What's the best way to remove the screens on my MAF without screwing it up? A replacement is like $200 so I want to be careful.

Also, what's the best way to open up the air box under the filters?

Car is an 88 IROC-Z with 5.0 TPI.

Thanks.

 

Tremo,

Before you whip out your tin snips and hacksaw, do a little homework. I'm not usually one to try to discourage anyone from experimentation, but so many others have done this in the past with less than satisfactory results, that you might want to do a little scientific study before you hack away.

First, you need to realize that your 305 requires less air intake than a 350. Then you need to calculate the amount of intake air actually required. After that, you can determine what componenets are the greatest restriction to the intake air flow on your engine. I've done this for my 305, and discovered that the MAF is way down the list. Unless you are going to run your 305 at 6,300 RPM or more, the MAF restriction is almost inconsequential. The air boxes are more restrictive. Worse yet is the plenum right behind the throttle body. Next is the 48mm throttle body itself. Then comes the MAF unit. If you take care of all the other restrictions, the MAF may become an issue. Until then, you might not want to risk the potential problems you could create by hacking out the MAF screens and heat sink fins.


https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=157108

 

Yo Vader,

Thanks for the informed response. I don't think I'd use tin snips or a hacksaw, but maybe a Dremel.

Reading all those posts there seemed to be a lot of people having trouble after doing the MAF work, but one comment that I saw more than once was where only the exit screen was removed, and the MAF wanted to have the inlet screen in place.

Regarding working on the air boxes, how about a little coaching on that? I haven't done that yet, but am looking into it. How do you get that assembly out of the car so you can cut open the bottom? Or should I just attack it with the Dremel while still in the car?

Thanks.

 

It's pretty easy to remove. The hardest part is removing the 'splash guard' that currently directs air from behind the foglights and into the radiator.

I see that you are in Placerville, there are a few of us down in Sac that I'm sure could help you. I live in Rancho Cordova myself.

 

Tremo,

You are getting plenty of air thru your MAF sensor, leave it alone.

Our MAF sensors will flow more air than a 305 needs. So unless you have ported heads, headers and other high flow items, leave your MAF sensor alone.

If you remove the screens, you will put the MAF table out of calibration.

 

you might be able to remove the rear screen with less potential for problems. however that rear screen is protecting your MAF against backfires. remove that screen and have a back fire and ur out $200+

 

OK OK OK, I'll leave the MAF screens alone.

Now I still want to mod those air boxes....