engine runs same w/MAF unplugged
engine runs same w/MAF unplugged
1 out of every 50 starts, or somewhere around there, i'll start it and it will bogg, cough, stumble, and backfire. It did it again yesturday so i revved it up and smoothed out the idle and it was fine. I unplugged the MAF sensor after i got it running good. I then started it and it ran BETTER with the MAF sensor unplugged. not a whole lot better, but it was a little more responsive. so my questions are 1)what causes the engine to boggle every 50 or so starts? and 2)why does it respond better with the MAF sensor unplugged? i know the the previous owner replaced the MAF sensor cuz it says 'bosch remanufactured MAF sensor' on it. what could it be? i didnt know if this was the appropriate board or not.
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From: decatur IL
Car: 86 iroc, 87 iroc, 89 iroc, 89 formula, 84 supra, 85 trans am
Engine: t\a motor 355 lt1 intake, t56,the works, 89 roc 427 sbc tt project
Transmission: to many to list
Axle/Gears: 9bolt 4:10 in the T/A
i would be willing to bet that the maf system is not working properly. what made it seem like it ran better with is unplugged was the fact that the motor had some warmth in it because you ran it a little. that is the most likelly cause of the more responsivness. i would check to make sure the maf sensor is still good. that is were i would start.
thanks
anthony
thanks
anthony
First thing to do is check for some codes. If you unplugged the MAF you'll be getting a code 34 and possibly another one.. so plug it back in, disconnect the battery for 15 mins, and then reconnect it and take it for a ride. You can learn how to check for codes in the FAQ at the main page. Do that and tell us what you're getting. Like as.kicker said, there's probably something wrong with the MAF system. Most likely one of the relays is bad, which is something like an $8-10 fix.
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From: decatur IL
Car: 86 iroc, 87 iroc, 89 iroc, 89 formula, 84 supra, 85 trans am
Engine: t\a motor 355 lt1 intake, t56,the works, 89 roc 427 sbc tt project
Transmission: to many to list
Axle/Gears: 9bolt 4:10 in the T/A
i just thought of somthing, if you have to put a new or used maf in, check to make sure that the maf burn off relay is working. if it dont work, crud accumalates on the wire and can cause it to burn through. when you shut your car off, you should here relays click on and then off 5-10 seconds after the car is shut off. you can here them inside the car because they are mounted on the fire wall by the wiper motor.
thanks
anthony
thanks
anthony
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Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,228
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From: Caldwell, NJ
Car: 88 IROC Convertible
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: Raptor 700
mine dose the same thing? what gives?? one day i was doing the homemade ram air in my car and i had to take off the air piece and noticed that the maf hadn't been plugged in for roughly a year since i bought the car, go figure. I plugged it in but never really noticed a difference in the way my car performs than when it wasn't plugged in. any thoughts on that?
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Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,056
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From: decatur IL
Car: 86 iroc, 87 iroc, 89 iroc, 89 formula, 84 supra, 85 trans am
Engine: t\a motor 355 lt1 intake, t56,the works, 89 roc 427 sbc tt project
Transmission: to many to list
Axle/Gears: 9bolt 4:10 in the T/A
there are preset charts that the comp runs off of when one or more of the sensors do not work. so the performance may or may not be diff with the sensor working or not, it just depends on what year and mods done.
thanks
anthony
thanks
anthony
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