well this shop checked everything........I plastigaged a couple rod bearings and they are a little tight @ .0015 but still within spec according to the manual.

When you say at least they didn't touch the deck, is there a reason why it was a good thing? Are the TPI blocks known for something? I am new to SBCs.

 

Yup, oil consumption, and blowby as well. Imperfect separation between crankcase and combustion in a general way.

Looks to me like it'd burn oil from the get-go. Pretty seriously at that. Looks like it sat out in the rain for awhile.

By not touching the deck, at least they didn't do something that destroyed the block. You still have the chance to get it machined properly.

What's the bore diameter now? Where did this thing come from? Have you ever seen it run?

 

Standard bore. I don't have a bore gauge to measure it properly but using the feeler gauge method to measure skirt clearance and ring gap it is still within acceptable specs according to the shop manual. Cylinders may be oval for all I know, who knows. If it wasn't for the staining and pitting it would probably be ok for what I plan to use it for but as it sits I am hesitant to run it. Ain't getting any younger and I only want to do an engine swap once. I'm willing to have it redone properly but other machine shops I have contacted in my area (Chicago) are really backlogged.

Bought it used from an '87 IROC. Was told by seller it was a 67K mile car and that it ran ok. The crank was standard with all OEM bearings, original oil pump, timing set,etc. His claim could be true idk. Seems like it was a virgin engine.

I sent it out to a local shop to have rebuilt informing them to advise me as to what the bores looked like & measured out to be before doing anything. Ended up sitting there for months because they "forgot" it was there and most likely forgot what they were told to do. I didn't get a chance to unload and inspect it until after several days went by after paying for it and taking it home. Long story.....just a lot of wasted time and money. 10 months wasted and I am back where I started with this.

 

Aced it - The deck should still be square, if not true. I guess I should have elaborated, but the less that they did in the way that they did it, the better. It should still be a good core.

Not to defend anyone's actions or suppositions, but the shop that "forgot" the block may occasionally get requests to simply re-ring an otherwise decent block. Still, there's little excuse for not calling.

Did you check int eh Aurora/Plainfield area?

 

Then there is always the place in Arlington Frights / Rolling Ghettos, but they are usually pretty busy as well.

 

I'm open to suggestions for a competent shop who can do a simple rebuild on a sbc.Something near the NW suburbs of Chicago the better. Start naming names and I will check with them if you know of any.
Opel in Streamwood has a good reputation I hear but they are not taking in any completes right now only block & head work.
I tried Auto Machine in St. Charles but they are backlogged as well. AES in Elk Grove Village said they can do it for me in reasonable time but their reputation seems sketchy based on online reviews.

My go to guy moved to Texas and is willing to do it for me if get it to him. Of course that'll add cost to ship both ways but knowing it's in good hands may be worth it.

 

I was thinking of Fast Times as a possibility. Rolling Meadows still counts as a NW 'burb, I think.

 

Land Air Associates in Arlington Heights on Arthur did some 059 heads for me.
Don’t know how his health is now though.
Retired airline engine mechanic before he opened his own shop.

 

Not saying I recommend you run that,but I would be tempted to try that short block out just to see how it goes-I have ran similar in old pickups,etc with decent results The dished pistons are a performance demerit-engine probably came from a heavier capacity light truck,especially if it is 4-bolt mains.

 

'87 IROC