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Tech / General EngineIs your car making a strange sound or won't start? Thinking of adding power with a new combination? Need other technical information or engine specific advice? Don't see another board for your problem? Post it here!
Stole this engine a while back as a back up for 350 bucks smoking deal right. Guy said it was in an El Camino and was a ripper. Has some pretty sweet mods. Tore it down to see what was in it, Has the sweet slp runners, not sure what version, tb spacer, adjustable fpr, ported lower corvette intake, roller rockers, high pressure oil pump, bigger oil pan, has 0.30 pistons, it's a 2 bolt main, roller lifters so roller block, really don't know about crank or cam didn't tear it down any further. It's just been sitting, my plan was to slap some aluminum heads and make it 24x. So it had some 882 heads that I removed and scrapped but then read just recently that they are actually pretty good heads but oh well they are gone. I want to use some 113 corvette heads I picked up for 350 bucks the other day from a cool guy, Not sure if I over payed for the heads but I was planning to hit the junkyard and grab a set of these but prices have spiked at the local jy so I think i did pretty good, far as I can tell they are in good shape, I remember you could get an aluminum head for around 200 but now they are 350$ aluminum or iron. Everything went up. Heads have been sitting a while and I want to refurbish them without spending too much. They look pretty stock but idk about stock vette heads. My plan was to just go through the heads clean up the valves and just reassemble, I want to reuse the valve springs but if anyody can suggest some good cheap springs I will buy some new ones as I probably should. Far as inspecting the head I really don't know what to look for but the obvious stuff, I removed a valve yesterday and just checked for play in the valve guide and looked at the valve made sure it went up and down smooth, has a spacer at the bottom that the spring sits on and the valve stem seals looked good but I need to upgrade those. Can I get away with just cleaning everything and putting it back together with some new seals and springs and call it a day? assuming there is nothing wrong with the heads. I don't know what to look for at the valve seats other then the obvious haven't done much reading on rebuilding heads. The engine has some fel pro 1044 gaskets I want to reuse but not really sure about compression and stuff like that just hopping you guys could shed some light.
then read just recently that they are actually pretty good heads
Horse plop. Except for forced induction, where their large chambers are a benefit, and their crappy features matter less. Anybody that tells you that, you need to go to the junkyard and buy all the sets you can find, and empty their wallet into yours for em but don't laugh or gloat too hard while doing it.
I want to reuse the valve springs
Probably not a good idea unless you know EXACTLY what they are, how many miles are on them, and EXACTLY what cam is in the motor.
The "spacer" under the spring is a spring locator. It's beyond stuuuupid NOT to use something along those lines on aluminum heads; otherwise, the springs will cut right through the aluminum. You can re-use them if they're compatible with the correct spring installed height. An alternative in case they're too thick to allow the right setup is to use keepers that are offset, to gain some spring installed height.
good cheap
2 words that hardly belong in the same sentence, let alone the same thought. Because of course, everybody on here is going to come right on and tell you all about how you HAVE TO spend the ABSOLUTE MAXIMUM amount of money possible, since money is no object to anybody here. Don't be an a$$ and beat us over the head about "budget"; I can assure you, it costs ALOT more to cheeeeeep out and have something break and then have to clean up the mess AND do it right, than to just do it right in the first place.
That said, it's also not necessary to break the bank to get adequate valve springs for this kind of a project. One can get "good" valve springs in a reasonable price range, that also avoid the costs of additional machine work that some spring upgrades might require. Best path in that direction is, LSx springs such as https://www.texas-speed.com/p-9573-g...laced-ls6.aspx or https://www.texas-speed.com/p-6431-p...-pac-1219.aspx if you're not so tight your butt sqweeeeeks when you walk, which will require the Comp "adapter" retainers https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-787-16 and the keepers that go with them. I highly recommend installing "positive" type valve guide seals on all 16 valves; NOT the useless O-rings, NOT "umbrella" type; the "POSITIVE" type. Something like 2 sets of these https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-ss72527 although if the guides are already cut down to .500" or .530", as they may already be to accomodate the spring locators, you'll need the Comp Teflon seals, either 600 or 601 depending on the size. Set up the springs to 1.800" installed height. This setup will work with virtually any cam that an engine equipped like that one would be likely to have.
113 heads aren't "the best" stock heads by any means, but they're also far from "the worst". Other than Vortecs, which would open yet a whole other $$$ can of worms, you're not likely to find anything any better in the buzzard nest. Run em. Lap the valves, and if you can get a good pattern on both the valves and the seats, then they should be fine.
gaskets I want to reuse
This is a joke, right? You're a stand-up comic on Saturday nights? I'll take that as a yes.
Last edited by sofakingdom; Apr 3, 2024 at 02:18 PM.
Horse plop. Except for forced induction, where their large chambers are a benefit, and their crappy features matter less. Anybody that tells you that, you need to go to the junkyard and buy all the sets you can find, and empty their wallet into yours for em but don't laugh or gloat too hard while doing it.
Probably not a good idea unless you know EXACTLY what they are, how many miles are on them, and EXACTLY what cam is in the motor.
The "spacer" under the spring is a spring locator. It's beyond stuuuupid NOT to use something along those lines on aluminum heads; otherwise, the springs will cut right through the aluminum. You can re-use them if they're compatible with the correct spring installed height. An alternative in case they're too thick to allow the right setup is to use keepers that are offset, to gain some spring installed height.
2 words that hardly belong in the same sentence, let alone the same thought. Because of course, everybody on here is going to come right on and tell you all about how you HAVE TO spend the ABSOLUTE MAXIMUM amount of money possible, since money is no object to anybody here. Don't be an a$$ and beat us over the head about "budget"; I can assure you, it costs ALOT more to cheeeeeep out and have something break and then have to clean up the mess AND do it right, than to just do it right in the first place.
That said, it's also not necessary to break the bank to get adequate valve springs for this kind of a project. One can get "good" valve springs in a reasonable price range, that also avoid the costs of additional machine work that some spring upgrades might require. Best path in that direction is, LSx springs such as https://www.texas-speed.com/p-9573-g...laced-ls6.aspx or https://www.texas-speed.com/p-6431-p...-pac-1219.aspx if you're not so tight your butt sqweeeeeks when you walk, which will require the Comp "adapter" retainers https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-787-16 and the keepers that go with them. I highly recommend installing "positive" type valve guide seals on all 16 valves; NOT the useless O-rings, NOT "umbrella" type; the "POSITIVE" type. Something like 2 sets of these https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-ss72527 although if the guides are already cut down to .500" or .530", as they may already be to accomodate the spring locators, you'll need the Comp Teflon seals, either 600 or 601 depending on the size. Set up the springs to 1.800" installed height. This setup will work with virtually any cam that an engine equipped like that one would be likely to have.
113 heads aren't "the best" stock heads by any means, but they're also far from "the worst". Other than Vortecs, which would open yet a whole other $$$ can of worms, you're not likely to find anything any better in the buzzard nest. Run em. Lap the valves, and if you can get a good pattern on both the valves and the seats, then they should be fine.
This is a joke, right? You're a stand-up comic on Saturday nights? I'll take that as a yes.
Your killing me Sofa haha. Thanks for all your help. By cheap I mean inexpensive haha. Ive always had good luck in my wrenching endeavors thanks to all you great people on here. Ive learned a lot over the years here on Thirdgen.org and I appreciate you all, may peace be upon you all and God continue to bless everybody. What did the butt cheek tell the other butt cheek? Don't cross the line.
Horse plop. Except for forced induction, where their large chambers are a benefit, and their crappy features matter less. Anybody that tells you that, you need to go to the junkyard and buy all the sets you can find, and empty their wallet into yours for em but don't laugh or gloat too hard while doing it..
I removed all the valves on one head. The exhaust valves and seats all look good . But the intake valves sat with coolant in them causing pitting and rusting. The seats look good though, no pitting on them. Can I get away with buying new intake valves and lapping them? I lapped one of the intake valves that wasn’t rusted not sure if the pattern is good.
Last edited by maroe624; Apr 16, 2024 at 02:45 PM.
