Well, here is an update, My buddy's garage has spent the day on my problem and has arrived at the same problem as I have. Everything checks out good but can not explain why no fuel at spark plugs they are completely dry.
I cleaned the injectors, had a strong spray, I installed them back in the fuel rail, and barely any fuel came out.
I'm thinking injectors or computer?

 

How did you observe that they "had a strong spray"? The way that I suggested?

 

I took the fuel rail off the engine and removed the injectors.I made a tool that I could spray carb cleaner into the injector, hooked up a 9v battery, as I sprayed into the injector I connected the 9v battery which opened the clicker in the injector and was able to get a very strong cone type spray out of the injector, I did all 8 injectors this way and had a strong cone type spray. I re-installed the fuel rail with all the injectors, cranked engine over, and barely any fuel came out of the injectors. Kind of disappointed I thought I would get a good cone type spray, but hardly anything. That's when I decided to bring the car to a friends garage, they tested everything but same result: no fuel at the spark plugs.
Could it be injectors or the computer?
Car is back home and will work on it Sunday,

 

Sounds like that was a pretty valid test. Can you hook up a scan tool and watch the injector pulse width in data stream or live data?

 

Not an expert, but I think it might be the computer. The injectors work when the computer is not part of the equation. When you put the computer back into the equation, the problem resumes (crank engine with injectors reinstalled, depending on computer to open injectors, and do whatever else the computer does for it, and they don't work). Not an expert, just a guess. The scanner idea sounds useful, but I guess they already hooked up a scanner to it at your friend's shop ?

 

I'm not equipped for scanning, I also think it could be computer. I'm going to try with a LED light at the injector plug and see if it pulses as I crank, if pulses are weak or intermittent, I would think computer related.
No I don't think they hooked up a scanner.

 

Easier to buy a noid . But a led with approximately 220-ohm resistor might work.

 

Rosco, How's it going ?.

 

Not going good, 12 beer 26oz of rum (dark) and she still won't talk to me, I replaced the computer and nothing has changed, well at least I have a spare computer. I bought a fuel pressure test kit and I have 42lbs at the rail I'm happy about that I also bought a noid light and it seems that I have no pulse from the driver side injectors, passenger side is good. I did have to replace the fuse near the battery, for some reason it blew. I'm just took the ECM out and was surfing to see if that can be tested. Is it the computer that controls injectors or ECM ? Good thing I have time on my side (retired).
Thanks to all that have responded to my issue and all have a great day.
Rosco

my bad again. Not ECM I meant ICM

 

Aren't they the same thing?

 

The ecm shares a common injector driver, fuse 1 and 2 are both good in the fusebox by the drivers side kick panel ?

 

26 ounces of rum all at the same time, I assume?

Well, you can't give up now after all this time and effort.

I thought the ECM (electronic control module) and the ECU (electronic control unit) and the computer were all the same thing. I think the computer does control the injectors, someone correct me, if not.

Since your driver side injectors aren't getting a pulse, I wonder if some wire wasn't reconnected when they put the engine back together.

 

Your right on that. GTA88, I actually meant the ICM.
I checked the 2 fuses and their good.
Looks like I'm back on wire patrol.
Thanks for all your help.

 

even if you have spark the icm could be bad. Have you tried the noid with all injector plugs disconnected ? All it takes is a short on one injector to shut the driver down.

 

No I haven't (Tuned Performance), but I will try that next, good information

 

test

 

This just might be the longest, "Crank/No Start" thread in the history of thirdgen.org.

Any progress to report, OP?

 

Hey guys, Still not running but I may have found the problem, short refresh I bought this yellow 87 IROC with 5.7 the snout on the crank had broken off I bought the car and was going to replace the crank. I pulled the engine and replace the crank,new bearings ,new timing chain and oil pump, my buddy replaced timing chain and set timing gear and crank dot to dot I installed the timing cover and reinstalled the motor back in the car, This is when the saga began, the engine would turn over and wanted to start but never did after many countless days of changing electronic, double and triple checking the wiring nothing, motor would turned over farted a few times but never started, I took the plenum and runners off to check the injectors and clean them, again same result nothing its now been 2 months trying to get it to run, a friend who owns a garage said bring it to me I'll get it running for you, did that, same old story nothing, trying to stay motivated I removed the intake to clean it up ordered new intake gaskets was about to install it when I noticed a bent push rod checking all of them I found 3 more bent push rods. I had this happen before when my timing chain had jumped. I decided to take the timing cover off, Well my buddy who is 80yrs. young and has worked on many motors and is currently driving his SS/BA 64 dodge 426 hemi with 2x4 's clone had not lined up the crank and cam gear correctly the crank "o" in this case was one tooth from 12 o'clock and the cam dot was at 2 o'clock WTF. I wanted to know what happened, I put #1 cyl at TDC, I put the cam dot at 12 o'clock and checked the crank dot it was at the "R'',I called my buddy to pass by and explain this, The crank gear has 3 letters in a triangle R,O.A when he did this he didn't have his glasses on and mistakenly thought the R was O and put the "R" at 12 o clock, that was 2 days ago so now I'll be putting this back together and this IROC is going to rock again. I know the injectors are doing their thing I dumped the oil to check for gas and had lots of gas mixed with the oil, I flushed the engine twice and hope everything will be good.
As EDGE mentioned in post 29 "Are you absolutely, without a doubt certain your cam timing in relation to your crankshaft was correct? The timing dots on the gear set is lined up correctly?" Apparently Not ,good call.
I'm 74 my rides are 31 Model A 5 window all steel full fender 327ci 3x2,9'' 4 disc brake,my other ride 72 Z28 327ci .30 over with AFR 195 heads 5 speed TKX owned since 1990 and my new addition 87 IROC.
Thanks to all that posted, A great bunch. Thanks Rosco

 

So as I mentioned in my last post. Timing gears were not lined correctly, pulled T-cover off re aligned the dots did a lot of cleaning in the engine area and she fired right up. Just luck that I decided to take the intake off and noticed some bent push rods. Super happy and Thanks for everyone's help
Happy Thanksgiving to all.
Rosco
1987 Camaro IROC 5.7l auto in yellow gold.

 

Thanks for updating us, and congratulations! So it runs OK with the bent push rods?

 

All push rods have been replaced with new ones, valves re-adjusted replaced all of the o-rings in the fuel rail and injectors.