I broke the torque arm bracket right off of the transmission on the way home from work. The bolt stripped through the threads and opened up so my torque arm was coming up and slaming against my floor. Now I think I'll have to tap a bigger hole and use a bigger bolt.

Or take the torque arm right off.

 

The only other option is 4-link.... good luck with that.

 

Taking the torque arm off would be bad, would it not?

Won't the diff want to turn upwards.

Just wondering because i believe i remember something to that effect when i changed the clutch a couple of years back.

 

I won't leave the torque arm off. If i do, it will only be temporarily while I baby it to the 2nd e-test appt. this upcoming Monday.
It would work without it, but you won't hook up as well.
Alot of the old muscle use the same rear control arm setup as we do, but minus the torque arm.

 

negatory.... older muscle cars have bushings on the diff for upper control arms.

 

Hey Cruzin I don't know what you are on but better get off it do not drive that f-body without the torque arm connected. I saw a guy do it once and his windshield seperated from the top left above the driver and the B-pillar got a crease behind his door.

Unfreakingbelievable I know but that can happen if you disengage the torque arm on a 3rd gen.

my .02 cents worth,
RP.

 

It should be alright as long as he babies it, like he said. The guy that didnt that probably did a hard launch or something? I could picture much nasty stuff happening without a torque arm.

hey dave where are you going for your e-test?! I made mine at CT for friday. Man we shouldve hooked up for the same day. That way you could go first and cover that sniffer with carbon and unburnt fuel so bad that when it got to mine it would be busted!

 

Guys he's driving a 383 stroker motor... what he calls babying it is us flooring it lol...

I wouldn't drive that without a torque arm.. but I think somewhere you gto sfc's put in, so you're lucky there... just go easy till you get it replaced... you'll tear the sfc's apart though then like palric described, the windshield and whole body is gonna go nuts...

 

I wouldn't do it either... think, there's nothing on the top of the rear end to keep it from twisting upward except the shocks and panhard rod... LOL and the axle!! Dood... don't even baby it!!! fix it up first

 

I'm at work, and the car is back at home on blocks. I'll bring a tap set home and re-tap the hole and put a bigger bolt in this time.

 

Good Man!

 

What about making a bracket/crossmember piece to hold the torque arm? I.e. fasten it directly to the front subframe instead of the transmission? I'm betting that the bolt pulling out (and the force required to do such) ain't so gentle on the trans. casing. Might take some work- but wouldn't this be alot stronger in the end?

 

They're going to put it on that rolling road thing to do the e-test aren't they. So wouldn't that f'ck it up real good without a torque arm no matter how easy you drive it to get there.

 

Maybe you should take the IROC off the Viagra? I was gonna kick your *** this weekend

You probably know this but take it easy with the tap. I'm not sure how thick the rear end casting is.

 

We just might get to play after all Paul.

My plan was to drill out 3/8, and then tap 7/16. I can't get the transmission low enough(without taking it out) to drill, so i just re-tapped coarse 3/8 and a new bolt with lots of 271 LocTite.

This may not be a permanent solution but it may do until winter comes and i have time to take the tranny out.

Oh and Paul, I hope you can do better than 13.7 with me, cause i'm sure i can at least do that, or better.

 

Yeah, ok Dave When and where..........

 

I cant take both you guys... All I have to do is wait till dave snaps his bolt again and pauls fuel pressure goes wack