89 Firebird with four wheel disk brakes.
Almost new discs and pads all around.
cable extends to approx 13 clicks before resistance (normal as far as I remember from the Haynes book) but it won't hold the car AT ALL. I pull the level as much as it will go (feels like the pads are grabbing) but it doesn't hold the car at all. Because it does feel like it's grabbing, I don't think I need to adjust the adjuster that the two cables bolt to. Is there something that can be done at the caliper?? or .. do I need to tighten up the adjuster under the console near the drive shaft.

Thanks for you input!

 

I'd like to know as well--my ebrake is just there for looks, too.

Edit: 91 Formula WS6 with drum rear

 

Steve,

You '89 should have the newer design calipers. 13 clicks on the E-brake handle before engagement sounds way too sloppy. My '86 TA (older rear calipers) does 2-3 clicks before I feel resistance and about 7 clicks before total lockup of the rear wheels.

Of course, the calipers have to be in good condition, and the park levers, pivots, park collars and springs have to be clean and free to move. The clamping shoe rod can be sticking in the hydraulic piston, and that needs to be free as well. But beyond that, if the hand lever has to be moved that far, the cable is way too slack or a caliper is stuck. The park brake should fully engage before the handle is even at the 45° position from vertical, or probably 7-10 clicks.

The factory specification for setting the cable free travel is that all cable slack should be taken up and the levers adjusted to provide a .025-.028" clearance between the park levers on the calipers and the caliper housings. The procedure is fairly involved and it would be very helpful to have a manual for reference when you do this.

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Cort,

As for your problem, depending on your car, the procedure may be different. If you have an '89 or later ThirdGen, the above information applies. If you have the older caliper design, the park brake was totally different and has it's own particular procedures.

 

Thanks for your input Vader. Firstly, I'll take off the rear wheels and examine the pad wear to see if any of the two calipers are seized. The Pads and rotor were put on less than 3,000 miles ago. If the wear looks normal, then I'll try tightening the nut on the adjuster to pick up some of the slack in the cable. There's quite a bit of room for adjustment still. I'm not sure if I have the older or newer style rear calipers. The springs are visible on from the rear of the car (someone put those vinyl cable tie downs on them for some reason).

Thanks for the input!

 

i have a 88 gta w/ disc all around, i had problem with the emer. brks before also doing about the same thing yours is doing, try adjusting your emer. cables at the driveshaft, and also check where the two cables are at the adj. there are 2 supports that hold the cables up off the drive shaft. make sure they are secured in those supports. mine had fallen out of them.

 

Steve,

When you have the rear wheels off, have an assistant operate teh brake lever while you watch the lever on the backs of the calipers. The levers should move freely and come to a stop off the caliper housing.

 

Hey guys,
I tightened up the adjuster so that the hand brake begins to feel tensioned up around 4-5 clicks and won't go anymore than 7-9. Problem is, it still doesn't hold the car. The levers are moving freely and I have cleaned and lubbed both sides. The levers push on a kinda 'pushrod' that pushes up against a piece that pushes the brake pad onto the disc. It seems to be pushing on it fine..but just without enough force. Are there any adjustments to be done at the Caliper itself? I have a feeling someone tried to screw around with these calipers before.
Also, when I operate the levers at the caliper by hand, it looks like the spring is hitting a piece of the mount it attaches to...I wonder if this is stopping the tension from going to the pads...
There must be some adjustment I can do at the caliper...

Anyways, thanks for any help in advance.

Steve

 

Steve,

There is an adjustment procedure for the "at rest" position of the levers on the caliper, but it is pretty involved and you really should have a diagram of the caliper to do it correctly. I'll see what I can find.

 

i just put a 9-bolt in my 89 formula from a 88 gta and i had the same prob with the ebrake. i bought new cables and its all adjusted. it hold the car but it moves fairly easy if i give it any gas. what is normal operation for the e-brake? shoudl the car move at all? oh yea its a disc rear. when i pull the lever it goes up like 10-12 clicks but its real tight and hard to pull up. any1 know wuts uup? also when i put it in gear and give it gas how much till it should move?

 

Hi Guys... After taking a real good look at my calipers, I've disovered a few things.
1. The caliper levers push on a 'rod' that is NO WHERE near as long as it should be to make things work right. If I adjust the cables so that the levers sit 'just off' the stop, it will be 10-14 clicks till I feel any resistance...car still won't hold AT ALL though.

2. I tighten up the cables, levers as a result are .25inch+ off the stops (should be ~ .025). Parking brake feels normal now...4 to 5 clicks before resistance...still won't hold car at all.

Conclusion: Whether the cable is tightened up to pick up the slack or left loosened up .. It really doesn't matter AT ALL. The caliper levers still engage the 'rod' at the same spot (VERY LATE IN THEIR TRAVELS). Whether it is 12 clicks or 5...the same amount of pressure is exerted onto that 'rod' before the caliper lever maxes out and hits the other end. Once it feels like the brakes are starting to engage slightly....the caliper lever is already maxed out all the way and hitting the other side. The only way I can think of correcting this problem would be to use a longer 'rod'.

Does this make any sense..cause that's the way it is.
WTF, it's a damn parking brake. I've got rotten aerowings and rust to worry about... Why did GM make these cars without the slightest thought of crastmanship and engineering.

 

Steve,

It sounds like your calipers need some attention. I've emailled a diagram rather than post it, since not all of use have 60" monitors.

The calipers may not require new seals, but they should be cleaned, lube applied to the guide pins, and the park brake clamp rod should be cleaned and checked so it moves freely through the piston. When all that is done and the calipers are reinstalled, continue:

1. Remove the park brake cables completely from the caliper levers, then remove the lever return springs;

2. Have an assistant apply the brakes to take up all the slack and "set" the brake pads and calipers;

3. Check the clearance between the caliper lever and caliper housing (where the lever rests in the relaxed position). You should have 0.026" of clearance, +/-0.002". That's a pretty tight specification, but critical to proper preload and operation;

4. If the clearance is correct, the cleaning alone has solved the problem, and you can reinstall and adjust the slack of the cables. If the clearance is not correct, go to step 5;

5. Remove the brake lever adjusting screw and clean off the Loctite with a wire brush. Apply some fresh Loctite 242 or equivalent and reinstall the screw loosely;

6. Screw the adjuster in far enough to get the specified 0.026" clearance at the lever in the relaxed position;

7. Have your assistant release the brake pedal, then cycle the brakes firmly for 3-4 cycles to flex and reset the caliper position;

8. Recheck the specified clearance and adjust as required to obtain the 0.026" gap.

9. Reinstall the lever return springs and park brake cables, then adjust the cable slack.

After this you should have a substantial parking brake. It is important to set this clearance with pads that are in good condition, since pads that are worn at a taper will alter the gap and skew the adjustment. If your pads are relatively new, you should be O.K.

 

For anyone else interested, here is a 1/4 sized diagram - you can see why I didn't want to post it. If anyone needs it, my email link is at the top of most pages:

 

Vader,first off...thanks for all your help.

I have a feeling the CLAMP ROD (NOT THE PUSH ROD) is sticking. Can I clean it out without pulling the piston out?
Does the clamp rod move freely from the piston? If so, then that may be my problem...even though the side where the pushrod hits does appear to move. Should the entire clamp rod move outwardly in a straight-fashion 'cause mine only pushes on the side of the pushrod. It must be stuck in there. Can I get to it and clean it out without removing the pistons from the calipers?

Just called my local guy who gets me good deals on parts. He says he can get me the calipers rebuilt for $65 CDN each with the core. I think I'll go ahead and pull them off tonight and get the rebuilt ones. Don't mind spending the 120 if they're going to work right.

 

Steve,

If you study the diagram, you'll see that the clamp rod (#28) and push rod (#22) are suspect. They should both slide out of the caliper once you have the pads ouf of the way, and should move freely through the piston. This means that the piston does NOT have to be removed to take out the park brake clamp rod, but be careful not to force it out when trying to slide the clamp rod out of it.

This is another excellent place for anti-seize compound (other than on my pancakes, as my wife says I'd do behind her back). Remove any rust and galling, apply some anti seize to the mating surfaces, and reassemble. Just clean everything so the parts move freely.

 

Hi Vader, (and the rest) I finally got a chance to remove the caliper and check it out. I removed the brake pads. When I pull on the clamp rod, it moves forward (with the rubber boot intact) rather easily. This isn't where my problem lies.
The lever that pushes the push rod doens't seam to be allowing enough travel for the clamp rod to engage the pad onto the disc. The clamp rod seams to be too short..or, the lever itself isn't 'shaped' properly to push the pushrod enough. with the piston ALL the way in (my pads and rotors are like new), the clamp rod moves very little and only if I, by hand, push the lever it's entire lenght of travel (yes, it is a hare away from hitting the other side. Only then will it engage...and even then, it doesn't move it nearly enough.
When tightening the bolt adjuster for the cables, the levers move off their stops...I'm guessing this is normal. To achieve the specification of 0.025" or "Just off the stop', the parking brake will engage around 13 clicks. Either way, this lever/rod combination still does not push the clamp rod enough at all.
Any thoughts?
S

 

Hi Sorry to dig up an old thread,reading you post it is EXACTLY same deal..... having the parking brake issue after putting on remanufactured calipers (Cardone) from AutoZone. Just bought this car about a month ago....Car was sitting for 24 years in garage, 80k miles...frozen calipers in rear....1989 GTA 5.0 5 Speed 3.45 gears. (9bolt) Everything looks right, but went from a working emergency brake to pulling lever straight up, parking brake arm travelled to stop at calipers, and no parking brake. Tried the adjustment in the shop manual, no change. cables are actuating the rear levers like they should however no resistance felt in car brake lever as it clicks a dozen plus times vs like 4. Unfortunately I took my original cores back, with the parking brake spring-levers. What was the solution, as everything you describe in your post is what I see/think...rod too short, etc. Any insight would be greatly appreciated...spent the entire day getting nowhere with the issue/ Thanks

 

For anyone who stumbles into this issue.....Looks to be defective Cardone remans...replaced with same (warranty), and E-brakes works albeit many more clicks than before the caliper change. Not sure what was cause, but suspect internal bad build to the floating calipers. Called Cardone and that is what they said and proceeded to warranty out, howver just called AZ and they overnighted two replacements. Not in warehouse...two different stores....must be less of these out there? Odd that it was both and wish I kept the cores...

 

With parts for 30+ year old vehicles becoming more scarce, cores are only going to get more valuable. There are limited options in the aftermarket for rear calipers with parking brakes integral to the caliper, and switching to the later version drum park brake might not work so well on a 9-bolt housing.

 

Just did a pbr caliper swap onto my 9bolt 3.27 gears from my 87 gta, because the ebrakes never worked. if you left it in neutral the car would roll down the hill after like 30 minutes of sitting.

New (remand) calipers, new pads, new rotors, new ebrake cables new brake hoses, new brake fluid.

Left side At rest

Left side ebrake engaged

Amount of travel inside till you cant pull any more die to the springs on both sides are fully compressed. Ill get right side pics tomorrow.


I finally got all the tools and parts to do the swap and the ebrakes still dont work properly.

The first set of calipers I got from autozone, the left side ebrake free travel adjustment screw was seized, it bent my 3mm allen key bad. So I replaced it with another caliper from autozone that had been sititng in a box in my storage for 20 about years.

This one acts odd, i bled the brakes, pumped them up to take up the slack, had my wife step on the pedal lightly till the rotor stopped turning, the free travel was too tight, i set it to .026" and it worked great. Problem is every time the ebrake is pulled the driver side free travel gets large and larger until like 20x later and it like resets. Like a ratcheting effect. As soon as the first time the free travel gets larger the ebrake no longer works on that side.

Passenger side works everytime but free travel is very large, I cant get the caliper free travel anywhere near the .026" and the metal plate with the springs attached to it is crooked af.

Another thing is i used 1990 to 1992 ebrake cables so they would fit my 1985 frame and work with the 1988/1997 pbr calipers. They have springs on the end that go to the caliper and the right side compresses that spring to the max. Again it does work though, Just nothing about it looks right or is to spec.

Amy ideas? bad calipers?