I have an 87 305 TPI that keeps setting off code 33 I have replaced the MAF 4 times in about 6 wks. I can not find any wirer damage or short everything seems to be fine for about a week then it starts hesitating at take off and the RPMS drop real low like it wants to shut down. after you get up to speed it will smooth out. when you shut the car off and go back out several hours later the SES light will be off. you can drive about 15 miles and it will come back on and start the whole cycle over again.
I have also replaced the burn off relay and fuel relay the oil/fuel presure sensor. I don't know what to do next PLEASE HELP
this car is driving me crazy. any info will be greatly appreciated.

 

Ahhh, Sounds like its time for a Speed Density Swap

 

Yea, dont fix the problem, just bypass it. Great idea.

I hope its one of the many non MAF non ecm related problems that can set that code, and it goes unfixed after you swap.

Instead, why dont you try cleaning the tb, and reset the TPS. Its not MAF or relay related, been there, done that.

 

Code 33 tests.

First check air ducts for cracks, holes and tighten clamps.

With the ignition off, unplug the MAF and apply power to ALDL terminal
"G". Check the red wire on the MAF connector for power. If no power,
verify 12v on relay connector orange and white/tan wires. Verify the
connector black/white wire is grounded. Verify black wire from MAF
connector terminal B to ECM connector A11 with an ohm meter. Verify
red wire from relay connector to MAF connector with an ohm meter.
If all is good replace MAF power relay.

Turn ignition on, Check MAF connector dark blue wire for 12v, if so,
unplug MAF burn off relay and check again. If so, check relay
connector black wire for ground. If so, the black wire is shorted to
ground or the ECM is bad. If not, replace MAF burn off relay.

If the dark blue wire at the start of the above test had no voltage,
check the MAF connector dark green wire with ignition on for a 5v
reference signal. If so, and all connectors are good, replace MAF.
If no 5v reference on dark green wire, verify it from the MAF connector
to ECM connector B12 with an ohm meter. If the wire is good replace the
ECM. If the dark green wire has 12v on it, turn ignition off and unplug
the ECM connectors. Turn ignition back on and check again, if so,
it is shorted to power somewhere. If not, and all connectors and
grounds are good replace ECM.

This test will also repair code 34

 

Isn't it funny that as soon as any coed relating to the MAF is set people immediatly start with the S/D swap time?
Seriously, if someone is having problems troubleshooting a MAF code, then I doubt that a sawp from MAF to S/D is within their abilities.

 

...and how many of those S/D cars sit squarely behind the tail lights of those MAF-Equipped LS6 Corvettes? Or LS1's? Or even LT4's? LT1's? TTA's? GN's? Anybody there? Yeah, ALL MAFs suck....

Yes, Max is right as usual. Fix the problem first, then worry about converting. It isn't rocket science, anyway.

Swap gave you an excellent test outline for checking power and wiring, and it would be a good idea to follow that first.

If that doesn't solve all your problems, check this thread:

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=148220

 

Lol, I was jokin Fellas

 

Its not the MAF burn off relay or the MAF power relay.

Been there like Vader and madmax.

Thats a great article, Vader
:hail:

Try working with the TPS voltage setting, thats how I got rid of my code 33.

 

...and I was just jerkin' your chain a little, too. WE know what kind of guy YOU are...

 

Thanks a million to everyone who replyed a new TPS set at .54
solved the problem. Thanks again