I got smoked by one of those 350 zs no excuses i had her yes her for the first 4 car lenths after she liked my car more go figure

 

after she liked my car more?

So did you beat here by 4 lengths then let up? Then she liked the bird but not you LOL?

 

I had the z about 4 cars and then she caught up and blew by me sorry

 

LOL yeah they are low 14sec car even with auto. Torque wins off the line but the TPI dies. You have the gears and exhaust too.

Do get it there then have to do head work, ensure a good running engine, bigger cam or RR, more fuel and tune. Probably be a mid 14sec car and hold next to here at least through 3. I would think mid 3rd she starts to walk and past you and 3-4 car length by 3-4 as you cross the the 1/4

I assume in 1/4 mile she had you by 9-10 car lengths

 

Hey just beat a durango lol so proud lol

 

Well one thing I found out with my prior rebuild. A 1988 300zx Turbo. It is not all about speed. That was an old car and even though a turbo it was much harder and more $$ to modify or find parts to crank it up. IUn the end Once it drove reliable, paint was mint condition and interior was immaculate and great exhaust and tunes. It really was enjoyable and sport to drive. In some cases it just looked fast, had more bark then bite, and on light to light stuff most people didnt try. And the few that did on hiway it surprisingly held its own on the top end. Especially with 10-11lbs of boost so 140mph was doable..

just a great fun ride. I like the the IROC to be the same. But since a V* I like to have the torque more available down low and much better rumble at idle and cruise.

my goal for my IROC will be to have level of look and finish:

 

Thats nice r u saying they dont have to much lowend power

 

The story of my Z. Similar fine. You should see the before pictures. It was running though, rough, but new battery and drove her home. Lots of vaccumm leaks, TPS, MAF closed loop issues. the car always ran rich intermittent. I had it dialed in without major engine work fixed all the leaks and did new timing belt, water pump all new sensors which on this car is PITA. The CTS sensor is under the timing chain and notorious corrosion issues on all the plugs. many dont even look water tight. So to change a $20 CTS requires you to remove the all front accessories, timing cover, and drain radiator. Knock sensor was $180 to replace and always kicked me into limp mode. I had to poor man bypass. Many of the sensors connectors can not be replaced. You have to wire in aftermarket and splice new connectors.

Again lots of PITA work. Stock it was a 205HP/245ft-lb car at 4.5lbs of boost. The prior years had 6lbs of boost on larger turbo. They went smaller unit to have it spool up quicker to help off the line.

I added boost controller and wideband. It ran like a 10-11 AFR when I got it. When done it typically ran at 14-16 on highway and dropped 11-13 under quick loads and under boost WOT conditions I had it at 12.7.

She had 140hp and 195 ft-lbs when I bought it. with out the boost controller I had it up to 187hp and 215ft-lbs. I think I was at 220 at 9lbs.

The turbo engagement was not always consistent based on load, rpm and throttle position. so I had to plan a good launch to get the maximize boost. It gave you seat of the pants with 7+ lbs.

And the auto on this was worse the ford AOD IMHO so that was a dog. I think it 3.08 rear
I have to say it was 15sec car stock mids probably. even with 10lbsmaybe 15sec flat.

I good running stock 305 TPI should eat this cars lunch especially an auto. The torque and launch alone of the TPI should be able to hold on the 300zx or walk on it. good running tpi with mild mods should be 200+RWHP and 300Ft-lbs

 

Thats a good story about yur 300 z i think your right on the numbers with my tpi formula i read and heard that the slp package i have on the car is good for 50 hp at the fly so 200 + at the wheels is right and 300 t im prob a little older than u i had some nice cars too 71 340 duster 69 440 roadrunner 67 ford comet 289 hi po 13 flat at about 112 mph the z that beat me was a 350 prob more hp than the 300 z

 

the 88 and new z are no comparison engine wise. Night and Day. The 350Z in the 06 is a 240-250RWHP car maybe little more on 07-08. The 370Z is a 330HP so probably 260-265RWHP.

I had 4 fbodies, mustang, 300zx, del sol, and a maverick.

I think hanging or beating a stock 350Z is a good watermark for the 305 TPI setup. More torque, easier and cheaper options to crank up HP over the Z (other then NOS)

The Genesis coupe is pretty nasty too the new v6 one. similar to the 370Z in HP BUT the autos are faster. The manual are rev limited and slow to shift so you can really catch most drivers off guard with those.

Owning a M35 with the 2006 350Z engine with slightly more torque for the a bigger car. The VQ engines usually beat the v6 stang and camaro v6 for sure. Even at the same HP ratings the response of the lighter weight, vq engine, the tranny and shifting and power curve kicks their butts.

So if you can hang with a Z you are in solid modern performance territory and probably some v8 sedan territory. ANd even on heels of the LT1 camaros too.

The Z and LT1 are very similar on paper and the newer z will beat most stock LT1 in 1/4 by few tenths. But I still feel, like on my m35, the v8 lt1 is better for street speed. The extra torque allows you to mash and go especially with a v8. My m35 and similar z are mash and go but depending on RPM load TPS those lack of 2 cylinders can hurt you in a short role while its hunting or trying to gain RPM

once it does on top end it will most likely be good night TPI though

 

I guess ill take baby steps i really want to keep it orig im gonna take it to englishtown raceway in nj if it can break 14s ill be happy i will launch it around 2000 rpms and c what happens its not my first time down the track

 

I like to keep mine together to, if it runs well, why waste the money make it look good an fun and keep it or flip it.

I have plenty of track time from my Charlotte days. I beat the heck out of my T-5 on a modded setup. Bone stock you are fine. On street tires you can launch 3000-3500. If you can hold up to 4000 you will see great times

I think the reason my t-5 lasted is I never used drags or slicks. that is where thinks break. If the tires break loose so be it.

My TBI had edlebrock heads, intake, zz4 cam, 3.73 posi, 75shot nitrous, TES headers, catback, custom tune, turbo city TBI. I could get 2.1 60' ft times on best days all motor. 2.2-2.3 typical. I think best was 2.0

On nitrous I had 1.9. All on stock clutch and daily driver.

 

I noticed my lb9 when all warm up 180 or 190 degr it idles at 700 even do u think thats normal

 

Probably not far off. I would think a manual idles about 600 autos are usually higher. Is that with AC on? It should be fine.

 

If i flip it im hoping to get 5500 to 6000 for it 77000 miles and garaged all its life its owner before me has passed away last year he was 64 he bought it new i new him for 18 years thats really why i bought the car i new how he took care of it like i told u i like mustangs

 

Thats with ac off

 

If the paint is really good shape all others things look good I think $6k is good ask and get $5k+. Especially since it is a 5 spd car, probably G92 option too

I think mint low mile 350 cars (like under $50k are asking $9k maybe get one for $7.

 

WHAT SLP package does your car have? Do you mean just SLP catback exhaust? Headers? Or SLP runners and intake? or all?

Looking back at your mustang post. You had bolt ons (intake, headers, exhaust) and a cam as well? mid-hi 13. I think a you do mild port & springs to stocks head which are good on these cars 081s, headers, bigger zz4 or comp cam, bump fuel pressure and flash chip you will easily be mid 13 car with manual

 

The entire package 1700 more in 1988