Alright, I put on the SR, base, runners, etc...I got the car back together, deleted the EGR, and cold start. And the car is running like total crap. It cuts out on me all the time, and i can't get the kickdown right, where did you run the kickdown? It seems that when you give it full throttle it shifts out of gear into neutral and just revs. Also where did you run the injector wires, is it possible to run them up the middle of the intake?

I have new wires, cap, rotor, etc...I don't know what to do from here. I gave it 24 lbs inectors with 40 lbs of pressure. Does anyone have any idea why it would be like this...

Justin please help!

No i haven't gone through and burnt a prom for it yet, i will do that this weekend.

Did you remember to lay the kickdown cable in between the runners and the plenum before bolting the plenum on?

the cable was run on top of the drivers side fuel rail....but yes it is between the runners, i'm not trying to go around, i've got it hooked up, i just can't get the correct adjustment

Also, did you notice a performance gain at all?

Cause right now, i'm kinda ticked that i spent all of this money and i'm not seeing anything....it might even be worse....and i know i didn't do anything wrong when i did the heads....so unless fully tuning it and doing the computer makes a world of a difference, i am very unhappy with the SR.

Did you replace the throttle body as well? If so, did you adjust the TPS? How about the TV cable? Is it tight enough?
Also the SuperRam is prone to vacuum leaks. When I first installed mine I had several.

www.geocities.com/dzperf

I replaced the throttle body with a 58 mm. TV cable? is that the same as the kickdown? When you fixed the vacuum leaks did it make a huge difference?

i did adjust the tps, i can't seem to get the kickdown any tighter...

Yes, what you are refering to as the kick down cable is the TV (throttle valve) cable. It adjusts the transmission's shift points.
Press the button on the side of the cable mount, it looks like a half circle. with it pushed in, slide the plastic piece that comes out the front of it back as far as you can, it should go all the way. Now go floor the gas pedal and it will automatically pop out a few notches to where it needs to be. That's that.
Vacuum leaks can cause everything you are experiencing with the enigne.
Make sure there are no leaks and you will notice a world of difference. Like said above. Usually with the SR, there are always a few leaks the first time. Listen for hissing sounds while the engine is running.

By the way it's shifting it sounds like your TV is seriously out of adjustment. Try this, as per transfixleo's method:

To adjust the TV Cable skip the book method and do this: Press the 'D' shaped lock button on the adjuster and loosen the cable setting (The black housing that the metal cable is in will move forward). Now, have someone floor the gas pedal while you check to see if the throttle plate is open all the way. Usually they are off a little and will wiggle. Do whatever you have to do to get it open solid. Now, with the pedal still floored, press the 'D' button and pull the cable casing (the black tube) back as hard as you can (putting maximum tension on the metal cable) and release the button. You now have the engine, tranny and gas pedal all in sync at WOT. Mark the cable casing so if for some reason it gets moved you can know where to put it again. The problem with the 'self adjust method' is that it bends things and puts them permanently out of whack. It is also the full TV setting, which is theoretically what the GM method does.

This far & away the most accurate method of adjusting the TV cable.

Well I did a full head/cam/intake/exhaust change when I put my SR on. I went from 211rwhp/315ft/lb to 322rwhp/362 ft/lb before even tuning it.

I think a 58mm TB is way to big unless you have gone to a 383 or higher. Check out some of GM's 383 crate engines, they still have a 48mm TB on them.

Never saw a 383 TPI from GM, however the 502 Ram Jet has the 48mm TB.

I had some vacuum leak problems that led to the car searching for an idle.
I messed with the IAC and TPS until I could get it to idle around 1000rpm.
My car is tore down presently and I'm hoping to eliminate any vacuum leaks during reassembly.

Then I need to learn to burn PROMS for this beeyotch . . .

BTW - even with the vacuum leaks there was a HUGE difference in power!

SuperRams rule! :hail:

With the Super Ram, I saw a gain of .6 & 5 mph in the 1/4 over a basically a stock TPI that the only mods where a AFPR, airfoil, & ported plenum. Both intakes were on World Torquer heads & a Lunati Cam 218/224 with .489 lift, 112 CL & Edelbrock TES. BTW in two years of use I never had a vacuum leak. I did not use the plenum to runner gaskets or the top plate gasket, only Permatex Ultra Black RTV sealant.

Scorp508, I picked the TB up for $100, i couldn't pass that up, but from i understand, it shouldn't hurt me any, it's just overkill. That is one heck of a performance gain. I'm just very worried that i spent too much money for nothing. I just haven't seen much of an improvement yet, but it's early and i'm hoping things get much better.

I do have a vacuum leak i can hear hissing. Also, is it true that if you have exhaust leaks the knock sensor will pick it up and retard the timing? Cause i havne't had time to fix my leaks and they're pretty bad.

I'm getting codes 15, 33, 42, and 44. I'm confused on the 42, it will run fine, as in get plenty of spark and then it just seems to miss alot and barely run....but it doesn't feel like it misses at cruising speeds.

Rick, you never had any problems using silicone? Cause that sounds to be alot better than the gaskets we get with it.

do you still use the stock computer if so deleting the egr and the
extra fuel injector may couse you some cold startup problems
and whin hot if the computer does not detect the egr it may change your air fuel table becouse it thanks its open or closed.
i have not use my stock computer in a long wile but i remeber
having problems whin i removed stuff.

you can check out my simple site at:
http://darcom.org

Scorp,
That's awesome rwhp exspecially with a MAF setup. What all do you have done to your car? I probably could find out on corvetteforum.com but since you're the "king" of all posts I don't know where to start looking:hail: .

i just finished installing a superram on my 87 350 camaro and i experienced zero problems, not even a vacuum leak, in fact the idle actually stopped surging like it did before, furthermore the car feels a whole lot faster, i added svo 24 lb injectors with it also, i hope to take it to the track friday!

When I installed my superram I noticed a power loss below 3400 rpm but after that it pulled like never before. I thought I had lost power because of this but I found out from the g-tech that I gained most power at top-end. This is on the original long block and tranny with 193,000 miles. My other mods are on my website. The times on my sig are before the superram.

Danzig27,
If you are really only running 40psi for your fuel pressure that is way too low!! Try jacking it up to like 46-48 and see if it helps your cutting out problem. I am still dialing in my new setup, but I'm running 48 psi of pressure with my Super Ram and 24# SVO's.
I think I have a vac leak somewhere, but I don't have time to hunt it down now that I'm back at school.