Hey guys... I want to start building an engine for next winter, or late summer... where are some good online stores that I can check out available engines and prices? Canadian would be awesome.. but american is cool too....

I want just the block and bottom end... I will buy my own heads and cam set.

I am staying at 350cubes... although 327 is somewhere in the back of my mind... just for the fact I can say I have a 327 All depends what I find.. hell I may go with a 396 stroker.. LOL But 350 is my plan...

 

mmm 396

Scoggin Dickey..SCDP .com or something like that

Daz

 

Try www.greenwoodchevy.com

I think that's where I got mine.

 

The greendwoodchevy site looks pretty interesting. The only thing that worries me is that they sell christmas and patio lights, die cast cars and crate engines in the same store. Is it just me or does that combination seem odd. :sillylol:

 

Ok... you go to http://www.scdp.com/ LOL

 

Ok.. I checked both of those... Here are my plans... A 4-Bolt main block (new) with a rotating assembly, hopefully a lighter one with forged rods and crank. I am pretty sure I am going with Hypereutectic pistons as well... but I would like this engine to be bullet proof in a sense where if I rev it out once in a while, it won't self destruct.

The induction will be the Miniram II from TPiS... I want to be with the big boys.....

now here's a question for you guys... I plan on putting a centrifugal blower on it... should I build it with stock 9.3:1 compression... or will a forged bottom end take some boost at 10:1 compression?

 

Any suggestions on any other companies that sell rotating assembly's? I want a lightweight forged kit.

 

Why would you spring for a forged crank and rods and use hypereutectic pistons? I'd aim for 9:1 and hit it with about 12-15 pounds of intercooled boost.

 

Alot of rotating assemplies come with the hypereutectic pistons... I'd prefer a forged aluminum to keep weight down.

Crower is WAY too expensive, so I am trying to find a decent crank and rods at a decent price. I am printing Manley's catalogue out now, and I am going to take a look at it later on today.

By the looks of the parts I want, the engine won't be built for a couple years.. slowly building it as I get extra money.

The way I look at it is.... spend the money and go overkill on tough parts, and never take it apart again.

I definately want the bottom end bullet proof.. so yeah, hypereutectic is out, all I need is a little detonation, and bang boom.. pistons melted to the heads.... yay!! LOL

Also looking at aluminum blocks, but they are way pricey, I'm going to stick with cast Iron, I think same with the heads.

 

It's just my opinion here and if I'm wrong someone let me know...but I find most crate engines to be way overpriced...anywhere from $2500-$6000USD. After the conversion and shipping, I'm thinking you could get a reputable local shop to build you one for much less money. Or even more money if you use your existing block.

 

Instead of shelling out crazy money for a brand name company engine, you should check out local performance garages, with machine shops and such.
You can usually get a pretty good deal. Like...
a 383 kit for 1800 bux, and a prepped block for 400 bux.
Alot cheaper than a crate engine. And there's more flexibility in your choice of internals used.

 

Exactly what I was trying to say.

 

Yeah, sounds like a plan too.. I'll check with my cousin, and see where he gets his engines built.

 

nathan...

did you ever think about going to the reman guys you see in the autotrader?? i know my dad had a motor from them ready to go and they were really good to go!!

if you need to know more pm me and ill get you the number!!

iroc2nv

 

I wanted to build it myself... I was planning to get a racing bottom end.. but they are pricey

 

Ok... here is what I am going to do... My cousin races street stock at Merritville Speedway.. he has an extra 4bolt main block.. he brought his race engine in for a freshen up... he said when he hears back from the shop and the block is free of cracks and major wear, he's gonna sell me the block for 100bux!!!!

So.. I will get it bored, honed, crank journals trued, and surface the decks.. oh, magnaflux before all that.. duh.. LOL.. then get it cleaned, and I will paint it RED then let it sit until I can afford to build the bottom end.

I want a light bottom end, all forged.. any ideas on some money saving? I am going to visit the machine shop my cous deals with.

 

Check this one out. Don't know them at all just found it on the net.

http://www.warriorengines.com/

 

WOW. Warriorengines advertising a low 9 sec. car, with 13:1 compression, nos and stock rods and crank.
Wonder how long it lasted.

 

Have you priced out one of these?? If so let me know too... I would love to have one maybe we can get a deal on 2... if that is possible for mini rams..

 

They are 1000 USD after you get all the goodies with it for installation.. I have changed my mind and will go with the LT1 intake converted by john to fit a normal SBC

 

$1000 US where is that?? ALl I have seen them for is about $1400US... I have looked at those LT1 intake conversions aswell. they look really nice.. but as the same as the mini ram NO EGR..

www.lt1intake.com

John who? I would be serious about getting one of those aswell..
if he is local that would be sweet... I just have to htink of soe way for emissions to pass...

 

92zeddar, a ltx cam to go with that intake will help you deal with the lack of egr. The overlap acts as an egr. An egr has 1 purpose really, recirculate exhaust gases back into the intake to reduce combustion chamber temps to keep NOx from forming. How you do it doesn't matter as long as you do it.

 

John is the guy that does the LT1 conversion intakes.... if you go to TPiS, they have complete pricing there on the Miniram II www.tpis.com the $1000 was in american funds.. the intake itself is 800 and change.. but you have to get stuff like fuel rails and that kinda garbage. The LT1 intake should get you similar results, and cheaper. John told me, if I had the AFR heads drilled for the LT1 intake, he'd knock $75 off the LT1 intake for me..

 

Slade1... I am using a ZZ4cam with it... if that helps ya at all..
I think I could think of some way to get the engine gas back into the intake...

 

Overlap can only be used as a qausi-EGR up to a certain point. Then the n0x values start to build. You could also run a divorced EGR setup but that would require some creativity.

 

Dont forget the custody battles either!