i bet that 2800 stall helped your times tremendously.

 

Oh for sure. Anytime you can drop 2 tenths or so on the 60 foot alone you will see near .4 on the 1/4 mile depending on the engine combination. The stall and slicks helped alot, but even on the street tires it helped a good bit. A 3200 stall speed on my bolt on LS1 car picked up 2-3 tenths in the 1/8 mile alone with same 60 foots on street tires. The 1-2 shift is a big drop in rpm with highway gears. The converter slip helps shift recovery.

But as evident with my buddy's 88 formula, even stock stalled L98's with bolt ons are well into the 13's.

As for LT1's, I saw something mentioned about them in this thread. My one friends 95 Z28 with most all the bolt ons and a tune went 12.96 at 106 mph on stock street tires with 3.73 gears and stock 4L60E tranny, stock converter. Thats pretty good too.

These runs arent at a special track either..Pittsburgh is at 1200ft and most summer time 70 deg nights have DA in the 2500-2800 ft range. A good fall/early winter day has a DA of 1200-1500. An exceptional day can approach sealevel. My best bolt on L98 run was 12.95 and that occured in a DA of 188ft. MOST 1500ft DA's were in the 13.2's. Altitude and air make a big difference

But I dont have my vids for the 02 stang I raced. He was pulling about the same times as some of the mild bolt on 05+ GT's I've seen out there. When I was in the mid 13's or so, I think one guy came up to me with a 05 GT on ET streets and said he was running low 13's. He had exhaust mods, CAI I believe. So they are quick and good race for a full bolt on L98 but given same air conditions, I gotta believe the GT will edge them out. Its like racing bolt on LT1's..they will pull you by a car or 2 in the 1/4 every time.

 

Makes me wonder what i may be running. Never timed the car. I would love to ditch my 273 for a 342.

 

I think you will be pleasantly surprised as long as your 60 foot remains around 2.0 or better. It should go mid lower 14's without much effort, especially if you have a vette L98 with the 113 aluminum heads...they are worth 10hp or so over irons.

 

I think maybe low 14's? The car has headers and alot of other boltons too.

 

Depends on traction and weather, but if stock stall and 2.73 gear, it wont leave much better than 2.0 60's probably and will likely run low 14's at 98-100mph or so. drag radials and tranny work you are well into the 13's

 

People don't realize even though its an automatic TPI cars are tricky getting them to launch properly to get that good 60' time. My friends '91 z had ONLY a pulley kit and ran 13.96@98 w/ 1.91 60' car had 17k on it. Houston Raceway Park hooked hard for us. The 4L60 irritated me to no end so I swapped my car to a manual destroyed many T5s but I was solidly into the 13s with minimal work..... all the mustang boys would say "man those guys got SLP all over them cars" there were maybe 4 items for our cars in '91 the rest we either made work or made our own. Great times though! **** gas was1.29 for super. Lol

 

I remember when gas was that cheap. I was into turbo cars then, not many parts available for imports back then either. I had a v6 turbo Z. I remeber Sunoco had 100 octane at the pumps too! they had 86,87,92,93,94,100 octane

 

I don't think my open rear would help much at the track, i think i should go to a 342 posi.

 

I will agree with you there however be sure your shift points are where they need to be and replace the drive and driven gear inside the tranny to match your new gear set.

 

Many WC T5's... My last HSR conversion was Behind A WC T5
not promoting they are strong... but just one of my 2-3 launches
should have turned it into a pile then... it was in for a year.. I just recently Sold the T5 still working fine

 

Well to revert back to what I started so long ago. Got my camaro and built her up, I have to break it in gently and then own my buddy. And heres the motor I built and put into my 86 IROC Its a 67 350 block, bored 30 over, heads had to be shaved down, crank turned and rods resized. Put in Speed Pro hypereutectic flat top pistons. Clevite 77 berrings. ARP bolts/studs. Edelbrock cam .420/.442, Edelbrock intake manifold. 64CC heads. Edelbrock 600 cfm carb (1406). New valves n rockers. I'm sure I am forgetting stuff. But it has 10.5 :1 Compression. And 380 HP. Oh Summit chepo shorty headers.

 

380 HP on stock shaved heads and a .420 lift cam? No way man. That combo sounds like around 300 or so HP. Especially with that little 600 cfm carb. You won't make much more than 300 with a carb that small.

 

Haha, doubt me if you will. Ill have to go dyno it once Its all broke in.

 

Def...post up the numbers too! I've built my fair share of SBC's and that sounds like a very mild combo for that amount of HP. Power to you if you come close to it though, but I'm willing to bet around 300 wheel.

 

Power numbers seem a bit high. My Lt1 with bolt ons is 320 at the tire with a 6spd. Stock hydraulic roller cam,1.6roller rockers,1 3/4 longtubes with 2.5" X pipe.......

 

if you have 2 valve relief hyp's 64cc give you 9.58:1... safe margin on .014 shaved OEM heads - 2cc your under 10.0:1 that lil cam im sure you wont break 300HP
the complete 2022 kit heads, intake, cam is rated @ 315 HP/ 9:60:1

 

Wow doubters every where, now i didnt say the heads were stock, they actually have new everything(not to mention a 5 angle valve job). as for compression its at least 10:1, let me repeat myself, at least. If anyone wants to buy me a gauge, ill prove it lol. There is alot more into this motor than I listed. Shes got ***** man. One thing that helps, this is a well seasoned block. A 67 block, they just dont make em like that anymore.

 

Not trying to call your bluff, but a lot of us have built many engines and just know what they will make around for HP based on different combos. A seasoned block has nothing to do with power it will make but more so for strength. An engine is an air compressor. You need compression, head flow, cam size, and induction efficiency to make HP. Your set up has decent compression, but nowhere near the cam size, head flow, or induction efficiency for 380 HP. Stock iron heads flow like garbage for the most part and that will be your engines biggest drawback. It doesn't matter if they have a 5 angle valve job and all new parts, it's the head casting itself that makes the flow numbers. Unless they've been seriously ported, that will be the limiting part to making power.

 

I'm kind of doubting it too, but hey, if he can somehow lay down a solid 300 RWHP on the rollers, more power to him. I've kind of learned to let everyone think they actually make what they think they do.

If I run into them, and win, it makes it that much better.

 

meh. I will just post the sheet when I can dyno it.

 

Well heres what I started this thread for. Simple. I won. Off the line, I hooked better, so i shot out in front and stayed there till about 85. He caught up and kept neck in neck until like 120ish (according to my gps, 85 spedo sucks) then I gained a good two lengths, was interesting. One of my other buddys has a bolt on 2011 mustang w the 5.0 and holy **** that thing is fast. I think he said hes got like 422 hp. Funny thing, I can take the corners faster, with my shot suspension haha.