Change of plans can anyone direct me to were a can find a long block replacement engine for 89 formula l98.
want it to work with the TPI.
would prefer new over remanufactured
looked a ton but not sure what will work with the TPI.

 

I would start by checking out all the threads here on this site. There are several including a few I have that outline heads and cams. I rebuilt mine over a year ago. In the end wanted to keep the TPI and I did but then I jump in my 5.3l LS truck with the Borla exhaust and think what could have been. My car runs good but it is likely a 330 rwhp car. Fun but not crazy quick. Don't forget your checkbook, neither will be cheap if done right.

1988 Pontiac Trans Am GTA

• L98 355
• Flat top pistons 10:1
• EGR delete
• 9th injector delete
• Lucas #24 injectors
• 52mm Throttle Body- bored by SPR Performance
• Custom 3D printed Cold Air Intake- K&N 4730XD filter
• AS&M Large Tube Runners
• Ported Plenum- gasket matched
• Ported Accel/Ligenfelter Intake- gasket matched
• Comp cam ultra pro magnum roller rockers 1.6:1- CCA-1602-16
• AFR Enforcer Heads 1006 195cc
• Crower 00482LM cam- Dur @ .050” Lift: 213°/221° RR: 1.5/1.5 Gross Lift: .505”/.525” LSA: 114° RPM: 1900 to 5900 Redline: 6400
• Howard roller lifters HRS-91164N
• Dyno Don Headers and Y-pipe
• Magnaflow 3” Universal Cat 94109
• Magnaflow SS Muffler 12267
• Hayden Rapid Cool Transmission Cooler HDA-687
• Stellar Auto -Built 700r4 Transmission
• Hughes 2500 stall
• Tuned by Tuned Performance

 

Cams that "Chop" don't work very well with TPI.

 

I second what @Airwolfe said. If you are sticking with TPI then you want a cam made for it. It likely won't "chop" like you think you want. See my thread on cams selection.

 

How do you plan to tune your new combination?

 

Not to go off topic, but who/where did your 3d printed intake? Got a pic of it? Thank you sir!

 

compression makes 'chop'
if you switch to an LS style computer you can tune and modify the engine to run a billion times better than the old 1990s ecus

But ill tell you in the long run, and from personal experience, you'll be better off switching to an LS engine.,

I can post pictures of my L98, 383 FIRST tpi engine sitting in the corner of the shop collecting rat poop., becuase a $1200 4.8/5.3 LS runs circles around it all day long, with the AC on..
If you are close to AZ ill sell it to you.

 

My brother and I designed and he printed it on his printer.

 

Technically it's valve overlap / reversion that makes chop, but compression does contribute to the race motor sound.

 

That choppy idle is really nice on a performance machine but hard to get dialed in with your EFI and auto transmission's torque converter. Your basic shortblock is a solid start, your stock heads aren't terrible, but the choke point is the TPI for performance. I'd think about a carb setup with an old school distributor.

 

That looks really good! Nice job

 

Before you go crazy with a rebuild, make sure the flexplate isn't the issue. I've got a pile of broken ones.

 

This looks great! You should sell them.

 

 

Who is this being addressed to? I assume OP but if its me, Tuned Performance is my tuner.

 

The person I originally quoted, who posted this thread.

 

Thanks will look into that

 

Finding new might be a problem. I think all you need is the 350 block that was used for TPI if you have all the other TPI parta. There are tons. The part number is floating around here all over the place. 2 bolt main was used along with roller cam. I'm guessing, if you get the part number, all will bolt right up. I know these guys have them. Here is an example, not sure if this is the correct part # tho.

https://www.mabbcomotors.com/catalog...orged-pistons/
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...bers-92-a.html

 

Brand new short block
https://sdparts.com/i-24532101-chevr...50-engine.html

Rebuilding your short block would keep your car numbers matching and generally be much cheaper. Have a good machine shop give it a freshen up, you'll be good to go.

 

TPI and L98 heads bolt up to that?

 

yikes, I looked into the zz shortblock last year and there were only 2 left in the dealer network. Price shot up 20% too.

 

why wouldn't it bolt up? Not being snarky, just it's a 350, they're all pretty interchangeable with heads except for gen 2.

 

Yup, just a 87-current sbc and it's what i put in my JY 92 formula

 

^^X2. It's a Gen I SBC.

 

Ya I knew you did, but if I recall you had to drill some holes for accessories or something. And of course, your not using the normal TPI system.

 

I guess I should define bolt on. Basically transfer everything, all the mounts for a/c, p/s/ all that garbage that would go into a loaded TPI car. Will it all bolt right on? I've read some blocks require a hole to be drilled for accessories. I think some people have had trouble transferring vortec blocks over to a TPI system, EGR or something but maybe that was head related.

 

Just 1 hole in the corvette 113/zz4 head so i can use f-bod bracket.
end of the day, its just a gen 1 roller cam 1piece rear seal sbc

 

^Exactly.


It's HEAD related. Correct. Everything that came off of the car's original short block, will bolt on to the SD/ZZ4 short block...or any Gen I Chev small block, short block. Everything. TTop chose to change the heads -as part of his swap. The head that he chose (the head that comes on a "ZZ4"), required a hole drill & Tap. The head change, not the short block. If one were to swap to 113 heads on to the original short block that came in the car, they would also, have to drill the same hole in the 113 head, for the same reason.


*Vortec swaps: Again, that is a HEAD SWAP issue (not a problem, just something to address), not a block swap issue. You can use a Vortec short block, easy-peasy, under TPI heads, intake, valve covers, etc. and never know that the short block WAS a Vortec short block, b/c you are reusing your not-Vortec heads....which bolt right on to a Vortec block, no drilling or tapping. The Vortec block isn't really much of a "Vortec" block, however, once you take off the Vortec heads. Once the heads are gone, it's basically a typical roller cam, one piece, Gen I short block.