It is getting close to time to buy engine parts. I still have not decided what to do. I have read posts saying 383 is the only way to go. Then I read posts 383 is not worth the trouble. Do you guys with a 383 really see a big difference? My first plan was to build a ZZ4 for my car . I have the cam and heads. I still can use them with a stroker. My block is ready to get boiled and checked out and if I go 383 I should grind all the spots on the block first. WHAT TO DO??????????????????

 

The boost of low-end is something i could never even imagine when i went from a 10:1 355 w/ dual plane intake, comp280H cam .480/.480, a 650 Holley..

To my current setup.

Step on it right off the line & your in for some neck twisting excitment!

IMO...mild street, if ya have the extra $$$, 383 all the way.

High rpm HP, ZZ4.

Good luck.

 

383 is by far the most impressive for street and not to shabby at the strip if you have some slicks. The torque will make you beg for mercy if you are a passenger, everybody who rides in mine is impressed, even people with faster cars. I truly can't believe that all of that comes from a mild naturally aspirated small block. My buddies high horse 12 second car doesn't even come close to touching the throw you back in your seat factor of the 383. Good luck!!

 

i'd say depends on application. for an auto i'd say go for the 383, if it's a stick, go for the zz4. btw, if you already have the cam and heads, the short block is available seperatlly.

 

Go for the cubic inches, Were talking an extra 30-40ft lbs of torque where you need it on the street. You will allways wish you did if you dont.

Lonnie

4080lbs 86 chevy trk
383 sbc 9.6:1 cr
KB 135 pistons
5.7 rods
SCAT 3.75 stroke crank
ISKY 270 hydraulic flat tappet cam
Sportsman heads(64cc)

 

ZZ4.

 

Get the GM 383 Crate motor with a 4.0" bore and 3.8" stroke. It would make a nice torquer motor.

 

Neither! Get a turbo buick motor and transplant it. You can usually find them for about 3 grand out of 86-87 Gn's or Turbo T's. Now your talkin some real HP, with great gas mileage. I would have dropped a 3.8 in my Iroc if I couldn't find a TTA.
~Murt

 

If I understand correctly you have a cam and heads and are wondering what short block to purchase or build?
383 all the way. Go with a long rod (5.7) kit and the 383 will rev just as high as the 350, get a bunch more low end torque, and it's pretty close to the same price. Block machining does add a bit, but shop around and a lot of places offer 383 shortblocks very reasonably priced.

 

Seems like you guys are into the 383 more than 350. I am not into revs above 5500 rpms anyways. As everyone knows TPI motors don't rev high. I will pass on a V6 turbo. I would love to have one from the factory but not intop building up one. My current 350 block is in great shape and I will use it for the 383 if I build one. Has anyone used the kit friom JEGS $ 1149.00 ?? Thanks for inputs.

 

383 all the way. Torque is great on the street, and the 383 will have plenty of it

 

If you are referring to the Eagle stroker kit with cast steel crank then yes I have used it. It seems to be a really good setup that should take most any naturally aspirated abuse you can heap upon it, I have personally spun mine to 7000 albeit accidentally, but it took the abuse easily. About the only thing that doesn't come in that kit is gaskets, block, and heads. Good luck!!

 

That is more than likly what I will get. Did you have to balance anything or was it all matched when you got it?

 

My vote is 383! My first build was a 383, just cranked it up this past September. As James said, even a passenger with a faster car (10.4/128) is very impressed, not to mention ME.

Some crank assemblies are externally balanced but mine was internally balanced. I also had the locall shop re-check it.

As far as clearances are concerned, pick your number and let it be MAX. I want to emphasis this point. (Please don't ask me why but it comes from experience). Bigger is not better!

Good luck and take your time.

(EDIT) Don't put anymore money in the block than necessary, until you have completed all the grinding and deburring.

 

My assembly was already balanced internally.