Today I drove 6.5 hours going about 85 all them time turning over 2000-2500 RPMS, the car is 134,000 miles on it and NO HITCHES, the car through an SES light at me but it went away, thinkn it was a MAF code carried me a friend(blond gurl, ne one see us??) ....will check code later. Neway i now have a tan ....*** i love converts.

 

Hey Camaro6spd,

Do you live in the Annandale that Steely Dan talks about in "My Old School"?

You know, "California tumbles into the sea, that'll be the day I go back to Annandale"?

 

i dunno lol , there is also Clinton Correctional Facilities in 2Pacs Picture me rolln'......

 

so what's the consensus here?

thirdgens are good older cars in the sense that parts are cheap & plentiful and the drivetrain is easy to work on with a minimum of tools???

 

My KARR (1983 Pontiac Trans Am) got better gas milage than my Dad's 4 cylinder 1997 Dodge Neon and I have a CFI 305ci V8.

my KARR has its share of problems just like any old car

it needed a tune up, an Alternator, motor mounts, fuel sending unit

but it still runs like a tiger

 

my car has 195k miles on it, and the only things that have broken on it are things I added to it. When I started tweaking with it, things started showing up.

But I delivered pizzas in the car for over a year, never got stranded, always ran without a hitch.

I wouldnt say it's unreliable, it's just an old car and wear and tear parts will begin to break. Alternators, starters, fuel pumps, brakes, gaskets, sensors etc. The only thing I would worry about are fuel injection sensors failing, as they can be a pain in the butt to isolate.

I never had any engine trouble or transmission or rear differential trouble with mine. My 700r4 was fine at 190k when I took it out. My old L03 was still running perfectly too. As long as the drivetrain has been maintained, the important things will keep on going.


And to the guy with the nightmare low mileage thirdgen... I dont know how you managed to have that much stuff fail. Thats amazing. Karma owes you one, go play the lotto! I ahve a feeling a lot of that may have just come from it being a garage queen, though. Weird things happen to cars when they dont get driven.

 

I own and drive exclusively 80s GM, and these can be great and reliable cars if you go with the right equipment. Not all of it is going to be bulletproof.

My recommendation is to get a TBI engine car with a 700-R4, probably 90-92 would be best. Yes, TPI makes more power but there are many more sensors and potential failures with it, and it's also substantially more expensive to maintain. Carbureted cars have their huge advantages as well, but given your circumstances, I would avoid them.

People will disagree because they hate the 700, but I've had three 700s (and five 80s GM overdrives total) with over 150k on a stock unit, and as long as the fluid is good, the TV setting is properly adjusted, the vehicle isn't abused, and there's not something like 400 hp in front of it, I've never experienced a failure or known anyone personally who has. The one 700 I've had fail was my own fault as I didn't get the torque converter reinstalled properly during a motor swap. And also, it was $700 to have a shop rebuild (in 2006). You really shouldn't pay more than around $1000 to have one rebuilt if you shop around.

Also, TBI cars get great mileage. Your dad will be shocked what kind of MPG you knock down if you tune it up and drive it right.

I bought my thirdgen about 6 years ago with 172,000 original miles and put about another 50k on it over the course of 3 years. I took it as far as 1400 miles round trip and drove it almost 80 miles every day while I was in college. Other than a starter and an alternator, I did not have any issues. It ran great when I sold it.

Between my 3rd gen and the other 80s GMs I've owned or own, I've had nearly every transmission or fuel system offered in these cars, and I think as long as you do the research and are prudent about buying, you can get into a solid and reliable car, especially with TBI, for a good price. I know others have their horror stories, but I drive mine daily and depend on them, and I drive mine all over the country every year to see family. They're solid for me, and I'm a backyard mechanic, not someone with a shop to work on them in. I wouldn't keep them if I was under the hood all the time on 'em, I don't have the time nor desire to do that. Reliability is partially why I bought them.

But yeah...you gotta be smart with your $$$ and do your homework. These aren't like a Civic where it's only a few trim levels and engines available. These cars can come with anything, and they're old. So yeah....buy like an RS or something with TBI that's in reasonable condition, ask us about how to get the transmission dialed in, and you'll be set. If you don't want it to break, you should also probably keep it stock or close to stock for a while. That's a big reason why people on here have major mechanical failures.

My $.02

 

Cars are easy to work on and reliable AS LONG AS YOU DONT "MONKEY" with the factory set-up! Stuffing alternative engines and transmissions and parts that were not meat to be in the cars will get you many headaches! Just for reference- dont ever store your low mileage IROC at a buddy's garage and expect to have the same parts on it when you pick it up! Geez.....I had to learn this one the hard way.

 

Well I have had 3Gs forever and I would say this if you want a car that is rerliable and cheap to maintain. Get a manual transmission car. It doesn’t give the computer complete control of the car. If your state allows it put headers on it Get a 70s Quadrajet and a new intake. Use a 160-170 thermo. Make sure the cat is clean or use dual cats (valve longevity) Put in an aluminium radiator new water pump, belts and hoses. Make sure your batt is good and a new starter. If you go easy on the pedal it will give you around 25 mpg hwy.

You can not make some of these mods on an automatic car without great trouble and expense, 700r s are trash. They must be modified to stand up to spirited driving. but, I guess being 17 you won’t be doing any of that!

 

My 87 2.8 has 270,000+miles, and I've replaced the coolant sensor, two alternators and two fuel pumps ( I bought it at 174,000 mi). It is ready for take-apart and rebuild- but still starts and runs every day with general maintenance(Pacesetter headers the only mod- original manifolds were cracked!) My 86 Formy was purchased at 98,000 mi; I started with the 'need' to upgrade, and haven't stopped yet- have done numerous mods as the budget allows. Nothing but the normal things on both cars- headlight and hatch motors and hood and hatch struts. The wife's Camaro has been the POS so far, but I am going to start on that this summer. The timing chain, fuel pump and alternator so far- now has a big miss- I may be rebuilding the carb and distributor.

 

Just as reliable as any other 20+ year old car!

You gotta do maintanice on anything that old, if you expect it to run.

Rebuild the car to as new specs and it will be just as reliable as anything else.


Getting a 20 + year old car, and expect to drive it everyday with out having to work on it is silly, regardless of what kind of car it is.

 

We do realize this thread is 11 years old right? This "kid" is 27-28 years old now.

 

New members love bringing uip Zombie threads!

 

The info is timeless and he is not the only juvenile reading this post.

 

sticky it?

 

sticky it x2

 

My point was its hard to give advice to a guy who has probably owned three car since the thread started.
As far as it being good info to sticky....some of it may hold true still. But what new driver is looking to get a 21-31 year old car? These cars are now a decade older than when most of this was written, is the average 'used thirdgen' still considered reliable? Not to negate it being a sticky, just playing devils advocate.

 

Ok This is my 2Cents on the matter.
I have tree TG, if you get a beatten one will take to much money to restore I learne that the hard whay (My First TG was a 1989 GTA pay $800.00 With Plans to restore).

My secon TG was a 1985 Trans AM this was in a fair condition but bught it sheep at $1,800 because is has a terrible misfire and they didn't know what it wass I Like working on cars so finding the problem was fun but a lot of work.

My Third is my baby a 1989 GTA this cost 8,500 found it at arizona so no rust and in like new condition but as you can see you get what you paid for

This cars are good but with the age that they have and the condition that yours may be you will need to know you will have to fix it every know an then. you can pay somone but that will come expensive.

If you buy this car it is no for how good they are it is because you like it and don't picture yourself witout one so you are prepare to take the chalenge.

 

Good advice! Any car that age would have dubious reliability, but a least a 3rd gen is fixable with a reasonable amount of effort and $. Parts are cheap including standard shocks. ( by the way if you replace the front struts, reverse one of the bolts and you will never have to take the brakes/bearings off again to replaces them the next time! ) Should post this on another furum!

 

Holy Resurrection Batman!

This thread got brought back from the dead!

 

Just like some 3rd Gens.!There are Zombies out there!