Finally got the Acell base and will be installing it this weekend along with adjustable fuel pressure regulator. Any experiences with pitfalls to be avoided would be appreciated. This will be my biggest job so far on the car.

Thanks

 

Don't overtorque the bolts. Helicoils aren't fun. Also, don't use cheap bolts. Use something you can get a socket on (not stock bolts, either).

Make sure you mark your distributor location before you pull it so things are easier. Remember the o shaped gasket. Pick up some rtv for the front and back of the block where it connects to the intake, and run it between the gaskets. I've never used the rubber/cork gaskets, and I've never had a leak there.

Pick up some loctite for the intake bolts, too.

 

OK, I assume I can get the bolts at the auto parts store, What type? designation, a particular grade or somehting

I knew about marking the distributor, but what the heck is the o shaped gasket?

got rtv already and got a complete gasket set. Are you saying use the gaskets and the rtv?

So I definitely want to loctite the intake bolts eh?

thanks for your help

 

Spray some penetrating oil on all the bolts tonight, then some more just before your get started.

Stuff rags in the intake passages and distributor hole, and DON'T forget to remove them later. If you're prone to memory lapses, stick a post-it note on the new manifold immediately after the aforementioned stuffing so you'll see it when you get to the re-install part.

And be very careful around the plastic vacuum lines. They're brittle. It might even be good insurance to go pick up some extra vacuum line at the auto parts store so you don't have to make an extra trip when.. er...I mean if you break one.

Then fix your jury rigged throttle cable..

 

thanks for the advice, I have been know to forget a thing or two. On the throttel cable I checked the place where the other end of the cable comes into the accelerator pedal and there was about 1/4" play there but not enough for it to reach the hole in the TB bracket. I did notice with the pedal to the floor previously the TB was not completely open so maybe that little bit will give me 1 or 2 exrta HP eh? wheelstands for sure, haha. But I still have some picture hanging cable wrapped around the little metal cylinder on the end of the throttle cable and then threaded in the groove in the bracket and then wound several times througt the hole in the bracket. Severe jury rigging from Texas eh? But I dont know how else to do it. Can you buy a longer cable? or maybe the cables are longer and you cut them off when you buy them. Im going racing at tomorrow the way it is. I don't think it will break with the cable. jeez

 

Yeah, test fit your runners, injectors and fuel rail bolting everything together before you try and do it on the engine...
sometimes you need to modify and grind metal away to make things fit right. Best to do it off the engine.

 

Get permatex PSt thread sealer for the intake bolts and apply liberaly to all but the end 4 bolts to prevent the oil from "wicking" up the bolts and onto your nice new manifold.

You'll need bolts with a low profile head, especially if you have aftermarket runners. Notice how low the heads are on the torks bolts?

 

Where did you get yours at? When I bought my Accel base and runners, I also received a new bolt kit for them.
EDIT:

The more I think about it, mine may have only come with new runner bolts.

 

I bought it used on ebay for $330, it appears to be in excellent shape. Right now I just have the stock runners and plenum but will get superram runners and plenum soon if I can scrape up the money. I toyed with the idea of waiting but installing the superram plenum and runners on top of the already installed base shouldn't be to bad (famous last words). I have heard that the whole setup is a bit difficult to install. I don't really want to wait to install the base, it might be 6 months. Ive got a ported plenum and a 52mm throttle body, so i figured I would see some improvement now from just the base. Anyway I appreciate all the suggestions. This web site is great, its saved me a lot of headaches and trial and error.

 

Three tips:

On the gaskets (both sides), I smear a bit of silicone sealant with my finger around the water holes to ensure an excellent seal. This is not a bead of silicone, just what you can spread out on your fingertip.

For the front and rear valleys, I use the cork gaskets, but also alot of silicone sealant. Be sure to use sensor safe silicone sealant. Before placing the cork gaskets in place, be sure the top edge of the block is squeekee clean.

When you drop the intake manifold down, it should be lowered straight down into position. Do not do alot of manuvering after the intake has touched down. Get the intake lined up on top of the block and cylinder heads, so that a vertical drop will put the intake right into place.

Good luck!

 

I couldn't tell you a particular type of bolt. I had actually used some crappy ones and when rebuilding my engine, my mechanic put some good quality ones that you can get a socket on. Anything else just causes problems(for me, at least). ARP comes to mind. Make absolutely sure you don't get exhaust manifold bolts, they're too short and you'll end up using many helicoils.

There's an o shaped gasket underneath the distributor. Between it and the intake manifold.

Don't use the gaskets and rtv. I'd just use the rtv. I've got a bunch of those cork gaskets stuck to my garage door so I remember not to use them. I've got no basis for this, just that I've never had a leak.. and do you want pieces of cork in your engine?

Yes, loctite the bolts that go through the intake. You can use anti-seize on the upper intake bolts if you want, but I haven't ever had problems without it. I've also never used silicone on the gaskets and never had a leak.

Make sure it's really clean, like doc said. It's important or the silicone won't stick and it will leak. Read the silicone package to see how it cures.

Runners typically only come with the bolts that go to them, the base comes without hardware.

 

Hes absolutely right. When I installed my ACCEL base I had to do a little grinding to my runners(granted they are SLP). I also had to cut part of my coil bracket to make it fit, since where the distrbutor hold down goes was in a different spot. Also had to grind my EGR a little at the base so it would fit flush. You want to make sure everyhting fits nice and flush so when you put everything back together you don't get any surprise vaccum leaks.