I knew what the outcome would be before we raced, non the less it was fun. I've got a 92Z stock + catback. As far as I know that's the only mods on the car. I recently went with some 275's kuhmo's out back, and have had nothing but traction issues in first. My opponent was a 04 BMW M3. We went from about a 5mph roll. I spun first gear hard, but still gained about 1/4 car on him through first. Once second hit he was gaining hard. We shut down around 60 and he already had two cars on me. I think I would of had a car on him at 30mph if I could of hooked up. I tell ya, TPI is a curse(top end) and a blessing(1st gear). Now I gotta figure out what I'm going to do about my traction issues.

Phyte

 

two cars by 60? GOOD GRIEF- HOW LONG DID YOU SPIN THE HIDES? that sounds like he actually made up three cars from 1-2 shift to 60mph.

what aspect ratio rear tire is that? the 275 (I'm assuming) is the metric width, but the height is needed to determine if the overall drive ratio has changed. shorter tires will decrease drive ratio (as higher numerical gears will) and thus increase force on the contact patch of the tire beyond the coeficient of friction increase from the wider tire.

to compound that, the shorter tire would make the engine spin faster to move the car the same speed-- so upper RPM limitations would manifest themselves sooner!

would make a nice drift car, though!!!

 

I think we need some tire recommendations. Obviously street legal drag radials would be the best, but lets hear some opinions.

I used to spin my Kumho 245's pretty easily on my old L03 92 RS, nevermind my L98 92 Z28 now. When I get on it I'm sideways instantly and spinning right up until about the shift to 2nd, and I'm stock. I think they're a decent tire as far as cost and wear, but I don't think I'd recommend them for traction on the streets for our cars.

 

From everything I've seen Kuhmo's = suck. I had a set of Firestone Firehawks and could hook up my L98 car pretty easily with them, ran them until they were GONE. Maybe some Nitto 555's or BF Goodrich radials? I use ET Streets at the track now and WOW they stick like none other. Good luck on future races, I would be focusing on getting that motor pulling harder and higher before I messed with a newer set of tires.

 

wot @ 5mph with an l98 and 700r4 = 0 traction...

Thats why the HSR is such a common mod these days, you lose a lil real low end torque and gain lots up top.

Anyways those new m3s are bad ***, friend of mine has an 06... that car is definitely on par with his dads c5 vette...

 

I figured with a 275 tire I'd have _some_ traction. I had kuhmo's on my datsun 260z and they were fantastic, but when it comes to straightline traction on a high torque car they suck. I spun all the way through first and still had him by half a car or so. If I would of hooked I would of had atleast a car if not more through first. Once I hit 4500 rpm or so the TPI just falls on it's face. I'm currently planning a 352cu vortec build that should be pretty nasty. 352=destroked 400.

Here's a pic of my car


Phyte

 

I'm running 18x9.5 wheels with a 275x40x18 tire. I'm running the stock 3.23 posi gear in the back. I didn't notice any performance difference when changing wheels from stock(I'm sure there was with parasitic loss and all), but it wasn't much. I'm just really disappointed in the loss of traction I'm experiencing with the kuhmo's. I'll have to do something when I get my 352 built.

Phyte

 

Pull the TPI off, port out and siameses the plenum, radius the runner entries, and siamese the base. This will kill a little low end and give you some more rpm. This coupled with exhaust, the air box mod (cut the bottoms out) and some more fuel pressure should help you alot.

 

did you leave first? sounds like a cheap move, but it makes the difference.
always leave first. leave the excuses for who ever lost

 

You might also need to spray 100hp to that car to get ahead of the BMW, his car has you on power by quite a bit. I thought you meant the old BMW M3 with the small 4 cylinder but the 04's have 333hp and 262ft lbs, they're high revving powerful little 6 cylinders. He does weigh a little more than you coming in with a curb weight of 3700lbs but obviously he can still pull on you. Strap 100hp shot to your car even with no other mods and you should be ahead of him assuming you can make it stick for at least that 1 good run.

 

Right, it was a newer M3. My torque is far greater which explains why I took him off the line even with excessive wheel spin, and his HP is why he caught me. I know he's had a few minor things done to it too like a reflash and a K&N I believe. If we would of kept going it would of been ugly because he was pulling hard . No worries, it was a fun race and I knew I would be beat before we even went. I'll have to start picking on stock civics to regain my pride

Phyte

 

dont bless tpi because of 1st gear, bless the 700r4 automatics 3.08 1st gear for that

Why do you even bother with a 70k luxury sports car?

352, destroked 400... you mean a 377 correct

 

Do yourself a favor and pick up a pair of Goodyear GS-D3's if you're looking for a street tire that hooks. I've never gotten a car to hook with Khumos.

 

Why not? It's a friend so why not race for fun.

No, 327 crank with ford 6.2" rods, 352

http://www.airflowresearch.com/artic...le03/A3-P1.htm

Phyte

 

What can stock 10 bolts take tire wise? D/R's?

 

Sounds like the hard way to build a 350...

Theres somebody else on these boards doing the same (or was a few months ago) cant remember who off the top of my head...

If it were me id go for more cubes instead of less, but it sounds like shell be a helluva screamer, hope it works well for ya.

 

Those newer M's are pretty fast. I have raced one at the track and they will give my zz4 a run for its money. There definitly faster then the new 300hp GT Mustangs.Like 87350TPIKID said "70k luxury sports car" that runs mid-low 13s stock. Get some good traction and some bolt-on parts and go give that same car a run for its money.A good running L98 with bolt-ons can run low 13s-high 12s with good traction.Good Luck!!!

 

I've read about that build before but honestly I would just build a long rod 327 or 350. Reason being is 400 blocks are rare and a require steam holes to cool properly on the street (not TOO big of a deal but still something to keep in mind). That's why that engine was such a good performer, big bore and lots of dwell time at the top and bottom. You could probably get similar results and be a little easier to build with a simple 6in rod 355, plus you wouldn't have the siamesed bore block of the 400.

 

Fixed your post I'm like my dad. He builds unique rods that are kinda "out of the norm". Sure I could build a 355, 383, etc but what fun is that? I like the idea of having a semi unique motor.

Phyte

 

I've wanted to see a small displacement (302, 307) solid roller cammed engine with a short runner LT1 style manifold for a while now. I think that would be trick, having a fuelie engine that idled decently and could rev to 8000 rpm.

 

your in a camaro, hes in a bmw, should have realized that you had no chance

 

I'm in a Camaro... and I'de race him with no fear (as long as my g/f wasn't there, BMW's really are chick magnets).

 

If youre spending that kind of money, shell out some more and get a real set of heads that can breath.

 

I'm already looking at 400+hp and 450+ ft/lb. That's more then enough for me. No reason to spend $1500 on a set of built AFR's when I can get a good set of vortecs for around $300 and do a little clean up myself. $1200 for an extra 20hp isn't worth it in my book.

Phyte

 

I don't care if he was in a ferrari, I would still race him. I stated in my first post that I knew I wouldn't win. I guess I'm not supposed to race unless I'm guaranteed to win

Phyte

 

So youre building a super destroker for 400hp? That engine's potential is 4000 and up and those heads are from 6000 and down. You will see WAY more than 20hp between AFR's and Vortecs on a high revving engine.

 

If you look at this link the engine makes its peak hp at 5700 rpm. A set of worked over vortecs(pops owns a hotrod shop and has ALL the tools to grind heads) will work just fine for this engine. I'm not looking for the MOST horsepower, I'm looking for a "happy" amount of HP with a semi unique engine. Look at the torque in this engine also, more then enough for a good street setup. I'd rather spend the money I save for other items, like paint

http://www.airflowresearch.com/artic...le03/A3-P4.htm

Phyte

 

That engine is using a small cam with a badass set of heads. Thats what Ive been telling people forever. Not to mention its 11:1 and iron heads are going to have a problem not detonating. But, your engine.

 

I always run 93 octane in my stock 350, so I'll continue with the 352. They have a small cam plus great heads, I'll have a good cam and good set of heads. Engine will run just fine.

 

Linginfelter once said "A car with a great set of heads and a bad cam will always outrun a car with bad heads and a good cam."

I bought my ported, new in box AFR's on ebay for $800 bare and put $600 getting every single new and upgraded part available for it. 10* steel locks, dual springs, ss valves. I built the heads to take RPM's AND boost.

 

Since when did vortecs become "bad" heads? Anyway, this thread is way off course. Back on topic.

Phyte

 

I didnt say they were bad. Just a expression that heads are extremely important.

 

Dont underestimate the destroked 400. Prostock trucks are limited to 350 cubes so they put the 327 crank in a 400 block to get 348 cubic inches then bore it alittle to get the extra 2. It is the same motor grumpy jenkins is famous for, well one of the things he is famous for.