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Old Feb 1, 2004 | 09:31 PM
  #1  
Battery's Avatar
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From: Spokane WA
Car: 75 & 82 Z-28
Engine: 350
Transmission: Saginaw 4 speed
There is no way

I was just threatened that a b16 civic will beat my POS Camaro.

Here is what it will have when the top end goes back on it. Vortec heads (Guides machined down for XE274). XE274 cam, Performer RPM Intake, Holley carb (still have yet to purchase, but probably 750DP). This on a stock 76 short block should make around 9.5-9.6 compression.

This and a 100-125 shot. I want to dyno 400+rwhp on the shot.

On street tires (all i have can afford before I leave for Marines) I know I'll spin forever 245/65/15's in back. But I think no matter what, I should be able to fly by him around 60mph if he does infact launch decent.

This is in my 75 Camaro though, which is a tank at like 3700 + me or around there anyway through a Saginaw 4 speed (I hope it holds up). My clutch freaking sucks, but should be usable for a month or so.

We'll see, I think he is in the 180hp range or so in a extremely light car. He said he can run low 14s, but i doubt he has a time slip.
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Old Feb 1, 2004 | 10:29 PM
  #2  
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If your combo turns out the way you have listed and it is not a turbo set-up it should be no match and he should be able to give a good description of your tail lights. Pending that you are not to far ahead
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Old Feb 1, 2004 | 11:43 PM
  #3  
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Car: 1985 Iroc-z
Engine: 355 sbc
Transmission: 700r4
call me silly, but I think a 750 double pumper holley would flood those plugs out more than you want to replace.
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Old Feb 3, 2004 | 12:47 AM
  #4  
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From: Antelope, CA
Car: 89 IrocZ/17 LS 1LE
Engine: 383/LGX
Transmission: 400/TR-3160
Axle/Gears: 3.08/3.27
you will kill that civic the b16 has 160hp and no torque at all plus you have to be an extremelly good driver to get a good launch a b16 civic with a low boost turbo could run mid to low 14s with a good driver
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Old Feb 5, 2004 | 01:28 PM
  #5  
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From: Mays Landing NJ
Car: 2018 Camaro SS
Engine: LT1 w/Paxton 1500SL
Originally posted by hydric
call me silly, but I think a 750 double pumper holley would flood those plugs out more than you want to replace.
It should be fine with those heads and cam.
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Old Feb 5, 2004 | 01:51 PM
  #6  
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Car: 84z, 65 elcamino
Engine: l69 and a hyped up sbc in the camino
Transmission: t5 m21
Axle/Gears: 373s 411s
Originally posted by fly89gta
It should be fine with those heads and cam.
just put smaller jets on the primary and fat ones on the secondary
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Old Feb 5, 2004 | 03:02 PM
  #7  
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kill the *****
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Old Feb 5, 2004 | 03:27 PM
  #8  
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You'll have a car length or two on him and then on the 1-2 shift you will tear that saginaw to pieces...if your are on the juice there is no question it will explode. I had a perfectly rebuilt saginaw behind a near stock 280-300hp build and when I finally toke it out 20K later to put a Tremec 5-speed in there was like an inch of play in the input shaft...it wasn't shifting right too towards the end. Saginaws are just not meant for any performance applications whats soever....hit the nitrous and it will break, I promise.

With only 9.5 cr may be wise to look at the xe268...the xe274 really needs 9.8-10.2 to not be as soggy on the lowend. Also, you will be fine with a doulbe pumper. I have a 650 DP on my 355 with a tiny 203/212@.050 cam and World S/R Heads and I don't foul the plugs excessively....just have to jet it right and not get into the secondarys during normal cruising...I also switched in a primary metering block from a vacuum secondary carb that has smaller Idle Feed Restriction holes(much smaller) to lean it out at idle.
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Old Feb 5, 2004 | 03:49 PM
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From: Mays Landing NJ
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Engine: LT1 w/Paxton 1500SL
or you can just go fuel injected and not worry about it
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Old Feb 5, 2004 | 04:21 PM
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Car: 1985 Iroc-z
Engine: 355 sbc
Transmission: 700r4
Originally posted by fly89gta
or you can just go fuel injected and not worry about it
thats an arguement starter there... dont go tpi, you'll be in less worry.

As stated, just jet that double pumper down
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Old Feb 5, 2004 | 04:23 PM
  #11  
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From: Mays Landing NJ
Car: 2018 Camaro SS
Engine: LT1 w/Paxton 1500SL
Originally posted by hydric
thats an arguement starter there... dont go tpi, you'll be in less worry.

As stated, just jet that double pumper down
I was really only kidding...hence the ""

If I were building a stout motor it'd probably be carb(even though I don't like em) since it's much cheaper... but I'll stick with my turbo
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Old Feb 8, 2004 | 07:26 AM
  #12  
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B16's are DOHC VTEC engines ranging from 160-185hp stock. Most of them are not turbo, due to the fact that the turbo spools up and the VTEC kicks in at the same time, the car gets such a immediate boost of horsepower it overrevs.

Most of the import guys really dont use turbos on DOHC VTEC engines. Most of the ones I have seen have been the LS motors, which are DOHC non-VTEC.
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Old Feb 11, 2004 | 01:15 AM
  #13  
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From: Minnesota
Car: 1989 Firebird
Engine: Toilet Bowl Injection 305
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Originally posted by vwdave
B16's are DOHC VTEC engines ranging from 160-185hp stock. Most of them are not turbo, due to the fact that the turbo spools up and the VTEC kicks in at the same time, the car gets such a immediate boost of horsepower it overrevs.

Most of the import guys really dont use turbos on DOHC VTEC engines. Most of the ones I have seen have been the LS motors, which are DOHC non-VTEC.
A turbo spooling at 3000rpm will NOT be spooling at the same time VTEC engages (5800 rpm). Building a lot of horsepower doesn't cause an "overrev", poor shifting does. And plenty of guys have successfully turbo- and super- charged DOHC VTEC engines. The critical part is in the tuning.
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Old Feb 11, 2004 | 07:09 AM
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Hey, thats just what I was told by a few people.
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