monte-ss

ok anyone have a pic or several to help me find the ESC bypass to time my car? mine isnt in the same place as your maro's since I put it in a monte, and I have no idea where the hell it is, I just got my car back together and am trying to get it tuned right. My GM book says just to bypass the A&B terminals to adjust the timing, it dosent seem to change anything.

Also on adjusting 1.6 RR's when you adjust stock rockers, when you adjust while the engine is running, its till it quits clacking then .5 - 1 full turn , when I try to go past the ticking with these 1.6's it kills the engine. and oh by the way its the stock cam for a 89 IROC.
thanks, I havent driven the car all winter and am now ready to smokem!! haha

Guest

What harness do you have in the car?

monte-ss

its the stock harness from an 89 iroc, everything in there is donated from that car and put in my monte

Guest

I figured you would say that.

The F-body harness has a one wire weather pack connector on top of the AC box where the blower motor is to disconnect the ESC. Its around 2-2.5' from where the distributor and other wires break out of the plastic wire harness cover. The wire itself is tan or brownish with a black stripe. Depends on how you routed your harness as to where its at. If you ran it in front of the AC box by the accumulator, its probably just past that point laying on the fenderwell. If you ran it underneath the AC box, I dont know what to tell you. Its either under the AC box or inside the car.

monte-ss

I used the stock connector that goes through the body, and tied all the extra under the AC box, guess in this case Ill just cut the brown/blk wire and put an extension in it with a sealed plug so I can disconnect it.

Swapmaster

For setting the rockers. With the engine off, spin the pushrod
with your fingers and run the nut down just until you can't spin
the pushrod anymore then turn the nut down 1/3rd of a turn
more.

monte-ss

did that, they were way too tight when I got the car running, so did the hot run adjustment, once I get the tick adjusted out trying to turn them anymore kills the engine

Swapmaster

Ok, reset them with the engine running. Take them down until
the click stops then go 1/4 turn more. When you take one down
the motor will start to miss because the valve is being held open
just a bit, but the lifter will bleed down and it will stop missing.
When you go the last 1/4 turn, GO SLOW, take it easy.

Put it together and dirve.

Swapmaster

Did you rebuild the short block with new pump and cam bearings?
What kind of oil pressure do you have at idle.

monte-ss

yeah did all that about a year, aprox 8000 miles, at idle its holding aprox 30 psi oil pressure

Swapmaster

Then try to get 1/2 turn max on them, turning them slowly to keep
it from trying to die. The lifters will bleed off and the engine will
smooth back out.

Another thing, if you have full rollers, you may get away with 1/4
or 1/3 turn. You don't want to go any further than you have to.
The deeper you go the more chance you have of floating a valve.

If the plunger is pressed a ways down into the lifter it has room
to pump up or move to the top of the lifter and hold the valve
open. If the plunger is only pressed a minimum into the lifter it will
have no room to pump up and float a valve.