Cranking, crank, crank, varoom
Cranking, crank, crank, varoom
When my car is Cold, the engine cranks and cranks and cranks then it get a very low idle and sometimes dies. If i pump the pedal it starts faster and they I have to idle it up to 1500 RPM for the first few seconds......?????? I have TPI, I thougt pumping the pedal didn't do nethings. NE it is embarrsing as hell. When it warm, above 120 or so it starts fine. I hav new plugs, wires and not sure about the cap and rotor. How much are the Cold Start injector sensor things?
6spd,
You're right - "pumping" the throttle doesn't really do anything on an EFI system. Flooring the throttle (over 4.0VDC from the TPS) will cut off fuel pulses to clear a flooded condition, but "pumping" does nothing since the system doesn't have an acellerator pump.
The 1988 model year was the last for the cold start valve (injector). If your injector is not working, it could be a fulty injector, bad electrical connection, or failed cold start module. The cold start module is located in the coolant crossover on the front of the intake manifold, just next to the CTS. This control gets voltage from the cranking curcuit, adn will provide a timed signal to the cold start injector of up to eight seconds depending on the coolant temperature. It also has a timer that will not allow a second cold fuel cycle within a fixed time, so that extended or repeated cranking will not flood the engine.
Check the wiring at the connectors for both this control and the injector. Meter the voltage at the injector while an assistant cranks the engine when cold. You should find something like 10-12 VDC for a short period, again depending on coolant temperature.
You're right - "pumping" the throttle doesn't really do anything on an EFI system. Flooring the throttle (over 4.0VDC from the TPS) will cut off fuel pulses to clear a flooded condition, but "pumping" does nothing since the system doesn't have an acellerator pump.
The 1988 model year was the last for the cold start valve (injector). If your injector is not working, it could be a fulty injector, bad electrical connection, or failed cold start module. The cold start module is located in the coolant crossover on the front of the intake manifold, just next to the CTS. This control gets voltage from the cranking curcuit, adn will provide a timed signal to the cold start injector of up to eight seconds depending on the coolant temperature. It also has a timer that will not allow a second cold fuel cycle within a fixed time, so that extended or repeated cranking will not flood the engine.
Check the wiring at the connectors for both this control and the injector. Meter the voltage at the injector while an assistant cranks the engine when cold. You should find something like 10-12 VDC for a short period, again depending on coolant temperature.
Ok thanks, I will try to fix the CSI. If I find 10-12 volts that means that I will probably need a CSI it self but if I don't find that or just really short burst then it is probably the CSI Sending Unit.....where can I get this items?
I check for it last night.....nada....nothing was being sent to the injector. So probably the S.U. then huh? How much do these cost? If I don't get a reply buy the end of school I am just gonna go see if the parts store even has one.
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6-Spd,
If you are not getting voltage to the injector, the injector itself is probably O.K. Trace backward to the cold start control at the front of the intake. It should have a three-wire connector. There are two sensors adjacent to each other. One has a two-wire connector with a yellow and a black wire - you want the other sensor.
The circuit gets power from the IGNITION circuit and a signal from the cranking circuit. The sensor determines the coolant temperature and time since the last injection pulse, then operates the cold start valve (injector) according to those inputs. If you have IGN power at the device, and get a CRANK signal whne an assistant operates the starter, you can presume that the control is not sensing coolant temperature correctly or will not time correctly. In either case, there is no repairing the unit, and replacement would be the likely solution. If one of the signals is not present, you need to check beyond the device to the other wiring.
If you are not getting voltage to the injector, the injector itself is probably O.K. Trace backward to the cold start control at the front of the intake. It should have a three-wire connector. There are two sensors adjacent to each other. One has a two-wire connector with a yellow and a black wire - you want the other sensor.
The circuit gets power from the IGNITION circuit and a signal from the cranking circuit. The sensor determines the coolant temperature and time since the last injection pulse, then operates the cold start valve (injector) according to those inputs. If you have IGN power at the device, and get a CRANK signal whne an assistant operates the starter, you can presume that the control is not sensing coolant temperature correctly or will not time correctly. In either case, there is no repairing the unit, and replacement would be the likely solution. If one of the signals is not present, you need to check beyond the device to the other wiring.
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