If you're following the GMHTP Third-Gen Formula project car (Magnum TPI), you know we need help getting air into the motor. We take the induction off on the dyno and run an open throttle body and get 30 more horsepower at the rear wheels. When we put the stock induction back on, it goes away.

I have considered many options including: a functional ram-air hood (it ruins the lines of the car in my opinion), an SLP Third-Gen Firehawk dual snorkel set-up (battery needs to be relocated and there's probably not enought room with the big radiator and SuperRam intake), and custom ductwork squeezed between the engine and radiator on the passenger side (same path as stock, only larger). The last one I'm not too fond of because of all the bends and tight clearance between the radiator and throttle body--we'd probably give up some power on that one.

The car has been converted to speed density via a Gen 7 DFI so a MAF is not needed.

I was looking at an IROC/Z28 dual snorkel inlet but I don't know if it will clear the hood and latch mechanism. (The front bulkhead in front of the radiator would have to be cut for the filters, no big deal).

Another solution I'm looking at is leaning the radiator back with a custom radiator support and using a C4 or C5 intake over the front of the radiator and under the front bulkhead. The straight shot of air would be the least restrictive (IROC or Corvette solution) so that's what I'm leaning towards.

Has anybody worked through a similar solution that can give me some advice and possibly some pics? (If we go with your solution, we will give you credit in the magazine with a photo of your airway solution from your car.)

 

The C4 setup has been done, it was even in a magazine (Car Craft or Hot Rod I think) in letters from readers or something like that. I think TPIS was behind it, they leaned the radiator and condensor back and put the intake in front of the mess. I'd have to see that one, I have 2 birds and there is really no space.

The Iroc/Z28 intake wont work, it just doesnt come even close to conforming to the lines of the hood and radiator support. The area where the hood latch is also sits lower on a bird, so the filters would sit somewhere in the middle of the hood rather than under it.

SLP also has that cold air setup that runs 2 tubes to the passenger side, and you dont have to relocate the battery, just the charcoal canister IIRC.

 

Why not do like the hot rodders do? Just stick a rectangular K&N filter right on the throttle body. Sure, you'll suck a little hot air, but there won't be any restrictions and you won't need to fabricate a modified radiator support, etc.

http://speedfreaks.safeshopper.com/980/cat980.htm?16

 

C4/C5 woud become heatsoaked and would need to fabricate too much

IROC wont fit and wouldn't flow as much as you want either

HERE is your solution:

 

The solution provided directly above my post is the best solution. Run a 4" tube to the front corner tray (passenger side). Cut a slightly larger than 4" hole in the tray and fabricate a square mounting plate that can be bolted to the tray. The mounting plate should have a short 4" tube on each side. Drop the mounting plate onto the hole cut in the tray and bolt it in. Now join this with the 4" coming from the throttle body via some turbo tubing. Now mount a K&N under the tray. It gets a fresh feed of cool air and it works great.

Tim

 

Where did you get that tube fabricated? Looks sweet!

 

Ditto on the last two responses. Go custom. Not very hard and works great. I built a 3.5" air intake for my application a couple years ago for the 305 and I'm still using it on my current setup. Take a look here for details on how to build it: http://www.i-55.com/~davidlt/air_intake.htm

I've tested it a couple times at the track by removing the filter from the assembly and have never gained anything. Good luck!

 

Kevin and Johnny,
Go to the power adder board and look under my post "10.36 @ 130 on a 150 shot". It explains a little about my CAI. I`d post a link if I knew how

 

Realize the 88 snorkel comes out a little far. but the elbow on the end was purchased form Upfront Technologies. They have a bunch of nitrile conectors, including one that is shorter and will replace the 88 snorkle. The tube is 3.5 inch .065 wall 6061 t6. I have done the heat transfer on it and it would take aproximately 280 degrees F and no airflow through the tube to completely saturate the pipe to under hood temps. Here is the web site for the tubing it is excellent quality.
http://www.windevor.com/tubing.htm
here is the web site for the Nitrile tubing
http://www.upfronttechnologies.com/hardware.htm
The air filter is a holley powershot.
I can fab one up if you would like or possibly draw up the plans.
It would be helpfull if we had the measurment from the TB to the radiator. The black pipe solution above is a good solution. My only concern is heat saturation. My calculations for mild steel tubing did not look as nice as I would of liked. The powder coat might help alot! I did not really have any idea what kind of R value to give powder coat so I never did a saturation calc including it.

 

Here is a shot of the engine

 

I am running a very similar setup to what DAVECS1 has described but have dropped the filter below the pan. It was nothing a 4" hole saw couldn't take care of. I have also thought about modifying the plastic panel below there to scoop the air into the filter. My only concern is water and that section being pressurized.

You are taking a 30 HP hit with the stock intake? Wow!

 

Just go to the local junk yard and look for a plane jane camaro or firebird all or most of the 2.8 mpfi cars had the dual snorkle intakes that were the same as some of the tpi cars.

 

*sorry*

 

wont fit on a firebird

 

wow that is weird because the car i pulled my tilt steering colum out of was 85 firebird 2.8 mpfi car and it had that aircleaner setup on it if i'm not mistaken.

 

I like 89ProchargedROC solution. That's the best looking intake I've seen, and would be nice if someone would show detailed plans how to (didn't read the thread... hopefully it didn't say it in one of those)... but mainly cause I'd like to see how it does with that intake on there.

 

Heres what you need and its FOR SALE!!!

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=123076

 

Both of you guys have sweet cars! IROC57TPI, how do you make it? Do you have it for sale still? Also, is the cover over the old tpi air boxes from a carbed third gen? Let me know, thanks!

 

Well it doesn't belong to me...but its another members car/intake. His SN is Kandied91Z you may want to talk to him.

I know PFE in Chesterfield, MI did the cold air out of 4" stainless i believe. Their # 586-949-3400

 

That is a sweet intake! With the ceramic coating all bets are off. That will give an excellent R factor and insulate the stainless from becoming heatsoaked virtually for as long as the car is running.
If the Magnum guys are still viewing this,,,, that is your solution. If Kandied91Z views this message email me. I am highly interested. That intake makes mine look like a backyard hack job and I spent some serious time on it. Oh well if the car was perfect the first time around there would be nothing left to do

 

One more question. Were did you run the overflow tube?

 

I did the hole-saw-to-the-passenger-side-battery-tray trick too..... What I did was take 4" flexible metal ducting from Home Depot and have it pull air off the air dam and then routed it up through the area behind the foglight to the hole I made in the tray (actually four 3.5" holes in a square formation with the center removed...... I plan to make this a better opening when time permits). I then had a friend of mine that works with commercial HVAC ducting put together a sheetmetal box that could enclose my 9" K&N cone filter in that battery tray area (I can't remember the dimensions anymore but I can measure it up if anyone wants). So I have the 88-up MAF tubing from the TB to the air filter with a box built around it to seal it and the 4" ducting feeding into the bottom of the box through a hole in it. It is still a prototype at this point, but it seems to work quite well. I have plans to make it more permanent as it is still very crude looking. I also had tossed around ideas about making a duct to pull the air from that plastic piece of the RF ground effect.... It was mentioned above by somebody else as well. I think March makes a duct piece for Poopstangs that would work quite well and take a couple of bends out of my current setup.