ZZ4 burning oil
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Joined: Jun 2001
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From: Hurlburt Field, Florida
Car: 1991 Z-28
Engine: 350 SBC
Transmission: Probuilt 700R-4
ZZ4 burning oil
I have a ZZ4 with a TPI on it. Only has about 8000 miles on it. I can drive on a tank of gas for about 230 miles and it uses about 3/4 quart of oil every time. Is this because of the low tension oil rings they use? And you guys think 2 pcv would help. Right now it only has one and a breather. Thanx.
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From: Key West, Florida!
Car: 89RSconvtZZ4TPI
Engine: ZZ4TPI
Transmission: 700R4 TRIPP TRANNY
Is it burning or leaking? My ZZ4 leaks some from the front and rear oil pan seal. I've also heard of that composite (plastic junk) timing chain cover cracking behind the water pump and dripping oil. Any puddles in the driveway?
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Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 296
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From: Hurlburt Field, Florida
Car: 1991 Z-28
Engine: 350 SBC
Transmission: Probuilt 700R-4
no puddles. It may only be my imagination but it really only seems to burn/leak when i'm on the highway at high speed or really beating on it. I'll look better for leaks though.
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From: Key West, Florida!
Car: 89RSconvtZZ4TPI
Engine: ZZ4TPI
Transmission: 700R4 TRIPP TRANNY
If not I'd get it back to the dealership since it's under warranty
Noticed the APO AE address. What branch of the service you in?
I did 20 in the NAV.
Noticed the APO AE address. What branch of the service you in?
I did 20 in the NAV.
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Couple of possibilities to consider:
1) Intake base isn't mounted correctly. It not only must seal for air, but oil as well. If something is askew with one of the port gaskets, you'll suck oil right out of the lifter valley and into the cylinders.
2) The ZZ4 valve covers don't have baffles. If you don't have the right (or properly working) PCV valve, you can again suck oil right into the cylinders.
1) Intake base isn't mounted correctly. It not only must seal for air, but oil as well. If something is askew with one of the port gaskets, you'll suck oil right out of the lifter valley and into the cylinders.
2) The ZZ4 valve covers don't have baffles. If you don't have the right (or properly working) PCV valve, you can again suck oil right into the cylinders.
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Joined: Jun 2001
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From: Hurlburt Field, Florida
Car: 1991 Z-28
Engine: 350 SBC
Transmission: Probuilt 700R-4
I'm in the Air Force stationed over in England. The intake is seated properly. The engine has around 8000 miles on it so the rings should be seated, low tension oil rings really shouldn't be used for the street, I dunno why they put them in the engine. I'll have to keep track of it more, I filled it up with 20W-50 so lets see if it still burns.
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8k miles don't guarantee seated rings btw.
If seating is not an issue maybe you have the same problem that I had. During the first 10k on my ZZ4 the engine was running too cold (winter time). I had a 160 tstat, Hypertech 170 fan switch, Stewart pump and a brand new radiatior. The temp rarely got up to 160°. For that reason everytime I romped on it I left large clouds of blue smoke. Oil consumption naturally was up too. Changing tstats (imo) is a pain so in colder weather I just slide a 12" sheet of cardboard down blocking about half of my radiator. Temp runs a fairly constant 180° now. When it gets above 75° I take 30 sec and pull the sheet out. The oil problem went away.
If seating is not an issue maybe you have the same problem that I had. During the first 10k on my ZZ4 the engine was running too cold (winter time). I had a 160 tstat, Hypertech 170 fan switch, Stewart pump and a brand new radiatior. The temp rarely got up to 160°. For that reason everytime I romped on it I left large clouds of blue smoke. Oil consumption naturally was up too. Changing tstats (imo) is a pain so in colder weather I just slide a 12" sheet of cardboard down blocking about half of my radiator. Temp runs a fairly constant 180° now. When it gets above 75° I take 30 sec and pull the sheet out. The oil problem went away.
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From: Fort Wayne, Indiana, U.S.A.
Car: CTS-V & 89 Z28 vortech charged
Engine: LS6 & 383 charged stroker
Transmission: 6-speed & 5 speed
two questions:
1. Did you break engine in on conventional oil or synthetic?
2. How does your ZZ4 run with a TPI on top of it, I have often thought of doing that swap.
Thanks.
1. Did you break engine in on conventional oil or synthetic?
2. How does your ZZ4 run with a TPI on top of it, I have often thought of doing that swap.
Thanks.
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Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 296
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From: Hurlburt Field, Florida
Car: 1991 Z-28
Engine: 350 SBC
Transmission: Probuilt 700R-4
I broke it in with regular oil. I did notice that you get that burning oil smell when I get on it only. I actually think that the valve cover is leaking. It runs great with TPI. I have a smaller cam in it, only 209 duration with about .474 lift. It has alot of low end torque and runs good. But i'm gonna be puttin in a X-treme energy cam with 224/230 duration at .500 lift. Hopefully i'll get about 380-400 hp. We will see. Later guys.
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Joined: Nov 1999
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From: Hopewell Jct., N.Y.
Car: 84 Z28 Camaro
Engine: 350ci
Transmission: T-5
Hey Lounge or anyone else, I have the same temp mods, 160
stat, fan switch, Mildon water pump, new radiator and my engine
also runs very cool. Its a brand new 350ci/350hp crate motor with 380 miles on it and its also burning a lot of oil, probably through the rings. So what is the connection ?????
stat, fan switch, Mildon water pump, new radiator and my engine
also runs very cool. Its a brand new 350ci/350hp crate motor with 380 miles on it and its also burning a lot of oil, probably through the rings. So what is the connection ?????
I believe it was mainly blowby because the engine was not up to temp. Don't know if that's the exact reason but the oil consumption and blue smoke went away almost immediately when it started running closer to 180°.
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