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take a look at this, is it good?

Old Apr 10, 2002 | 06:16 PM
  #1  
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From: Bedford, Tx
take a look at this, is it good?

$250 4 bolt (supposivly), haven't seen it for real yet, only pictures.. hows it look with these pictures?? looking for a swap into a 2.8L 89 RS... if\when we goto look at it, what specific things should we check?
Attached Thumbnails take a look at this, is it good?-350.jpg  
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Old Apr 10, 2002 | 06:16 PM
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From: Bedford, Tx
pic 2

poo
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Old Apr 10, 2002 | 06:17 PM
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From: Bedford, Tx
pic 2 again

2
Attached Thumbnails take a look at this, is it good?-3504bolt.jpg  
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Old Apr 10, 2002 | 06:28 PM
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From: saugerties new york
Car: 91 firebird,mint
Engine: 305 tbi,lots of work done
Transmission: 700-r4 built by level 10 in nj
Axle/Gears: 3.73, auburn , precision
medic!!!!
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Old Apr 10, 2002 | 06:33 PM
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From: San Antonio, TX
Car: '99 HO Z28 / '03 Trailblazer
Ask the dude to turn the crank (showing the pistons in a different posistion). Seized pistons = bad.


It looks like something I dug out of the bottom of my toaster oven. I'd find something better.


ALSO: What HP/TQ figures are you targeting? Unless you are building an all-out race motor, the 4-bolt main is no real big deal - just something for people to charge you more for.
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Old Apr 11, 2002 | 02:09 PM
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From: Illinois
honestly..i dont know if i would get a 4 bolt..would probably get a 2 bolt and have it angle drilled to four bolts (if thats the name for it) but thats only my position...

das Phoenix
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Old Apr 11, 2002 | 02:44 PM
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From: Lenhartsville, PA
UGHHHHHHH!!!!. I'd look for something else. $250 is a LOT of money for something that looks like that.

Brethment.....Do you live near a junkyard?!?!? I got my motor out of a 69 chevy pickup at the local U-pullit. It was only $125 for a complete motor. The plus was they had just gotten the truck in so I could hear it run first. After that it was off to the machine shop.

BTW theres a little trick that works 99% of the time to tell if a 350 is a 4-bolt. All 350's that had an 8in balancer and some square headed plug above the timing chain cover from the factory were 4-bolts. I'm not saying all 4-bolts had this, just that everyone that had these 2 things stock were.

It's called splayed caps when they are drilled in at an angle and it's not necessary unless you have a LOT of horsepower and spin your motor at extremely high RPMs. A 4-bolt will be fine.

The square plug is in the area I circled.
Attached Thumbnails take a look at this, is it good?-square-plug.jpg  
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Old Apr 11, 2002 | 03:19 PM
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4 bolt? Flip it over and see.

Also, That is 2 much for something that will have to completely torn down and rebuilt.
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Old Apr 11, 2002 | 03:25 PM
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From: Cleveland, OH and Flint, MI
Irocz, I've got a 2-bolt 350 from an '87 pickup truck that has the features you mentioned, that square plug and an 8" balancer. I've had the pan off and its definately not a 4 bolt.
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Old Apr 11, 2002 | 03:34 PM
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From: Lenhartsville, PA
Ok, do you have the newer style block with the one piece rear main seal. I forgot to mention this only applies to the older style blocks. It has worked for me, my dad, and my buddies every time, but we always go for the late sixties early seventies blocks.
This was something my Dad saw in Hot Rod years ago.
Also, someone could have put a different balancer on.
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Old Apr 11, 2002 | 03:47 PM
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You scared me for a second all those goodies and a 16.32. You should knock about 4 seconds off that.
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Old Apr 11, 2002 | 06:52 PM
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From: Bedford, Tx
we're not trying to make too much HP. just about near a stock L98.. anyone know how much it cost to ship an engine?? say from N.C. to texas?
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Old Apr 11, 2002 | 07:17 PM
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Though 250 is high for just a block, I don't se how any of these people can give you info on a block from two poor quality photos. I can't tell you how many blocks I've bought that look worse then that and were fine. Nobody can tell for sure what condition a block is until you have it checked my a machine shop. This excludes obvioes grooves or cracks. Like I said $250 is a bit high, but dont listen to what anyone tells you about a block they've only seen pics of. Dirt DOES NOT equal a bad block.
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Old Apr 11, 2002 | 07:44 PM
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From: Clearwater, FL
I agree with Hulk... but for $250 I think you can find something with a few more pieces attached to it.

If you have to ship it from NC to Texas then it is definitely not worth it.
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Old Apr 11, 2002 | 08:07 PM
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From: KS
Figure at least $75 to ship it by truck. Texas is a big state. You can't find anything else down there?
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Old Apr 11, 2002 | 08:14 PM
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From: Tennessee
Car: 92 Camaro Heritage
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: T-5
Dude, keep shoping you can do better than that
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Old Apr 11, 2002 | 08:49 PM
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From: San Antonio, TX
Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: L98 (350 TPI)
Transmission: MD8 (700 R4) + 3.42 LS1 Rear
hey breathment i'm in SA texas and can get early model blocks or late model blocks for $175. local speed shop has them in stock and guranteed good. i just got one for my build up. i would look elsewhere especially for $250.
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Old Apr 11, 2002 | 08:55 PM
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From: springfield,IL
Car: T/A / Grand Am
Engine: 383 SBC
Transmission: glide
Axle/Gears: 9" ford 5.67
Originally posted by Thundering Z03
Dude, keep shoping you can do better than that
THAT engine WILL need to be rebuilt. Look at the rust in the cycs. I wouldn't giveum more than $50.00 for it. I sure wouldn't pay to have it shipped. Check your local machine shops, sometimes they have blocks and cranks that people bring in and never pick up. Keep looking!
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Old Apr 11, 2002 | 09:26 PM
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From: Bedford, Tx
well, i wasn't getting THAT block shipped from N.C....

we were gonna order a complete engine set up from http://www.thirdgenresource.com for $850, with TPI setup etc. but they are located in N.C.
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Old Apr 12, 2002 | 12:52 AM
  #20  
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From: Lenhartsville, PA
Yeah, I'm sure that won't be cheap shipping. I'd say $75 might be a little low.
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Old Apr 12, 2002 | 12:54 AM
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From: Lenhartsville, PA
TBurke...LOL Yeah, I need to get to the track with this setup so I can put a different # up there. I'm waiting for my Probuilt trans to come first.
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