I am putting my engine back together after doing head gaskets and headers, among other things. I am now putting the fuel lines/rails back together. But, I CANNOT find new fuel rail o-rings anywhere. The o-rings I am talking about are the ones that go on the end of the round tubes that run perpendicular to the fuel rails themselves. Napa doesn't have em, not AutoZone, not local mechanic shops, not Parts America, not even GM dealers. THe GM dealer told me the only way I can get those $2 parts is to spend almost $600 and get an entirely new fuel rail kit. No thanks! ANyone have any ideas? My car could be back together in a few hours once I find these stupid o-rings, but for now I'm stuck. Please help! Thank you!

 

GM sells an O-ring kit that might have those O-rings in it, I've never seen the kit myself though.

 

Tell the GM dealer to pluck his head out of his a$$ & order part# 17111696 or delco # 217-440. If he wants more than $22 for email me @ ricktpi@hotmail.com & I'll see if I can hook you up.

 

I just dug through an o-ring bin at the hardware store til I found some matches..

 

Thanks everyone for the help. I will try those part numbers that RickTPI sent tomorrow. If no luck, then I'll get back to you. Thanks for the help so far!

 

The GM dealer ordered me the kit yesterday. I will pick it up this afternoon and hope it has the right orings. He said it would cost about $27 which, at this point, is fine by me. Thanks for the help Rick TPI and everyone else too. I have one more question though. If any of you have headers you might be able to help. Since putting on Edelbrock headers and customizing the support bracket that connects to the back of the AC condensor, I am unable to line up the tube that comes off of the back of the air pump. ANy ideas on how I could bend that metal tube around that bracket, or get a new tube? ANy help would be great, cause I am really close to gettin my car back together, but this is holding me up. THanks.

 

What I usually suggest is getting the AIR tube elbow from an 87 or earlier AIR pump. It should bolt onto the newer AIR pump, but is just an elbow with a hose nipple on it. Then you can use rubber hose from the auto parts store and route it any way you want to.

The reason they used rubber hose on those older ones is because of the v-belt setup.. It had to be flexible so you could move the whole pump when you set the belt tension. Serpentines only had that tensioner as a movable part, so they could use hard line at the AIR pump.

If you don't want (or can't) take that route, you could use a 3/4" tubing bender to tweak it enough to clear your headers. Hopefully the tweaking won't shrink the distance you need too drastically (drop the solenoid housing down enough to interfere with something else).

Good luck

J

 

Thanks for the help. I am going to try to bend that tube. The rubber tube idea is one I considered, but I didn't know that a pre 87 tube would be a good solution. THe only problem is that I think this metal tube actually supports some of the weight of the solenoid housing. Do you think that will matter at all? If not I'll just get a pre 87 tube, and then find some way to support the housing a bit. Thanks again!