i'm having a surging problem with my camaro (just changed the clutch, now this... what bs)... it actually started before i changed my clutch, but anywho!

the car's rpms just go up, and down, up and down when driving it. it goes away if i pump the gas a bit in neutral, but it comes back without a notice.

it stalled a few times too. going around a turn, just stalled out of the blue, locked up my steering and i almost hit the center divider.

stalled at the light, etc.

the rpms just go all the way down and poop

mechanic said he checked injectors, they're all at 16. he checked sparkplugs, they're all fine. he said he doesn't know what it can be, because it can be so many things.

any ideas?

 

i gave you a list of some of the things that could be the cause in the other link

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=117801

it still could be bad injectors. (ask palric).
They could also be dirty.

 

Hey maN.. Its sound exactly like my injector problem...It has to be it!! did he check them hot or cold?? because as Palric found out that his had to be hot for it start acting up..
I still think that it is injector problem...

 

I second the motion on the injectors. The Multecs are garbage and can fool any mechanic. I'd get a multi-meter and test them HOT and cold periodically.

Also, my Formula had a bad distributor module and collector when I bought it. The timing was advancing up to 60 degrees then retarding -20 all in a 5 second time frame. No wonder the ECM went nuts trying to accomodate it. It made the idle bounce all over the place and occasionally stall as well.

If your engine is bouncing rpms all over the map and the injectors, IAC, TPS and O2 check out ok then I'd take a look at the distributor they are known for this kind of thing.

adious,
RP.

 

I agree, my car was doing the exact same thing. The Multecs decided to go south all at once(except 2). Check them when they are hot.

 

My dad hated the multecs with such a passion that he went back to carb... found tbi then was a bit happier... now he's on the sfi bandwagon but P.O. at the little things that bust now and again... mostly electronic stuff that he wishes he didn't dish out the extra dough on....

 

My car was experiecing the same symptoms( even though I have a carb) and I was told it is a lean condition. My problem turned out to be a vacuum leak in the power valve of my Holley. I don't know TPIs, but could it be a vacuum leak somewhere?
Just my $.02....

 

my mechanic said he checked the injectors while it was surging, and they were all reading at 16, so it can't be them....... car only has 74,000 kms too...

 

Hey easySPEED my Formula had only 63k on it when the injectors went south. Thats a fact.

The Multec design needs fuel and not mileage to wear out. They are designed such that the fuel eats at the insulation for the windings and after time the windings are exposed. At that point the injector starts to short but typically not until they are under load. This is what fooled me the second time around -- oh yeah I am on my 3rd set of injectors I just bought Accels hopefully never to have an injector issue again thank-you.

The previous sets were GM Multecs stupid me for not listening to SOUND advice from people who KNEW better. When my last set went I said F*CK it and paid for another brand (Bosche).

Maybe it is not your injectors -- just beware -- get a multi-meter and check them yourself every oil change. If you don't know how we can meet up and I will show you exactly how I am a freaking expert at it by now having paid ($$$) my dues as it were.

Ok now that I have had my rant on GM freaking Multec injectors... I had surging once and it turned out to be a loose IAC motor. I tried torquing it to 15lbs as per the book and it came loose again so I reefed on it and it has not come loose since and the surging went away.

thx,
RP.

 

Something is fishy there.... how did the mechanic test the injectors resistance while the car was surging? Don't you have to unplug the injectors to get a proper reading?

Check for vacuum leaks, when I got my car back together after the polishing, it surged because I forgot to plug the brake booster line up.

I have yet to get the Ignition problems, but that could very well be your problem.

Also, the ECM not having any codes, doesn't mean everything is good with the ECM. My ECM was fried, still gave the code 12 (meaning the ECM is working), and no other codes. So it coul dbe your ECM as well. Only way to test that is to get a diagnostic scanner and take it for a drive and check all the parameters. My car was the TPS voltage was low, wasn't the sensor, wasn't the wiring, it was the ECM itself.

If you can get a multimeter, or ohm meter at that, check the injectors yourself when the car is really really hot.

 

narrowed it down to the ECM or fuel pump or something like that, he said he checked everything else............

it's not the injectors, he said he tested them hot and cold... said they were all fine.

 

well something is still fishy.. I have an Extra ECM that will work in your car if you wanna try it... but you gotta come to my house or meet somewhere... just thought I would offer..

 

where do u live?

maybe a possibility

mechanic said a new one will cost me $300 from GM

called paradise alley, they said they usually charge $100, but they're out of stock, those bastards

if it is the ECM I'd rather buy it from you than pay that much to get one from GM

 

I am not selling my other one!.. but you can try it out to see if that is the problem... here is the site for interchangable ECM's I am running a POntiac 6000 ecm in my car right now... just change the chips and away you go.. so look at the wreckers...

 

Oh ya!! the link..
https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/t...erchange.shtml

I live in waterford close to simcoe or Brantford

 

how far is that from toronto?

 

hour and half..

 

my car doesn't have a G92 axle, does that matter

cuz it has t-tops

 

No it doesn't matter!! Your car is speed density.. that is all the Ecm will want to know..

 

Call a wrecker, DOM's charged me 50 bux for my 7730 computer. Many SD GM cars from the early 90's used the same computer. Just swap in your prom and your on your way.Heck I even returned mine to Dom's when I discovered that the computer was not my problem, he charged me a $10 restocking fee.

 

my ECM from the dealer was $250 I would go new, heck you pay $10k for the car, might as well get a new ECM and be sure it works. If that is the problem... fuel pump is easy to diagnose, get the car hot, and check fuel pressure.

 

Of course you've already changed the fuel filter ? Right ?

RP.

 

man oh man. Problems a lready. Should of considered mine. Runs klike a champ, built tranny. G92 350 8000$ worth of goodies and upgrades hehehheehe. good luck. oh and 3500$ cheaper.