Hey all, I was curious as to what, if any, paints that are available that would work with headers. I know someone is going to say to go and get them coated. This is not an option at this time. I do however, would like them to look good for awhile. I don't know if the engine enamel sold at CT would be any good or not. Anyone have any insight on this, or any alternative ideas that are low cost.

 

VHT makes good stuff.... I don't want a flame war, so I won't tell you to wrap them. But my headers still look good.

 

There's header paint at CT... comes in silver, black and white, I think

 

BBQ paint at CT, has lasted all summer. A nice satin black finish. Spray it on, let it dry, then bake them in the bbq for about 20 minutes.

 

As Nathan and Cruz have mentioned, CT sells high temp paint at a relatively good price. They do have red as well (not that I can see anyone paint their headers red) but the red is not a true red...it's more orange, so stay away from that colour from CT.

As johny mentioned, VHT is good paint but highly overpriced (at $14-$18 a can). I used VHT on my runners and plenum, and the finished product was no more durable than the Crappy Tire stuff I've used. Save your money and just use the CT brand stuff.

 

Hey Kev. Make sure to get min. 1200F paint. Some auto parts stores may have 1500F. Not sure, but it is out there.
If they're new headers, try to strip the storage paint off before you paint them. It will last longer.
Martin.

 

Make sure NOT to get min 1200* , I used it and worked fine for about one month, then it started to show signs of wear, then flaking, and finally gone. I would try to get 1500* at least.

 

All right, then. I guess crappy tire it is.
Hey Martin, they are Kevin V's Flowtech headers, so they are slightly used. I figured that I would clean them up a bit with some emery cloth and then paint them. Make everything look nice.

 

Hi Kevin. Try not to make them to smooth. Maybe a fine steel wool would work better. Gives the paint something to stick to.

 

i would listen to jason's recommendation and his suggestion to bake them in the BBQ. by the VHT paint and then bake the headers in the BBQ. this will last better than any CT paint. i have used to CT paint on my flowtechs just cause i wanted a cheap, quick coating to throw on them while they were in the car, it stands up okay, but not real well. as Martin said, make sure you get all the old paint off first.

 

Most the stuff I know has probly already been said but here it is just incase...
Definately splurge on 1500 degree brand name paint. If it looks like crap after a month or two you arnt going to feel like taking them off to repaint them.
Ive heard of many people using bbq paint and being completely satisfied as well as vht.
Baking them in the bbq or oven will definately help. As far as I know its safe to use kitchen oven just run it hot for awhile after. Make sure you put them down so no major surface is touching anything and dont pick them up with cooking gloves or prongs till you let them cool off for a long time. After baking paint will be wet and easily smudgeable.
Like someone said, remove factory shipping paint. Thats not an option though... factory paint is only there to avoid scratches and nicks etc. Anything on top of it will just flake off when factory paint burns away.
Thats all I remember but if you want to be safe do search on the exhaust board, theres tons of info on it.
greg

 

Even after baking the parts in the oven, the VHT still flaked off in spots. Save your money and just get the CT stuff. It will stick fine as long as you prep it right. If you have a way of doing a quick sandblasting it will be even better.

 

My cheap old BBQ paint still looks the same. It only comes in one color though, BBQ satin black

 

thats what i used

 

It doesnt work.

 

What doesn't work? The CT header paint? BBQ paint? If not, then what?
I have seen Triggers manifolds and they look good. I had been wondering what he used on them.

 

Hey Kevin. Manifolds are made of cast iron and have a more porious surface. Something for the paint to grab.
Like Irocker said, if you can get them lightly sandblasted would be the best. But if not, don't worry about leaving the surface a little rough looking, with a heavy grit sandpaper or steel wool. The paint will smooth most of it out. Also, use 2 or 3 light coats of paint as opposed to 1 heavy coat. Letting each coat dry, before applying the next. If that first coat bonds good, they shouldn't peel. IMO.
Martin.

 

Yeah, that's what I kinda figured. I was going to use a heavy grit sandpaper and then paint them black. That should hide any imperfections. Thanks for the info, I appreciate that.