Rustproofing
Rustproofing
Any one on suggestions on this topic.Was thinking of getting something like Rustcheck,Diamondcote,etc.Car has never been winter driven but has been sprayed before.It has plugs in the rocker area.Still would like some sort of protection.Thanks.
I was planning on swapping carpet a while back with buddy (didn't work out in the end) and we were both going to hose down the floor with rust check stuff. Apparently thats a good way to keep from your floor roughting .. but its alot of work to take your carpet out..
Supreme Member
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 1,715
Likes: 0
From: Stouffville, Ontario
Car: 83WS6TA
Engine: ZZ4
Transmission: TH350C
Axle/Gears: 3:23
I get my 83TA oil sprayed just about every year and it's got no rust so I think it's been worth the $60 or $70 that it costs to do it.
Over the years I've had put it through a couple of winters when I could't afford a beater and even in the spring and fall, if it's your daily driver, the car can get soaked pretty good from time to time and that washs off the underspray.
So unless it only ever goes out in dry whether I'd say you should get it undersprayed and the doors and rockers injected etc.
Also, make sure the drain holes in the doors are clear so that they don't hold water.
I also got rid of the insulation on the inside of the hood and sprayed there as well.
I might be overdoing it a bit but I've tried to preserve this car through times when I didn't have any cash so that there'd still be something worth fixing up when I could afford it.
Over the years I've had put it through a couple of winters when I could't afford a beater and even in the spring and fall, if it's your daily driver, the car can get soaked pretty good from time to time and that washs off the underspray.
So unless it only ever goes out in dry whether I'd say you should get it undersprayed and the doors and rockers injected etc.
Also, make sure the drain holes in the doors are clear so that they don't hold water.
I also got rid of the insulation on the inside of the hood and sprayed there as well.
I might be overdoing it a bit but I've tried to preserve this car through times when I didn't have any cash so that there'd still be something worth fixing up when I could afford it.
Just a note: but 'hosing down your floor" with a liquid rust preventative (i.e. an oil-based substance) is not a good idea- it'll soak into the carpet and smell like crap for the next 20 years- and get on your shoes, pants and anything else that touches the carpet. The better idea here is to remove your carpet and paint the floor properly (and generously)- put the rust-check type stuff on the underside of the floorpan only.
The best bet for making sure that rust doesn't attack your vehicle includes what George suggested as well as painting everything that GM didn't (i.e. 3/4s of the underbody of every car) and re-touching it every year or two where paint has chipped off. Add to this a regular (i.e. annual) rust-preventative coating like a Rust-Check or whatever, and that's about all you can do. The problem with all the oil-based methods- leaking oil from crevices for 6 months after it's applied and that under-hood coating that gets all over you whenever you want to work on anything around the engine.
The best bet for making sure that rust doesn't attack your vehicle includes what George suggested as well as painting everything that GM didn't (i.e. 3/4s of the underbody of every car) and re-touching it every year or two where paint has chipped off. Add to this a regular (i.e. annual) rust-preventative coating like a Rust-Check or whatever, and that's about all you can do. The problem with all the oil-based methods- leaking oil from crevices for 6 months after it's applied and that under-hood coating that gets all over you whenever you want to work on anything around the engine.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post






